Vovchandr

I disagree. It's "quirks and features" which a 7 has plenty. He did an Atom not too long ago and 7 has far more interesting tid bits to cover due to its history. Use of wood in assembly, caravan tail lights etc. Watching him drive it with an aero screen wouldn't be boring either.

California forum is dead I've gotten a hold of him and I'm on his radar but he doesn't fly our to NE that often. Still looking for somebody in SoCal

I just wish there was an easy direct way to order Avon's. I went with Toyos 888R's and they did their job but I was never happy with the sizing. Front's had too large of a side wall and the rears were too narrow with too small of a side wall. Max available is 225 while Avon's were 245's for the back. I'm due for a new set of tires (after only one season?! 3 track days must have killed them) and trying to find easy ways to get back into Avon's without having to order from England.

Jim, I considered it. Unfortunately closest one is over an hour + away. Meaning to pick it up > back home to hook > track > home to unhook> return truck > back home adds about ~5 hours worth of work/driving making it an ineffective option. Car has proven to do about ~2000 pounds so far with basic setup on my smaller steel enclosed and 3 bikes in it without brakes on single axle. Aluminum trailer (2000lbs) and Caterham (1500lbs) and other misc shouldn't be much over 4000lbs. I have good confidence it should be able to handle it reasonably well after I'm done with the setup. Again stock rating on the XC70 is 3300, same chassis XC90 is rated for 5000. Only wild card is pure physics of a huge/tall/long trailer behind my car. (it has extra tall ceilings too, luckily V nose and slant nose). Croc, I couldn't find any references to Steve's XC70 on the forum or any pictures.

Hm. I have been waiting on a Black Friday sale for this model Tekonsha 90195 P3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P17NXQ/ref=psdc_15737671_t1_B007O5GXOG for sometime where I expect it to be about $100 according to the price history. I'm not familiar with your model at all or whether RF is an avenue I'd rather pursue and what the advantages would be. I do also have LED lights on the trailer as well.

Yeah I'm happy I did it but I'm well aware of the consequences of having another trailer. It's just like having another project car in a way. This makes it my third trailer. I have an open 6x10 for misc jobs, enclosed 6x10 for my race bike and other misc jobs/storage and now a 7.5x18 aluminum for the Caterham. Right now engineering a way to have my XC70 to be comfortable towing upto 5000lbs. Rated for 3300lbs but with proper upgrades it should be fine for 5k and thats where I draw the line. (Brake control, weight distribution, class III, R brembo brakes, R motor, other misc etc). After looking into it for a long while the math checks out. We shall see if practice does (car is still relatively light and aerodynamic profile is different than regular tow rigs). Really can't/won't justify having another vehicle for the ~10 times a year I need to tow things. It won't be ideal but it should do the job.

Penciled in. This time I'm not driving it for sanity's sake. I've joined all you fancy enclosed trailer folks.

I added the large pictures again after the edit as a test to see if they are dynamic and get resized to screen. They do so I left them. I struggled with the upload/attachment limit for a while as the photos are ~14mb in jpeg and I got them down to about 1.5 in the end. Also amusing you say that as I haven't touched the suspension/height settings. :leaving:

End of season Edit: not sure why the pictures are coming through as tiny attachments until you click

Unfortunately my "7'sDate.com" venture hasn't been very successful so far

Told you to go this site at the light and hopefully you'll see this. Didn't know there was another 7 in the area!

Cold weather conversion done. It's toasty now! http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16077&stc=1 http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16078&stc=1 Swapped badge over

There's this "thing" https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-lotus-super-seven/

Pay for shipping of me and or the car and I'm in! I will find myself in SoCal within the next 6 months but most certainly without the 7 sadly.

This should resonate well with the crowd here [video=youtube;mUO5bp-wyLU]

A shot from a recent cars and coffee http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16064&stc=1

Very well said across the board. I've had a double whammy of scratching my head about the previous builders and owners decisions. With that said, unless you're buying brand new beware that with our cars it's just natural to have certain problems as seen from this thread. Even under optimal conditions they are hand built in England, neither one of those two aspects is particularly known for reliability, compared to lets say the expectation we would have with like a new Accord. Realistically ours get assembled likely through one of the few dealerships in the states. Each one can be hit or miss depending on the year and how familiar the people who assembled them were with the cars at the time. Once they get bought they see few miles on average and more track days or hard driving per mile than an average car. Further compounding on that, once the car does need service or work, wherever it gets taken to with few exceptions will actually know how to work on the car or where to source parts. Which can lead to guess work and short cuts. Further causing issues with reliability. Have realistic expectations going into it and expect the unexpected. :driving: Honestly for me it's half the fun to always be tinkering with it and taking it out on "shake down" runs following the said tinkering to see if the fenders stay on this time...

