SR27.Seth

For some reason a bunch of S2000 motors in various conditions and prices have popped up here in Montreal- I know of a $500 parts motor, a complete $1700 motorand tranny and a built turbo ready $2300 motor. Seems pretty cheap to me.

Actually I think that is the latest MK kit- just judging by the fact that it is Sierra based- the body is the same stuff though.

I think this is especially important for us (us meaning this entire LSIS world) To some extent you are all car developers- there isn't one locost to Caterham out there that didn't benefit from at least one owner tweak. So we can learn, for better or worse from each others cars. For me- being behind the wheel of any supercar (which to me includes Sevens) is being in both a classroom and a church pew- What I mean is that I learn soooooo much and driving is as close to religion as I can get. So my new slogan is: 'Be Free With Your Key'

I think I would look at what information the ECU is reading before trying to change cold start maps. EG: Does the resistance in the coolant temp sensor (measured at the ECU) match the spec? Go through all of your sensors (computer inputs) and compare readings (be it voltage signal, wave, or resistance) to a reference, before you try to change any mapping. Remember an ECU is only a computer: GIGO.

I'm sorry Mr. Moderator- but is there not a Wheels and Tires section to this forum?

I don't think so- I saw this car being finished off at the WCM 'headquarters' when I was looking into buying an S2K kit- I never liked the look of the XR7, but this car is more beautiful in real life than it is in those photos. The car was truly customized to the owners specs- a lot of one off fabrication, plus the Honda motor was BRAND NEW. I can garauntee that to build this would cost you at least what he is asking for it! Honestly I think the price is a steal. Just my two cents

With no sidescreens or top, and only sunglasses, ear plugs and a hat (if it will stay on your head): How fast can you Comfortably cruise on the highway or a nice deserted back road? (let's pretend that we all live in a state with no speed limits) I'll start; up to 130 kph (80mph) I can cruise comfortably- the RPM is at 3100, 0 psi boost, hair blowing in the breeze- forget wearing a hat- it would be long gone already. 140-160 kph things start to get uncomfortable- seat belt ends flap you in the face, glasses start to float off your head. 160+ forget comfort- As you are focusing on the road whatever glasses you try to wear float off your face and whatever you have resting in the co-driver seat starts to float- like magic (I am not exagerating about this) Is this similar in all LSIS's?

Tom- They are called CS-16 from Panasport. They are dimensionally made to our spec in Japan you need to know all of your caliper clearances, offset, bolt pattern and hub center diameter. A set of four 16" runs about $2200-2300- by the time you include the shipping. One piece wheels are half that price- but only one offset is usually available. I think a set of their rally-spec wheels would look nice on your Cossie!

The saddest part is that his 5 year old son was with him, atleast when Mark Lovell and Roger Freeman died it was doing what they loved (rallying) Its a crazy crazy world and as Smokey used to say "Live life like today is your last." :blueangel: :blueangel: :blueangel: :blueangel: :blueangel: :blueangel: :blueangel: :blueangel:

The funny thing is- I think they are serious!

Thats pretty cool- I love the revs you can get out of that rotary! Ask Pfeiffer to post that video of him drifting his 7, I think that would blow some minds on this forum!

Wow!- I had no Idea the Caterham box was soooo close ratio!- 95% of RWD gear boxes are 4th 1:1, and I have only ever seen one or 2 5th gear 1:1, Even in Ford Motorsports infamous 7 speed the 4th was .955 and 5,6,7 were all overdrive. But a 6th 1:1- Boggles the mind. Does anyone know the other ratios? ...it's a permanent dyno install. Sorry to offend Al, at first viewing I thought the car was in the back of a big trailer- upon a second look I now see that it is in a garage

Sorry Bob, I pulled all of my diffs apart and they are all 3.64's.

Kitcat- Don't be so quick to add more fluid- You need to rebuild or replace either the clutch master or clutch slave cylinder (not a bad Idea to replace or rebuild them together) then replace with new fluid- and the best thing about bleeding a clutch system is that gravity does all the work- just pour in the top of master, open bleeder at slave and wait- as soon as the fluid flows with no air out of the bleeder screw it up and your set!

Bob- I need to pull them apart anyway to check bearings etc.. I am pretty busy though, so give me a few days- maybe on the weekend

I may- I know I have a 3.9- I'll try to pull the other 3 apart and check the ratios.

My requirement for our car was to be able to clear a piece of 4x4" (so 3.5") wood with every part (especially the oil pan!) For a track car I would set it lower.

As some of you know, the Orange SR27 of Paul and Dino's had a very similar problem at VIR during the UTCC. Unfortunatly they pulled off the hood and the nose, which caused it to over heat even more (the nose on our car is the radiator shroud. At the autocross during the 7/7/7 event, even with the car doing double time with 2 drivers it ran quite an acceptable temp. (for that engine 100-110 deg C) with the bonnet off. The thing about a turbo under the hood of the car is that, uncoated and under boost conditions, it releases a tremendous amount of heat- think of a chunk of large chunk of metal at 800-900 deg. sitting in your engine compartment. As we all learned in elementary school- that heat rises and sits at the top of the engine compartment- slowly coming out of the vents, unless it is pushed out of the vents. That hot, stagnant area then blocks the other hot air that should be coming off of the radiator and up and out of the hood vents. If you look at production turbo cars (WRX, Silvia, Skyline) the hot radiator air gets pushed (or pulled with massive CFM fans) out of the BOTTOM of the engine compartment. That does not seem to work on a Seven body. SO: Get the air moving more under the hood with a second fan or a stronger fan on the Rad (Dino switched out the stock 800cfm fan for a 2300 cfm fan and put a fan to blow the hot air off of the turbo out of the side pod!- big difference) And get the turbine housing, exhaust manifold and downpipe coated- but caveat: regular header coatings will not withstand the heat put out by a turbo. Double layer 'jet aircraft quality' type coatings are the best- just expensive.

I think you have a Ford T-9 transmission in your Caterham- My experience with that transmission is that the more it wears internally the easier it is to get it into gear! I had a high mileage XR4ti that I could up shift and down shift into any gear with no clutch at all. You say the clutch releases just off the floor- that tells me that the clutch diaphram may not be releasing fully when the clutch is depressed- Clutch cables stretch over time so start with that adjustment so that the clutch releases about half way down the pedal throw.

First image is my current project for myself- Ford Sierra (actually an XR4ti changed to sierra specs) Rally car, still in the strip and seam weld stages Second image is a 240sx race car with a rwd VQ30 motor, first of it's kind in Canada. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/666275558_PICT8012.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/719343312_PICT7907.JPG

Kieth- That first 'miata' looks pretty awesome- let's hear more about that one!

I have to be the one to break the bad news to you: After getting your stalker sorted and learning to drive it- those other cars in your collection are all going to feel like your driving Miss Daisy in a heavy proverbial bucket of bolts- unless you have some spiritual connection with that XKE, I would stop the restoration in it's tracks- sell it on e-bay and put the money into your '7'- I am speaking from the experience of spending a few years (and $1000's of other peoples money) modifying perfectly good E-types to try to get them to handle 1/10th, no 1/20th as good as any 7. Personaly- I would keep the Alfa (for those cold days)- sell the rest. Are you building the Stalker or buying it 'ret to go'?