SR27.Seth

Loren- Did you finally find a 2.2L motor- if so, from where? Are you going supercharged or NA?

$500 for something that might work (Phantom Grip) or $800 for something that will work (Kaaz LSD) That is the question.............

Wow, Wow, and WOW! That, my friends, is impressive.

Great to finally see that girl on this forum. Make sure you get some proper spacers and holders to re-route those plug wires- I put the zip tie on just to keep them from resting on the headers! -Seth

Does Caterham make the exhaust from mild steel or stainless? Too bad about the ceramic coating- obviously that has to be well and truly sanded off in the area to be welded- then it will be the first area to rust if it is not stainless. If it is SS, make sure it is welded with stainless wire or TIG'd with the proper rod. For our learning experience could you post a photo of the crack?

Cosworth bolts eh? Cool. The girl-guy on the phone would only be correct if the holes in the crank are not blind, but drilled all the way through- all Japanese cranks have blind holes- don't know about your wacky motor. The only thing I ever apply to flywheel bolts is the proper torque!

I named our car in honour of him- hence the 27 of SR27, though number 12 had more wins and therefore was more famous- What was the last car he drove in which we saw his untimely demise? #27.

Allllllllllllllllberta! Welcome, fellow Canadian.

An amazing slide show! That guy has to be the ultimate hard core 7 owner! And what a great ad for Caterham!

1. Copper Greese. Those Brits and their copper grease! I think they spread it on their toast in the morning. Use any brand anti-sieze, I highly doubt you will be winter driving this thing anyway. 2. Torque Wrench. My two torque wrenches have been well cared for. Is it necessary to take these somewhere to have them calibrated? Should I calibrate them myself or don't worry about it? If you actually have a torque wrench- you are way ahead of the masses. 3. Fuel Cell. Despite some opposition from experts on this forum, I ordered the fuel cell. Any tips for installing it or keeping it working? I would like to put a glass filter in-line somewhere that I can inspect periodically for debris. Any tips for which filter to get and where to install it? Is your fuel cell foam filled? Gas composition seems to be changing every month with more and less ethanol, cleaners etc. There are issues with the foam breaking apart and sending it into your fuel pump and injectors. Please forget about the glass bowl- there is a reason those things were outlawed 30 years ago. Install two fuel filters- one before the pump (assuming itis external) and one after the pump. 4. Attaching Wings. The front cycle wings call for drilling holes in the fibreglass. One Seven owner recommended bonding fasteners to the wings and attaching them to the braces using cable ties. Problem is I have not been able to locate the fasteners. There is a British fastener called "BigHead" that looks perfect, but I cannot find it in the US. Under 160mph- 3m windshield urethane works brilliantly. At or near or over 160mph- Urethane plus 'truss head' screws. Thanks! :cheers: Your Welcome!

I am going to be in Waco from the 27th to the 30th picking up a miata, if the guy would be willing to bring the car to Waco I could look at it, or maybe I could drive down to Austin on that Fri or Sat, but you would have to be really nice to me. If it is only an ignition or weber issue I am sure it could be fixed quickly. If it is an engine/valve train problem, then at least I could diagnose it for you. PM me to let me know.

I guess I posted this a bit early- but the magazine is now on the newstand, here is the page. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1576552530_0-60SR27.jpg

Seth, do these weights include exhaust manifold? It includes cast iron exhaust manifolds with turbo and downpipe- that alone is between 35-45# (depending on the size of your turbo)

All weights taken by me- all 'prepped' to go into a Seven or some other conversion: Miata 1.6L Motor: 252# Trans 80# total 332# SR20DET Motor 375# (I know it is heavy for an all aluminum block, but the turbo and manifold weigh 32 lbs alone and the Crank weighs a bit over 35lbs!!- more than some v-8s, but how else would you expect a stock bottom end to take 600 horsies?) Trans (5spd) 90# total 470# CA18DET Motor 365# Trans 90# total 460# Toyota 22re Motor 311# Trans 125# total 436# MGB 1800 motor 365# trans (4O/D) 135# total 495#

And of course a cheaper and no less fun alternative (of which I just happen to own 2) is to buy an 85-89 'XR4ti', cut out the false C pillar, find proper front and rear bumpers and pull out that pinto engine (which should'nt be too underestimated) for whatever you can fit in the hole- I prefer a CA18DET, but with an engine bay that large the options are limitless! Then you have a Ford Sierra Cosworth (without the Cosworth) for around $6000. And I do drive the beater in the winter- tail hanging out everywhere!

