Brightonuk

As I said the hole concept will not work as there is a structural frame bar right in front of the plug Even with an allen cut down to a nub it is near impossible to get to. I am going to wait on this and think if I wanna frustrate myself by attempting this, the car is running great and the oil change was just..........................well because I thought it was a good idea (and I purchased the MT-90) Thanks Croc that looks like a option if I commit .

Thanks Mate saved me a lot of grief cause by ignorance going down the wrong path but is a bummer, I thought pull the lever fill from there it seemed so easy. Your suggestion is for a future project. Staying with this issue Plan #2 was cut down an Allen wrench and try to fit it into the nut but even if I get the plug out I do not see a way of getting the oil into the case. Another question should I apply any grease to the shifter linkages?

The drill a hole concept does not work for we as the frame rail is dead center over the plug So if the car is level should I at least see oil in the housing as some have said they drain the oil from the top but I do see any sign of oil or how to access any oil that may be sitting in the housing. I am sure I am missing something here

I was looking to change out the gear oil in my T9 using Redline MT-90 and as suggested going in via the top of the gear lever On removing the cover I can see the bowl is dry? How much oil does should I add? Thanks

Ok lol

Never thought of the third brake light issue gonna have to read this a couple of times (now I gotta Google Rube Goldberg). The one wire is the way to go for a rewire, from multiple runs to a one wire option is awesome but as I have the original wiring already run to the fuse box it might just be easier to use the "light out" and "brake" separate. As for the additional fuse box to clarify I was going to use one of the aux out via a relay, that way I will not trip the M-Unit and won't have problems from any components running from the fuse block. As you have nailed this I appreciate any input and you answering questions and please jump in if you see any issues with my ideas.

4 Sale set of Federal 595s

I think the tire is just to hard for the weight of the car, after a day at the track on toyos I can see I have been on a track by the scuffing but the Federals look unscathed. I am going to try again (practicing trail braking) and see if it is just my inexperience or they are crap for the track

Jeff What is the amp draw for the starter as in your schematic you don't use a relay so I assume the 2 x 15 amp from the outputs is enough? Did you opt for the one wire tail/brake light or did you wire the taillights via the light output?

The wife came up with the solution using super glue and the stuff woman use to fix their nails. It is like a thin cloth that she cut into two thin strips, wrapped around the screw threads which in turn reinforces the whole screw thread. Seems to have work a treat (-:

Great vid What I would give for a road with a curve

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-westfield-se/ What seats are in the Westy

Thanks Guys I think we sometimes forget the work that goes into hosting a website, your work is sincerely appreciated :grouphug:

Cheers Andy

Can you buy just the inner white mounting plate as the two screw inserts on mine have cracked so I cant tighten the lens In addition what is this?

Merry Christmas to fellow members from Chilly Florida (It was so cold last night we had to turn on the fake fire)

HI Jeff Another question Should I run the M-Unit via the aux fuse box or run the fuse box from one of the aux out from the M-Unit? As I will be connecting various as yet undecided circuits directly to the fuse block eg fan, fuel pump etc. my thinking is I should run the M-Unit from the fuse box via a 30amp fuse, that way I don't need to use relays for any circuits that are not run from the M-Unit, fan fuel pump etc as they will pull from the fuse block which in turn is connected directly to the battery (via the appropriate fuses). Any thoughts? As a side not I also contacted Motogadget regarding a phone override: Hello, you can switch ON the mo.unit any time with a latching switch leading +12V to the input LOCK. We recommend to have this kind of backup system always beside the keyless-go with the smartphone/app. Which I think is how you wired your unit

Like I said in the video these are fine for the street, but living in Florida there are not many corners so understeer is not an issue we just go straight all the time. and yes they will last a long time. In fact all that understeer on the track did not seem to take off any rubber so these may well last longer than the car. Bottom line the 595s are for the budget conscious (like Me) they are cheap and street usable, the ride quality is a little worse than my Bentley Bentayga but then again it's a Caterham on $60 tires :driving:.

Crap just got an email from YouTube on a copyright infringement. My video has been blocked in Cuba, Iran, North Korea, Syria

Got to try the Federals on a dry track knowing they were not going to be as good as Toyos but hoping they would offer an cheaper alternative to tear up on the track.....

I am in the middle of rewiring the car with a an M-Unit and remote wheel buttons so it means constantly removing and putting the scuttle back on. (She is also my daily driver more on that experience on another post) After reading how some members replaced the rivets holding the scuttle to the firewall with screws I did the same and used m3 rivnuts with SS torx screws, the trouble was M3's are tiny, its was time consuming using an Allen wrench on each one. With the the constant tightening, removing the socket head started to round out in some so I had to cut a slot and use a screwdriver to remove them. My solution was to use a larger M4 knurled thumb screw and it makes things a little easier. Still a PIA removing the other bolts this is makes things less time consuming.

I am working on it will let you know if they respond I told them we will have a minimum of 10 orders so hopefully that will peak their interest

Jeff If you don't have your phone is there a bypass to start the car or do you have to have the phone?

Tried reaching out to them on FB but no response so far shame as I think we could get a group buy for this item

https://www.sevensandclassics.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/SC-Upgrade-Options-V7-2021.pdf