Vovchandr

Steady holding 19 now for over an hour. Not going to try going higher than that. Will try the 12psi fuel cap on next run.

Solid advice @ashyers & @CarlB and others. Found a few small seeps from hoses and tightened them up. Holding 16 right now steady for a long period! Do I need to shoot/check for higher? Also do I need to find a cap that holds more than 12 psi?

No luck finding it in a Rover Metro so far. Searched by part and engine bay pictures. The CAP appears to be a match for a Mini among other things. Does anybody know what OEM cap with the right spring pressure cross references to?

Used tester today. New data! Who doesn't like data. I discovered that you can use radiator pressure tester can be used to test caps as well. Due to a plethora of reasons over my ownership I ended up with 5 total radiator caps. One from redline melted into a blob after being lost/left on headers. One what I think is after market got butchered to make the bleeding funnel attachment so that leaves me with 3. OEM came with cae, replacement redline and one more aftermarket? Only one of three has passed the pressure test to 12psi. I believe it's redline one. My last run out was on OEM which currently tested either 5 once or 0 after that. Regardless no good. Will continue with the 12psi one. Car system is holding 10psi. Is that good enough for Zetec? Anybody know oem pressure? Haven't found that definitely yet online. Some places said 18psi Redline I believe. ~12psi Aftermarket OEM Car is holding around 10psi

Marshall Gauges Co got back to me and said, I'm paraphrasing "We don't know either, but that don't look good. Don't use it. Here is a discount for a new one"

Indeed it has. I have all the original communication between Chip and the owner. Chip was very kind to share everything he had left over with me. I hesitate to bother him with something trivial like the seats and I'm not sure he'd remember having any issues with coolant even if he did back then. I honestly am thinking that most problems are related and are caused by a macro problem. I have a feeling replacing a head gasket and then getting a new tune would get the car back into fighting shape for the next NJMP. I'm likely going to start buying parts and getting ready to do the HG fix as a hail-mary move regardless of what any of the immediate tests will reveal.

I'll try to pursue that. I spoke with the current owner of the seat who brought it from a couple who worked for him. He decided to reach out to them when I thought it was very coincidental that the only other red Tillett I've ever seen like mine is also currently in NC where my car was from. So I asked where he got it and whether it was close to where original owner lived. He reached out to wife of who he bought it from and confirmed. I'll ask for that contact info

Not sure what they use either. Obviously some kind of failure. I think it reads on par. I'll double check during next testing. Notably I was spot on 40 for longest time and just a few days ago I was at 38. I'm laughing about it. It's maniacal and hair pulling but still laughter.

It was good just a day or two ago. Only thing that happened is that I ran "hot" again. Closer to 100c during test driving and parking. Was very surprised to find it like that. I think I'm not going to put too much thought into it at this moment. Cooling troubleshooting is still priority. Thought it was interesting however. With the current - reinstalled old/OE thermostat I average just below 80 degrees and my fan turns on right before 80 as well.

They are full of fluid from the getgo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQNVDDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Marshall Instruments LS00100 Silver Dial Fuel Pressure Gauge Pretty sure my actual fuel should never be directly in the gauge. It should be separated by a diaphragm or similar (somebody will surely correct me if I'm wrong) Just driving it. I swear I'm pretty sure I'm testing theoretical limits of the Murphy's Laws in regards to everything that can go wrong..

Out of curiosity. Is the old one phased out entirely or still an option?

Doesn anybody know the source for the square coolant overflow/reservoir tank?

Anybody know what could have happened here? Fuel gauge spontaneously blackened/fogged.

That's a good idea. I did mess with a ground when I installed the wideband. I'll double check. Thanks!

You guys are right, spark plugs aren't a good way to tell running condition so I installed a wideband after getting the stuck bung out with a lot of persuasion. At the moment car is still a bit of a drivability mess. I'm not confident in cooling system or my idle/AFM situation. Current status. 1) Wideband installed and keeping an eye on it. Strange thing is from what I see I should go lean when off throttle but I go rich. Otherwise it's a bit all over the place 2) IAC is connected back. It still doesn't hold idle by itself for likely one of two reasons. a) it's bad b) TPS never gives it a hand shake to take over *pending testing* 3) Coolant is still a problem. I drive fine and at temp on highway but as soon as I slow down into traffic I run hot 4) While driving around yesterday I started to get an electrical issue in the tach/speedometer unit. Shift lights would flicker when shifting up or down and then towards the end of the drive when it got hot in traffic it started to be even more buggy. RPM was off and lights were triggering at random. Not too concerned with this as it seems to be a slave from other issues. 5) Rented a coolant system pressure test Plan is to go back a page and follow Crocs list in detail. Remnants of the bung

Still plenty of issues and troubleshooting but at least got to drive around a little bit and found this contemporary parked next to me. (To our 1957 spiritual base)

The guy who had these seats used to work for the original owner of my car and acquired these from him among with other parts. Looks like the red Tillett Venn diagram of Caterham seats is a circle.

Talked to the owner, it appears only the red seat is for sale FYI, the carbon wider seat is for his personal use.

The red seat is very peculiar. It's the only other one I've seen so far that's been done like my seat. Happens to be in NC too where my car was made. I don't believe that's a factory option as I couldn't find it, but I could be wrong. I'd honestly tempted

Could that 1200lbs weight be accurate? On an SV with a heater and windshield and not being a superlite?

It appears 160 wheels have a different lug pattern. For those wondering about CC spacers I'm look more into TStats for Zetecs in meantime. Plug experts. These look lean?

I confirmed this morning they start to open under boiling water. Certainly the original does. That's the one I put back in

I mean... they aren't wrong but you can't really stop somebody who skirted around regulations. That's the whole point of skirting around regulations! It makes it ok/legal until it's officially not again. It's like the age old situation of being questioned by a cop. He might not like what you're doing but you're either under arrest or free to go. Can't really dance in the middle. Good luck on your ventures. I'm still pending my inspection situation in NY. I'm happy I got the registration so far.

I already have Accusump and if I didn't already have a Duratec I wouldn't consider it either. Right now I'm hedging bets that Rotrex will work for my needs.