I went across the country for my 7. It was a forum post but might as well have been a craigslist listing. (it was also listed on some racecarsforsale website). Low posting member with little communication. Lucky for me I had a friend that lived out in the area and did a preliminary overlook for the car before I flew out, took pictures etc. The car still had lots of issues between original build and whatever the previous owners did. Took close to a year to get original issues sorted out, but the price was worth it and in my history of cars I expected it needing work, so no regrets on my end. As AB said, having somebody local come out and check it out first can save everybody a lot of wasted time, particularly if you have no reason to trust the seller. You'd be surprised at how many people are willing to dedicate a day to check out a car for somebody else, especially if it's something they are passionate about. When I was buying my first bike over a decade ago and the forums were much stronger, I actually had two volunteers to check out a bike for me that was about 11 hours away before I made my trip. The pre-inspection can eliminate a lot of guess work and make you feel a lot better about committing a trip without having your stomach in knots about the unknown.

http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16023&stc=1

Passenger seat sits almost as far back as possible and with windshield and no doors it's in a bad buffering spot and with doors the draft on head gets to you. I've heard people reversing/flipping the rails over to fix this. When I tried it, it seemed perfect and would have moved forward about 4 inches. However I was at least 1 inch away from the holes lining up in the floor and the seat couldn't go forward anymore as it was being squeezed by the frame channel. Is there something I'm missing? Is this trick more common for the SV chassis?

For those of us who actually have to put our cars away in the winter, it gives us a good opportunity to plan and procrastinate on upgrades to the car while it's down/away. I plan to * rewire the headlights to have a disconnect plug and use the new front "lower" mount points that site closer to the front. * have the 620R nosecone painted and mounted * swap the rollcage from old style single diagonal to new style double diagonal * lower the nose so I stop having the raised rake as I was told I have during the NJMP day * get the tuning software issues figured out etc etc :auto:

Cold temp "conversion" complete just in time. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16020&stc=1 http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16021&stc=1 Not pictured but had my first outing with the half hood too

Lots of things seem.. off with that one. Was that motor a cable clutch?

So far summary: Problem discovered - clutch spring retainer failure due to metal fatigue/defect. OEM Ford clutch T9 transmission leaks fixed in the front and top of casing and shifter housing (time will tell but old gaskets/seals were bad) Sequential shifter potentiometer housing was pretty destroyed and damaged. No direct replacement available so seals up as best as possible and put back in place. Works so far (fingers crossed) Rear main seal replaced as it appeared there was a leak there too TWM throttle bodies had 3 out of 4 runners fail by the gasket due to metal fatigue after being bored out by original builder/contractor. Manifold welded and machined back down to a flat surface. New single gasket made to replace individual runner o-rings Existing throttle body velocity stacks were a disaster. None sat flat and one of the runners was hammered down to fit under the hood and wasn't round at all. All replaced with shorter but uniform stacks Existing AIT sensor moved out of the velocity stack where it impeded air flow and new mount made on the new velocity stack housing Existing Zetec Centerforce clutch (came with the car) was confirmed to fit a Zetec before install, was actually for a different configuration Zetec than I had It was for a bigger flywheel configuration. New flywheel matched Existing starter did not work with new flywheel, a new one had to be matched (didn't quite reach for engagement) Existing slave cylinder bleeder configuration was poor, so remote bleeder hose was bought and adapted to fit. Now it will no longer bleed directly back into the bellhousing. While the console and passenger seat were out I rotated the passenger seat mounts to move the seat more forward out of the turbulent air flow when the windshield is on A brief test of MPG yesterday while breaking in the clutch, shattered the optimistic hopes that the ITB issues/air leaks caused the poor MPG. Went about 13 miles on one gallon all highway. Weak test, but also very bleak results. Sourcing parts and figuring out the different configuration Zetecs was not fun, but I'm glad I did it as now I know a bit more about the car for future reference.

Current update: Car runs! Who knew one little spring would be such a PITA? After lots of troubleshooting, finding new problems, fixing old problems and mix and matching parts from different Zetecs car is together and I'm going through the period of breaking in the clutch. Not sure yet if the clutch is slipping but it certainly feels "off"/weak on engage. I'm giving it benefit of the doubt through the break in process but not optimistic yet that everything is kosher and it will hold full power. Staying off getting too on the throttle for a few hundred miles.