11Budlite

I'm not familiar with the Caterham Duratec sump setup but the black plug should be the drain, and the blue anodized plug I think would be where the finger filter is located. I assumed the finger filter was only on dry sump cars, but I guess I was wrong.

I ended up going with the Core 1-way with their recommended valving and spring rates, and the smallest front sway bar for the wide track kit.

My goals for this offseason: Lighter 13" wheels with new tires. Race wing stays. Adjustable suspension, stiffer springs, wide track. Tillet drivers seat. I hate having to use my nice leather seats for wet track days. Possibilitys: Half doors Decat pipe Future: Duratec???

Thanks Kitcat. I just weighed the stock rollbar at 12.6 lbs. The Petty strut weighs 6 lbs without hardware. The next time I remove the FIA rollbar I'll get a weight on that as well.

Good point, but actually I'm not sure. I usually fill up after every track day but I still have to calibrate the fuel gauge this winter, so I left it part way filled. It's probably about a half tank but will have to verify.

I wanted to give an update from my recent comparison between a stock 310S with all weather gear and my slightly modified 310 that I've been using for track days. The following parts were weighed on my digital shipping scale and were removed from my car for track days: Heater assy w/valve: 5.82 Side curtains: 7.2 Windshield w/center mirror: 9.76 Top: 5.0 (appr-weighed on car scales) Washer bottle: .72 Immobilizer and wiring: 1.14 Wiper motor/blades: 5.23 Knee panels: .70 The following part was added: Side impact bar w/padding: 7.74 The following parts were replaced with aftermarket: Battery - Banner: 14.6 dry, est 15.0 w/ acid Anti-Gravity ATX-12-HD: 3.08 Saves: 11.92 Flywheel/Clutch - Stock: 28.36 Premier Power: 14.88 Saves: 13.48 Wheels/Tires - Stock 14" Minilite/Avon ZT7: 26.4 Revolution 13x6.5"/Toyo R888R: 26.2 Saves: .2 x 4 = .8 Lug nuts (16) - Stock: 2.16 McGard spline drive: 1.16 Saves: 1.0 Rear light assy's (all) - Stock: 3.5 Lucas L594: 2.7 Saves: .8 Unknowns - I don't have the stock side mirror assy's to weigh but the aftermarket mirrors with aeroscreen probably adds a little bit of weight. I also didn't weigh the catch can which is probably a little heavier than the stock plastic one. I added a battery master switch which probably adds about 1 lb. The track day rollbar weighs more than the stock rollbar but I didn't want to remove it to weigh it separately. From research it seems to add 6.5-7 lbs. The biggest surprises to me were how heavy the stock lug nuts were, and how relatively light the stock wheel/tire combo is compared to the 13" Revolution/Toyo R888R combo. Total - Stock with all weather equipment: 1220 Track setup: 1171 The scales were not leveled accurately before dropping the car so the corner balance percentages are not accurate, but the total weight should be relatively accurate.

I'm pretty sure that's not a chronometric tach. I remember seeing a tach just like that advertised in some of the old British car magazines. It looks more like an aftermarket Smiths tach that you would install on a car that didn't come with a tach originally. I don't believe that's a telltale either, but more of an adjustable redline indicator which would make sense if it was to be used on multiple vehicles. Just my two cents.

Not a great photo, but a little bigger anyway. FIA roll bar with petty strut.

I too enjoyed Skip's posts and comments. I was impressed with his Caterham build with the Miata engine and gearbox. You can read more about it here: http://www.britishv8.org/Other/SkipCannon.htm RIP Skip...

Is there any handbrake hardware presently mounted on the passenger side below the dash? A 1993 Caterham should have that setup. I think the handbrake moved to the tunnel top in 1996. There's a drawing of the underdash handbrake mechanism on pg 109 of the Tony Weale book, "Lotus Seven: Restoration/Preparation/Maintenance".

Hi Randy. I removed my wiper assy and have attached a photo of the parts that I removed. The motor is clamped to a metal platform on the passenger side in front of the dash and has one connector. I made my scuttle top piece removable so the wiper assy was pretty easy to remove. The windshield washer bottle was originally in the boot which I thought was a ridiculous place to mount it. I moved it and the wiring/hose to the engine compartment. I've since removed it because I only use an aeroscreen now. You should be able to find the wiring connector and hose for the washer bottle near the fuel filler in the boot. There are multiple build guides in the USA7's library here: https://usa7s.net/ips/files/category/23-build-user-guides/ The wiper assy was preinstalled so you might not find detailed assy instructions.

That same car is already posted on USA7s:

Do you know what the fitting is on the rear line? As a minimum you're going to need banjo bolts, washers, and banjo brake adapters with the appropriate threads to match the valve and brake line. Should be available from Pegasus: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BRAKEBANJO https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SSBRAKEFITTING https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=COPPERCRUSH Have you taken the tunnel top off yet, and what are you going to do for the front line from the master cylinder to the valve? If you're going to modify the original line you're going to have to be able flare the tube and use the correct fitting. I've fabricated oil and fuel lines before but have never fabricated brake lines. Brake lines are much higher pressure and something you don't want to screw up, but with the correct flares and fittings it should be relatively straightforward.

There's once chapter consisting of 6 pages covering the Lotus Seven S1-S4 in this book.

That came out really nice!

I don't know how much the rules have changed, but this thread shows some detail of a E-Prod Caterham:

I'm presently building a dash for my son's Exocet. I agree with MV8's recommendation as far as Aluminum grades. I'm using 6061 for the relatively flat pieces and 3003 for any pieces that require bending/forming. I've been using .050" sheets and found them to be stiff enough if supported properly. I don't have a sheet metal brake so have had to utilize a vise and some angle iron for bending flanges. A pain in the neck but works okay. I use carbide tip hole saws in a drill press and at the correct RPM with lube they cut really nice leaving no rough edges. Clecos, rivnuts, step drills, also make the job easier. I also bought a shrinker/stretcher to play with and it's pretty handy. I had originally bent a 30" flange in 6061 and had a slight curvature along the length of the flange. A couple minutes with the shrinker and it was perfectly straight. Once it's all done it'll be finished in wrinkle black like BirkinBernie's dash.

Kevin - I sent you a message.

I believe the Vega wheels were all 4 x 4" PCD just like the MG Midget and AH Sprite. I remember 'borrowing' my mom's Vega wheels one time to try them out on my Midget.

That looks just like mine too. I haven't done anything to improve the appearance yet, but from research it seems like it can be polished. A fair amount of effort is involved though: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/266489-exhaust-polishing/

Yes I am Charlie. At my latest track day I had 2.5 hrs of track time. This was at NYST. There was no oil showing on the dipstick but there was a small amount in the can. There wasn't any oil misting in the engine compartment either. See attached photo. The main reasons for installing it on the scuttle was gaining a little height, much easier access to empty, and I wanted to attach it to the heater blanking plate since I removed the heater.

Not the greatest photos, but it seems to be the same car. These photos were taken at Lime Rock in the fall of 1981.