http://www.0-60mag.com/ That should work

For those of you that haven't seen it yet- there is a great new magazine out there- and the latest issue not only has an article on 50 years of Lotus, but a nice write up on a certain BAM SR27. The magazine has a very european/british look about it (think EVO) and a broad range of coverage. check it out: www.0-60mag.com

Okay- I have to argue two answers- they always let me do that in school- #48- 2 correct answers- atomspheric pressure does push the air into the cylinder, but the intake valve is already open when the piston starts to lower - of course the piston is 'sucking' air into the engine! I think my answer is more correct. #47- bad diagram, what is the fixed point on this contraption? if I had known that the rod was fixed I would say the balls will move in a vertical as well as outward direction- but I thought the hub was fixed- therefore the rod would move vertically but the balls, attached to the hub, would not. then i got two basic pulley questions wrong. 92% (In my world of physics its a 96%)

You V8 guys are all the same- living life 'a quarter mile at a time' First off- they do high 10's just by turning up the boost. But the car was not built for 0-100 straight line speed, just drive one and you'll see what I am talking about- our 260 hp SR27 will whip this car up until 180kph- when gravity starts to have much less of an effect than air flow- from 180-300kph the skyline accelerates with the same enthusiasm as it has for the the first 100, that is what makes it a Supercar. (and the fact that the suspension, hydraulic awd control and 4 wheel steer make it incredibly poised at those speeds) I'll see if I can post up some pics

I know this is going to get a few disagreements, but raising front spring rates will not reduce weight transfer under braking. Secondly- the spring rate thing- I could take two cars of the exact same weight and general suspension configuration and depending on where I mount the springs I could have the same wheel rate with a 100 in/lb spring or a 600 in/lb spring, so comparing spring rates from LSIS to LSIS is meaningless, seriously, meaningless.

Wait a second- is somebody planning to either A: Drift a Seven or B: Rally a Seven? Because those are the only two reasons I can see for buying a hydraulic hand brake.

I know this car well and it is one of the cleanest and original R32 Skylines around- I don't know if you can plate it in the US of A but it would make a great track car. I would say the actual value of the car is $17000-$19000 (here in Montreal where Skylines are as common as Sevens in England) but the owner is starting a new business venture and needs as much capital as he can get.: BTW- it is charcoal grey Yes, my baby has to go and time is running out (1989 GTR, 118.XXXkm). I am willing to let her go at 14,000$ with two sets of shocks (quantum adjustable and stock GTR), Clarion 5 inch CD/DVD payer, Weds racing wheels, a new MOMO mod.08 deep dish steering wheel (still in the box) and a brand new set of Yokohama's (not even on the car - the Yoko's on it are still over 50% good). Other then that the car is stock. Clean inside out. Mint interior (scratch on steering - perfect condition stock bucket seats). Close to perfect exterior (one scratch and small hood chips). Engine is stock and was tuned at Teknica Industries a couple of month ago to be extra reliable (all seals, gaskets, belts, hoses change + radiator and battery - no mods). Engine starts, idles and run perfect. Car was also inspected by the SAAQ. Bottom line the car is in awesome condition and all the hard work and money to get it as is has already ben done. I did everything I could to keep it, but new priorities obligates me to get rid of it asap. Now all she needs is a new good home. I can drive the car anywhere from Eastern Canada to West of Toronto. If anyone wants more information about the car don't hesitate to call me at 514-944-2823 or pm me Alex Crapault

Sounds like everyone else has had their guess so I will throw mine in too- First- what makes a front wheel hop off the ground is the stored energy that is thrown into the front components under heavy braking, remember- the coil springs are not the only springs on your car: the tires act as springs as do any front suspension members under bending load. The weight transfer that occurs loads up all of these springs. So where does the energy go?- Well, the coil spring energy should be absorbed by the shock travel- the key is travel- if a shock is not extending or compressing then it may as well be a block of steel. So measure your shock travel with the simple zip-tie method and make sure your not bottoming out or just so stiff that the shock is not traveling. Another question is the 'line' of the shock: is the energy being transfered properly from the center of the tire through the upright and to the bottom shock mount? if anything is flexing (or if the geometry is skewed) then the shock turns into a strut (unless it is mounted on spherical bearings) and you will be creating force and therefore friction between the two halves of the shock- not good. As for the unsprung masses- what can you do- spend a million dollars on 10lb magnesium 17" wheels plus 2 piece carbon rotors and titanium piston calipers and of course play with tire pressures!

Le lumiere est par Hella- cest le meme choses sur le Saleen S2 et le Pagani Zonda.

The engines were mechanical parts only- no wiring, so not good for a swap unless you have a current motor.