Vovchandr

As some of you know, my glued on fenders (Sikaflex) have failed on last NJMP 7's event. Even though they drove down to NJ just fine for hours from NY, I suspect the increased temperature of hot days and track have put the glue to the limit and failed. Ironically I was prepared and I brought my bolted on spares as well. Swapped after the fail and then the bolt inserts failed next... Either way I had to wait until temperature was warm enough to reapply the adhesive. Maybe this thread will help somebody in the future as this is a pretty common subject within the 7s community. Sikaflex is generally accepted as the top go-to adhesive but it comes in many varieties as well as different ways of application. I don't glue the fenders directly on as I like the ability to take them off for service issues and other parts swapping. So I ordered the big head fasteners. I originally used Sikaflex 292i (white). One side held just fine, the other fender 3 out of the 4 have failed to adhere to the stainless Bigheads. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F8VYMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This time around not only am I switching to Sikaflex 221 (black) I'm also using the Sika recommended primer on the one side. (Sika primer 207, pretty expensive for such a little bottle!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW5LWHA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Black-Primer-207-Polyurethane-Adhesives/dp/B0737DN7CY The primer should help adhesion to the Bighead fasteners. Being a believer of don't fix it if it aint broken, I did not redo the side that hasn't failed but I laid a generous amount of new Sikaflex over the top for good measure.

Thank you Croc! You gave me far more information that I could have hoped for. I do believe I have the regular wheels and not the ones that are machined for CSR, everything leads to that. If they were CSR and machined they should have sat more sunken not poking out. I think you're right about wingstays. I dont have one to compare on hand but mine were never matching side to side to begin with. There has been some kind of impact or other (sitting on them??) difference between how the two sat. As far as maneuvering the fenders over, no luck even without the bolts. I'm in the process of remounting the set I have with BIGHEAD fasteners (the ones I had that didn't hold up on track day) but they sit in the same location. The lip of the fender is all the way against the vertical part of the fender mount, IE "max towards out" setting/location. After I get new mounts I could take another look at the side to side mounting of the existing one and see where the difference is. Edit: and yes mine are stamped ET13

I'd like to add a small (double pun) anecdote about an S3 and myself. I'm 5'7 on a good day with the regular S3. It's an interesting experience getting in with the half hood on (SBFS). I actually have to take the steering wheel off (removable) to make it easier. With that said, I'm a big fan of the SBFS half hood. For the price you can't beat the people who are so familiar with them and do them all the time. I'd be quite surprised if you can find a local shop that can do this job without having done it before and do anywhere near as close a good job for similar or even lesser price than soft bits. Double that point if you're trying to have some kind of custom design like I did with the stripe.

Croc, this is mostly for you. Maybe new James member as well. I got my new to me set of anthracite 10 spoke from an R400. The fit seems off but I think I'm coming to terms that it's right. Somebody mentioned that they might be CSR wheels. I took the deep dive and looked into it. CSR had a different front and back. Front offset was listed as ET13 on the wheel but that doesn't reflect that Caterham machines down the face on these. Face should look vastly different by at least 1cm of machining All mine should be square 6in et13 I honestly think its the tire profile bring so square that's making it stick out more than normal. Being a smaller thicker sidewall that doesn't flex vs the 13s. So to the CSR folk, can you confirm that this isn't a CSR wheel? Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I agree. Croc thanks for sharing, I would have over looked that. The "BTS" to the build is quite interesting.

Welcome! We could use a set of boots on the ground on the other side of the pond to source some hard to find parts! :seeya:

Put the new rollcage on and tried out the track/replacement wheels on. New wheels stuck out more which is surprising but it works Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

As a registered NY 7 owner, the fact that it's registered in another state should give him an easy pass to get registered here. They might have to type it in and do a little unusual legwork at the counter but they didn't give me an issue. Depending on his year, he will have likely have inspection issues however if he's OBD2. Feel free to relay any questions or contact me if he needs help.

Edit: I don't think uploading them will work. Text too small during resizing

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qknthzh15pqasdf/AAB5pSDD70A-oc8PNjDX3FnTa?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR3XoiJAQymFCXZUahQWgR-mu3hp5Aczw8eY047Nt1R__UUog3LrnlE4WDg Don't believe this has been shared here Don't have a specific good way to embed them all but I'll try

That honeycomb was a royal pita to move in and out with everything in. With that said, question. What is the material that you used between the tank and the frame. Soft double sided 3M molding type material? Mine disintegrated while I was troubleshooting a gas leak and was looking to replace it. Wasn't sure what it was. With you experience can I lift the tank from below and slide new material under or is this a bigger tank out job?

