Vovchandr

All the hotels are sold out. Any recommendations for other accommodations?

Currently the forecast looks good for Saturday with rain on Sunday :toetap05:

New pigtails ordered to fix the wide band. Will mess with this further after NJ http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15590&stc=1

I came into this setup, car came equipped as it is. Seems counter productive to take the stuff off to be honest. Hard work of buying and installing has been done and it would only create more work to undo. Would I have gone for such a setup if the car came without it? Negative. Dumped the motor from the engine yesterday with the the accusump charged to 50kPa. About 5.3qt came out, so I refilled it back with 5.3qt. How would you fill/dump the lines to cooler? Disconnect the AN and fill and then blow air into it to drain? It would be good to have the data for how much that holds to eliminate guess work. Without starting it the oil line lined up with what appears to be some sort of scribe line. Must have been what the previous owners have done and this confirms it. It's faint but it's there. I'm sure the lines bled a little too so I'll likely be just a tad low once I start it but this gives me a good starting point compared to where I was previously. Hopefully I don't see the catch can filled again. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15589&stc=1

:smilielol5:Simon, noted. I look forward to it as well. Just to be on the safe side another question. I will only have to have the drivers belts in year spec/6pt/restrained since I'm not taking a passenger or will they give me a hard time for the passenger belt being out of year/4pt as a blanket rule to be allowed on the track regardless of whether I will have a passenger? I have second set of belts but I would rather spend my time elsewhere if I don't have to install them.

Thanks for the quick reply. 1 + 2 answered fully and well. Looks like going out as a passenger for a run wouldn't be a problem. Something I should know about Simon? :leaving: Yes coming from Albany. Comfort isn't a concern, I've done far longer stints on bikes in the past and Seven is a luxury car in comparison. Just did 3 hours yesterday to NYST and back, only issue was drowsiness. I have a trailer, but no tow car and it looks to be about $400 as a rough ballpark for me to get a truck rental for the weekend. Not sure if it's worth it just yet. Breakdown is obviously a risk/possibility at which point a tow back would be necessary. If I drive my only puzzle would be to keep the aeroscreen or to put the windshield on and put the aeroscreen on the passenger seat.

Double question. 1) This isn't just us on track that day, we are sharing it with other cars right? 2) How many instructor cars will be available to give a passenger a ride? I'm obviously not qualified to take on a passenger but the decision of my +1 hinges on whether she'd get to share the experience of going around the track as well. Edit: might as well follow up here, who has experience with renting tow vehicles and from what service? I'm on the fence about driving vs towing. I have a trailer I can use but no tow vehicle, so going to shop around now.

Again, thanks for the feedback. My point of confusion is that we are on the same page in regards to operational protocol but my math seems to be off. If you're also on raceline oil pan, and they say you must fill 5.28qts for a stock motor and then we add accessories such Accusump and oil cooler/remote filter which will add another 2 to 2.5 qt's, we should arrive at 7.28 to 7.7? Only reason I'm not trusting the stock dip stick is because of raceline directions, but I have no idea how far off the new level should be as I have no reference point due to my motor not being stock. I guess I could discharge all, fill with 5.28 and see where it shows without starting it or anything. Should be close to necessary reading. Either way it's not a bad idea for me to proceed with an oil change myself and start over from square one. I'll add that to my list of final things to prep before the weekend. At this point it looks like I'll be driving the car down and just taking it relatively easy around the track. Towing arrangements have fallen through.

Thank you Kitcat! Could I possibly bother you to snap a picture/measure from bottom of where your dip stick scribe is with the Raceline oil pan to give me a ball park idea? Maybe it will even match one of the existing scribes I have now and I'll know that I can trust it. Why do you say that if I add 5.28 quarts while accusump is full I'll have a mess? I thought the 2 quarts in the sump are supposed to be extra for the system not be a part of the 5.28 total? If I'm understanding correctly you have ~5.28 total in the vehicle with the sump, not ~7.28 like I have? From what I understand in my second post above from the Accusump website, the accusump level is additional not supplementary, so they say with system charged I should read full level on stick, once discharged I should read overfilled?

Accusump information So when properly operating and it's charged they confirm that it shouldn't effect the overall oil level on dip stick. When discharged it logically overfills the oil pan and level is higher.

