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Everything posted by Vovchandr
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James May drives three Caterhams (Series 21, Episode 4) https://www.topgear.com/videos/james-may/james-may-drives-three-caterhams-series-21-episode-4
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Top Gear Caterham R500 VS Veritas RS3
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James May and The Stig on the Caterham | Top Gear
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Going with the Top Gear theme DIY Caterham vs The Stig | Top Gear
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The absolute classic Captain slow had the best car for the job Track Cars and the city | Top Gear
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I'm glad 13's have a big sidewall!
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Caterham 420R Build - Paint Protection Film - Episode 4
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For those curious, this is what the key is supposed to look like for the key fob From everything I looked into the ONLY way to get it is with a new key cylinder. Doesn't come as a blank, nor does it come from a third party. I believe those might be made in house. STEERING COLUMN LOCK ALL CARS - Reference: 71247294D As far as blanks for regular keys this is what I have LMA LF10P Interchange Part Number: LF10P, 1006LPS21, P029, AA-3P, LF17-RH, LF19RP45, LF17P, AA3P, UP246, LW37P, PLF20, X157 SILCA RT2P JMA LFRO Fits the following Land Rover: 109 (1984-1987), 110 (1984-1991), 88 (1984-1987), 90 (1985-1991), Santana (1985-1987) Lotus: Esprit Coupe (1991-1994) Maserati: Biturbo (1981-1985), Biturbo 244 (1986-1994), Biturbo 4.18-4.24 (1986-1994), Ghibli (1986-1994), Karif (1986-1994), Quattroporte (1976-1986), Shamal (1986-1994), Spider (1986-1994) Rover: 2000, 2200, 2300, 2400 (1982-1985), 2000, 2200, 2300, 2600, 3500 (1976-1981), 2600, 3500 (1982-1985)
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I already have a full set of 3 bands kit. The issues isn't that I won't match the proportions by going with 2 more bands but that the 2 extra bands won't fit on the bonnet between the gills, so center has to be replaced with the new center in order to fit. IE all 3 have to be redone in order for the scheme to work. Yours looks great!
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Good find. That pretty much settles that.
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Migrating from @John B's build thread. New nose cone/colors discussion I have a 620R nose that is pending painting. I love the white/red combo and the single stripe however it doesn't work with the 620R nose. Primarily because of the ring surround Luckily the new Caterham configurator lets you play around with ideas before committing to any changes. I've done my car with a 620R nose and tried different combinations (along with photoshop) There are 3 primary combos on Caterhams. 1) Single stripe with nose ring 2) Dual equal stripe 3) 3 stripes. Big single and 2 smaller If I try to keep the surround it looks like a monster Also tried blacking out the middle cross bar and it looks like a face you should hide your children from. Doing that cross bar in white is likely no better If I do dual, it looks okay but that means I'd have to repaint scuttle or figure out an alternate solution Which leaves the triple stripe as the likely option. It would be really easy if single center stripe was the same width as the center stripe in the 3 stripe design, then I could just add the 2 auxiliary stripes in vinyl, however I've learned that the single is wider than the center in the 3 stripe design, so either way if I paint the nose in that style and paint the new hood I'll still have to adjust the scuttle to match. Ideally Id have the option of going back and forth between the two schemes just by swapping nose and hood and adjusting the vinyl on the scuttle back and forth.
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@John Bsorry for thread highjack. I'll migrate to a new thread.
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Ah, good call. 420 race has one hole up top. 620R has two. I'm still pending install on mine as I'm having a paint scheme dilemma but that's another story.
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Greatly depends on how it's registered in the other state and what requirements your state has. Some 7's are registered as a kit, or a 1965 replica or a "2001" Caterham. Typically if it's registered as a "2001" it will have to abide by "2001" standards. IE it will be an OBD2 car. If it's a 1965 it will typically be exempt. If it's registered as a kit or a specialty construction it will typically be exempt as well.
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I like the subtle 620R nose cone upgrade
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What do you think is going to be a bottle neck of parts in the future? We are lucky because we are a kit car essentially and due to the history nature of the car many alternatives to use/source from that work. Lets say 10 years from now, which parts will be hard to source for replacement? This falls into two categories. Direct replacements or part type entirely. For direct replacement Tires are being hard to find Some specific engines and parts for them can be hard to source now Specific OEM wheels are also hard to source For parts type entirely We could have a problem with body parts if Caterham stops production
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So, tell us a little about yourselves
Vovchandr replied to slngsht's topic in General Sevens Discussion
We have a single car garage at the house. Or as I like to call it. 7 + 2 bikes -
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No luck with other lock smiths but yesterday decided to get some tools out. Results are mixed. Some success some new issues. Started with the dremel. Demolished the block plates that stopped the key from going all the way. Success! It actually worked. Proceeded to butcher the key to make it fit into the key fob. Lots of measuring, dremel attachments and eventually using bolt cutters I've had more success. That's when around midnight I ran into more problems. The fob now stops the key from going in all the way. So I've made further adjustments and now the key turns with the fob... But it won't come out. The way the cylinders are the key needs to push in further from operating depth in order to pop out. So at this point more butchering awaits..
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I actually don't want to lose the key. It's a stupid small thing that I actually enjoy doing. I don't like push button starts. I even have a spare, but I want to put a key into the "7" key fob which requires me to cannibalize the head of one of the keys to fit and didn't want to do it to originals. The heads of my keys are nothing like the cut out so I have to butcher the top to make it work.
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Tried to get a duplicate key made. Ordered a blank from England. Got to a local key smith who says "I hope it's not steel". I tell him I have no idea. He puts it up against a magnet and sure enough it sticks. Tells me he can't make a copy of that key as it needs a carbide unit. Hes got a similar enough key that might work but he can't guarantee it from some other euro brand. I rolled the dice and no luck. Doesn't go in far enough. Left is blank. Mid is oem. Right is new. You can see right has a slightly shorter neck.