If the carbon matched a little better, it would be a tempting option. Don't forget there is always a vinyl option and the carbon matches much better

Anybody in the market for a car? https://driving.ca/jaguar/auto-news/news/alleged-fraudsters-incredible-230-car-collection-to-be-auctioned-at-no-reserve I believe this is a new one https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/el20/the-elkhart-collection/lots/r0054-1957-lotus-7a-series-1-roadster/820361 There are actually quite a few different 7's on the site.

"Good" to hear that you also struggled with the headlight bracket area. Misery loves company right? This is the product that I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KBXBS96/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Didn't think variations mattered that much so it's one of the few purchases I didn't overthink and over research. Appears I should have I ended up actually cutting out the attachment backing from areas where I had 0 room and that wasn't ideal as it just obviously flops there now. I'll consider cutting out custom pieces of double sided tape to apply myself and or using the hot glue gun to get things to stick. I've also considered doing exhaust hole. Let me know if it holds! I decided there is no way it would survive, but I'll let you pioneer that path! Yes. Didn't seem to make a dent. I'm at least hoping it helped the double sided tape stick better. I'm afraid of melting things with too prolonged spot use.

Yours came out a LOT better than mine did :cuss: You decided not to to the lower control arm entry point and the tie rod circle? I don't have enough clearance in the front hole to really get the trim in there and that's even before I relocate my headlights and add the new mount on top of the control arm mount. You can see how the front part of the trim is just hanging out instead of being tucked under. Maybe OEM trim is better than ebay. I think I have a round in the backstock that I can try. I assume its quite similar though I also have a kink in the bigger hole where trim couldn't flex well around technical areas

Dropped off the new cage for powder coating today after it got scratched in transport. Also fixed the the brakes by bleeding the back brakes. Didn't need to come back for the front. Brakes as good as new. Work so well I actually had to question whether pedal goes far enough to activate the brake switch. Also met up with this guy after. What a machine. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Will try to brakes tomorrow. Today I had other limited success with the edge trim. Some corners were too sharp for material others were too close to the suspension without room. Still not sold on the look either but after much sweating and fidgeting it's done enough to test and see if it grows on me. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Ill be damned. Didn't know about outside bleeders too. Will do those as well. Thanks a ton!

Finally got those Tillett seat triangles installed. They never fit right so I had to cut them and then glue them to sit in place. Also tried to apply a clear vinyl on the seat to stop scratches from the rocks etc into the red. Limited success with that. Taking a break. Too many bubbles and not sitting well in the end Bleeding read brakes next. For some reason have a loss of stopping after winter and I have to pump the brakes. Bled the fronts. Nothing obvious. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

BAT replica https://bringatrailer.com/listing/lotus-cmc-lotus-7-replica/ Cute

I've looked up the receipts and I'm pretty sure I've got LuK LSC272 that fits 2000 FORD CONTOUR 2.0L L4. I know I've never even looked at the V6 as one of the possible fitment options between slave, flywheel and clutch. Honestly didn't think it was a reasonable option. For the V6 it comes up as LUK LSC273 and looks the same as yours. If I'm correct in understanding that 10mm difference it would mean that the clutch would disengage sooner when you press the pedal? And grab closer again closer to the top of the pedal? If so that definitely explains my current symptoms. Looks like I won't need to keep trying to bleed the lines for any more possible trapped air. Edit: While on the subject matter I do advice fabbing up/adding a remote bleeder kit for the slave cylinder like I did. Makes it much more accessible and prevents from dripping/bleeding back into the housing.

You're now making me question my selection of the slave cylinder during my Zetec fix. I ordered a 4CYL Contour I believe but the throw has never felt the same. I assigned that to a whole bunch of new and different components and changes but it could be something as obvious as this. Which direction would the 10mm go in? Towards the driver or towards the firewall?

Personally I have a soft spot for the Atom. It's the reason I have a 7! Story is pretty straight forward. See Atom on TG and fall in love with a "dream car" Have a local get an Atom to further induce desire Realize Atom is unreasonable to register and isn't really affordable ever so start a Locost Look into a Locost long enough and you start to idolize a 7 Get a 7 However after owning a 7 and looking back on it all, you give me a choice between those two above and I'd pick the 620R. Change that I'd even pick a R500. Atom is a better track toy as Croc described in many detail. However a 7 is just a better car.

Anker, THANK YOU. Looks like even though they look the same they are actually different dimentions. That changes my plans about ever trying to buy them. Even though I could machine then down to size, just doesn't seem worth it. Might as well make new ones. Bolt holes probably wouldn't line up either. Are they metal? Center "7" isnt removable either right? Makes me feel better about not winning an auction for prisoner centers. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Any ideas? I have a pending list going to be ordered, but experienced members can provide a good list of consumables or other good things to have on hand.