Went to a shakedown track day yesterday locally to test everything and make sure I can get the car in good shape for next week. Discovered a bunch of issues and remembered one that was never well addressed since I bought the car. What should my proper oil level be? My car has quite a bit of pluming going on. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15581&stc=1 I have a 2.0 Zetec non SVT, raceline oil pan, Accusump system (2qt I believe), remote oil filter and oil cooler on radiator) If you're not familiar with Accusump here is a link https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/canton-24-126-accusump-marine-2-qt-kit/ Raceline oil pan > https://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?SectionID=40&CategoryID=2 Directions from raceline are pretty clear I have some misc marks on the back of my dip stick but it's hard to tell which one I should reference. I guessed before but this became an issue on the track yesterday. The logic is as follows 5qt engine with oil pan creates a new level on dip stick + 2qt for accusump which should not have much an effect on level if it gets charged and remains charged but then there is still margin of error for it being properly calibrated and plumbing. + oil for remote oil filter and lines + oil for oil cooler and plumbing. The reason I bring this up is because after troubleshooting a missing oil dipstick tube seal, I added oil to what I thought should be a proper level and on my return my catch can was completely full of oil and made a mess in the engine bay. Level was still showing high. No foaming so I dont think I had crankshaft whipping. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15582&stc=1 I dumped it, cleaned things up and did a few more rounds. Accumulation was minimal at bottom of the can but this event caused me to address the oil level situation as clearly I dont have it narrowed down. Any educated advice/guesses as to what my volume should be? Once figured out I'll scribe a new line. (5L) 5.28qt engine + 2qt accusmp + 1 liter oil filter/cooler? Put 8.28 quarts, charge/pressurize the accusmp and scribe? Or should I set accusump to not charge and scribe the line with it discharged?

620R nose requires L brackets for mounting with dzus fasteners on that. I have the brackets but haven't fought the battle of mounting yet. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15580&stc=1

Quick update. Tried to adjust this two days ago before a track day yesterday. As soon as I tried to rotate the allen key on the FPR with the car at idle, the twisting force let the gas squirt out around the mount of the FPR (it's bolted straight to fuel rail as shown above). Tried it again and same thing happened. At the same time my wideband computer box stopped working (battery corroded off the 9v terminal). with no way to measure and a track day the next day (yesterday) and still trying to get ready for NJMP I left this alone right now and won't touch it through the week. Got some other issues to troubleshoot right now to get the car ready for next week. If the FPR leaks during operation that could also be a relevant issue to the bad MPG.

I'm going to be taking a better look at this myself. I did a through lubing of the cable yesterday and will see if that helped. Otherwise this is what I gathered on the matter

Tom, my TWM FPR is part of the fuel rail and doesn't have a vacuum line hook up? I can adjust down to ~40psi and from what I've seen so far my fuel pressure doesn't fluctuate at all. I have never diverged into fuel system in vehicles, but to make sure i understand correctly, typically fuel pumps put out constant pressure and systems like FPR adjust the pressure with vacuum or other means? ECU never controls pressure at fuel pump with different voltages for closed/open loop conditions? IE running rich or lean wouldn't be a function of ECU commands? Car is getting better mileage but feels more sluggish on the top end on the butt dyno, but we all know that measures pretty inconsistently. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15565&stc=1 I'm still struggling to get my profile loaded to get Pectel to communicate with Descpro software properly and will keep addressing that. I'll be looking at my A/F at idle as I adjust it? I use my downstream plug past the cat I should expect to read ~.2 to ~.5 richer or leaner?

Update: Replaced the o2 and here is the latest data. City low RPM cruising 12.7 miles .493 gallons. ~25mpg All highway ~70mph average in 6spd 30 miles 1.481 gallons ~ 21mpg Average ~21mpg I think I'm in the right ballpark now?

I think you're spot on as well. One of the few reasons not to buy a 420 and buy a lesser one is finances. Minor anecdote. Coming from the bike world where people always over think their decisions on which 600 super sport to buy, there is a saying that "GSXR 750 makes the best 600 supersport" It is weight and mechanically and weight identical but makes more power when/if you want it. In the same mindset it's easy to drive a 420 like 360 but it's much harder to drive a 360 like a 420. Sidenote: I believe bucket seats are actually lower.

Minor updates Got the fuel gauge installed on the rail. Reading right around 50psi idle and while revving. From brief research seems a tiny bit high/normal, especially if I'm mapped properly for it. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15525&stc=1 http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15526&stc=1 Picture of the coolant temp, while at operating temp. I do have a lower temp thermostat put in, maybe I should switch it. Lower temp Tstat from my understanding should really effect much other than opening sooner but my operating temp should still be the same. It has been fluctuating overall. Normally it's right around 80, has crept up a little higher and this is now unusually low http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15527&stc=1 As far as the ECU, does anybody know why I get this message? ""DESC does not have enough information to use maps currently in this ecu. If you have a different set of maps on disk, you may be able to reprogram the ecu with them. Do you want to try that"" "DESC could not find a compatible profile. To use this ECU/MAP you will need a profile for T2v1-15:TPS/MAP fuel TPS lgn" I do have a profile folder "T2 V1-15 NA" with "ADABAPAC.AAB" which I have deciphered should work for T2 and is NA profile. So far I believe my sticky throttle/hanging rev's are due to a 1 butterfly in the ITB's sticking. Testing pending.

Here is the hard start up video when warm (you can hear fan turning on, I'm at operating temp. It does start if I give it the gas while starting > throws black cloud of gas of the exhaust. Also worth noting that my temperature has been abnormally low. I'm typically a little below 80, but have been close to 60 on the recent 130 mile highway stint.

Updates: Fuel sender gasket replaced and used the forum suggested sealant. Hylomar Blue Gasket Marker. Now I can fill the tank fully again and continue testing. Data: 15 mpg city for a brief city stint, and 14 mpg for a brief highway stint. Followed up by a 19mpg 130 mile highway stint. New development > Hard start up when warm unless I give it gas AND sticky throttle cable/ITB's hanging. Gets worse when warm. A blip of the throttle fixes the hang. Checked/lubed the cable seems alright. This weekend I'll partition cable vs ITB issue by separating them and see if rev's still hang. I know that pulling on the ITB controls still had revs hanging but I can't be certain that activating that control didn't pull the cable with it and the two were partitioned that way. Also I find some very minor vertical play in one of the butterflies. Two set screws are on tight. Here is what the idle sounds like Next courses of action: Take cable out and make sure there is no hanging/isolate it/check free play. Inspect hoses see if there is any air leaking past closed throttle causing hanging revs. Find out what IACV setup I have and whether I have TPS > check their operation. Look into the play in the butterfly and see if it's causing the issue and maybe hanging causing air to sneak past it. Side note: If you're ever concerned with lack of heat in the car, take out the 6 screws holding the pedal box cover plate on. Lack of heat will not be a concern anymore. Been driving around without it while troubleshooting and it gets HOT. Pending: New o2 has arrived and will be replaced. Adapter for fuel pressure gauge/tester is on the way.

Unfortunately it's not quite all that simple or otherwise courts and supreme Court wouldn't struggle and debate with this over the years. Pretty much all Constitutional wording has been open to interpretation of intent. Justified or not. Just look at how 2nd amendment has been executed and enforced over the years. Here is a good breakdown of rulings over freedom of speech that set precedent https://www.uscourts.gov/about-federal-courts/educational-resources/about-educational-outreach/activity-resources/what-does

Your point is correct but it's also irrelevant when it's not enforced or understood by the general public. It's sort of like speed limit enforcement. Everybody has their own understanding of how it works and how much you "can speed". Is it a true limit? Is it 5 over? 10 over? Go with traffic? The law has been so muddled in public opinion that even cops aren't sure how to proceed and will rarely if ever give a ticket for under 5mph (yes it does happen, yes it is legal to get a ticket for it, yes I've seen it first hand). Then the stuff goes to courts for arbitration there. If you ask the general public today, ~98% of people who follow politics at all will tell you that there has been some kind of constitutional crisis over the last ~10 years (covers all parties) but it was never enforced and nobody got "in trouble" for it in the executive branch even with blatant and documented violations. Laws and policies and rights only hold meanings when they are enforced.

Lines get blurred when the "CEO of the USA" doesn't understand USA's own Terms of Service http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15511&stc=1

Here is what I'm finding for the curious minded Take them with a grain of salt. Most are forum posts. Hard to find any direct info from Quaife. They apparently to not have a set period interval. Looks like it's a good time for me to look into inspecting and/or rebuilding mine going into next year.

I have actually have never heard of this. This is neither an easy thing to find as I've tried using obvious key words but they hit on wrong subjects/leads. Do you have any more info on the matter? I find that tidbit strange as that nearly every motorcycle is sequential and transmissions are rarely an issue even with typical type of owners who certainly don't research sequential proper shifting techniques prior to ownership of Supersports. Don't mean to steal the thread but this is relevant info to any new owner. I certainly don't slam every single gear change going light to light.