Vovchandr

Marshall Gauges Co got back to me and said, I'm paraphrasing "We don't know either, but that don't look good. Don't use it. Here is a discount for a new one"

Indeed it has. I have all the original communication between Chip and the owner. Chip was very kind to share everything he had left over with me. I hesitate to bother him with something trivial like the seats and I'm not sure he'd remember having any issues with coolant even if he did back then. I honestly am thinking that most problems are related and are caused by a macro problem. I have a feeling replacing a head gasket and then getting a new tune would get the car back into fighting shape for the next NJMP. I'm likely going to start buying parts and getting ready to do the HG fix as a hail-mary move regardless of what any of the immediate tests will reveal.

I'll try to pursue that. I spoke with the current owner of the seat who brought it from a couple who worked for him. He decided to reach out to them when I thought it was very coincidental that the only other red Tillett I've ever seen like mine is also currently in NC where my car was from. So I asked where he got it and whether it was close to where original owner lived. He reached out to wife of who he bought it from and confirmed. I'll ask for that contact info

Not sure what they use either. Obviously some kind of failure. I think it reads on par. I'll double check during next testing. Notably I was spot on 40 for longest time and just a few days ago I was at 38. I'm laughing about it. It's maniacal and hair pulling but still laughter.

It was good just a day or two ago. Only thing that happened is that I ran "hot" again. Closer to 100c during test driving and parking. Was very surprised to find it like that. I think I'm not going to put too much thought into it at this moment. Cooling troubleshooting is still priority. Thought it was interesting however. With the current - reinstalled old/OE thermostat I average just below 80 degrees and my fan turns on right before 80 as well.

They are full of fluid from the getgo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQNVDDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Marshall Instruments LS00100 Silver Dial Fuel Pressure Gauge Pretty sure my actual fuel should never be directly in the gauge. It should be separated by a diaphragm or similar (somebody will surely correct me if I'm wrong) Just driving it. I swear I'm pretty sure I'm testing theoretical limits of the Murphy's Laws in regards to everything that can go wrong..

Out of curiosity. Is the old one phased out entirely or still an option?

Doesn anybody know the source for the square coolant overflow/reservoir tank?

Anybody know what could have happened here? Fuel gauge spontaneously blackened/fogged.

That's a good idea. I did mess with a ground when I installed the wideband. I'll double check. Thanks!

You guys are right, spark plugs aren't a good way to tell running condition so I installed a wideband after getting the stuck bung out with a lot of persuasion. At the moment car is still a bit of a drivability mess. I'm not confident in cooling system or my idle/AFM situation. Current status. 1) Wideband installed and keeping an eye on it. Strange thing is from what I see I should go lean when off throttle but I go rich. Otherwise it's a bit all over the place 2) IAC is connected back. It still doesn't hold idle by itself for likely one of two reasons. a) it's bad b) TPS never gives it a hand shake to take over *pending testing* 3) Coolant is still a problem. I drive fine and at temp on highway but as soon as I slow down into traffic I run hot 4) While driving around yesterday I started to get an electrical issue in the tach/speedometer unit. Shift lights would flicker when shifting up or down and then towards the end of the drive when it got hot in traffic it started to be even more buggy. RPM was off and lights were triggering at random. Not too concerned with this as it seems to be a slave from other issues. 5) Rented a coolant system pressure test Plan is to go back a page and follow Crocs list in detail. Remnants of the bung

Still plenty of issues and troubleshooting but at least got to drive around a little bit and found this contemporary parked next to me. (To our 1957 spiritual base)

The guy who had these seats used to work for the original owner of my car and acquired these from him among with other parts. Looks like the red Tillett Venn diagram of Caterham seats is a circle.

Talked to the owner, it appears only the red seat is for sale FYI, the carbon wider seat is for his personal use.

The red seat is very peculiar. It's the only other one I've seen so far that's been done like my seat. Happens to be in NC too where my car was made. I don't believe that's a factory option as I couldn't find it, but I could be wrong. I'd honestly tempted

Could that 1200lbs weight be accurate? On an SV with a heater and windshield and not being a superlite?

It appears 160 wheels have a different lug pattern. For those wondering about CC spacers I'm look more into TStats for Zetecs in meantime. Plug experts. These look lean?

I confirmed this morning they start to open under boiling water. Certainly the original does. That's the one I put back in

I mean... they aren't wrong but you can't really stop somebody who skirted around regulations. That's the whole point of skirting around regulations! It makes it ok/legal until it's officially not again. It's like the age old situation of being questioned by a cop. He might not like what you're doing but you're either under arrest or free to go. Can't really dance in the middle. Good luck on your ventures. I'm still pending my inspection situation in NY. I'm happy I got the registration so far.

I already have Accusump and if I didn't already have a Duratec I wouldn't consider it either. Right now I'm hedging bets that Rotrex will work for my needs.

Installed!

Honestly if power is your pursuit and you're willing to deal/remedy cutting/replacing hood and side panel than Duratec swap should be a no brainer. I keep chasing power on my Zetec because I honestly don't want to commit to the swap and cutting holes and new ECU and the downtime. If I didn't already have a peppy Zetec I would go straight to Duratec over winter. Downsides of Duratec are as follows: Downtime Cutting hood/sidepanel and/or replacing those parts. Exhaust away from driver (downside for some, like myself, I love it next to me) Cannot be supercharged on S3 LHD to be a 620R clone (allegedly doesn't fit with steering shaft, hence no LHD S3 620r's) Overall cost (considering your alternatives it's a wash). I wouldn't be surprised if I do go through with my Rotrex setup on the Zetec in the end and still end up going with Duratec myself in the future after not being happy.

Very cool. Wonder if you really will have to take the boot apart like the video showed or you can get away with pretty much drilling and bolting it on.

Hi and welcome. You covered all the reasonable options pretty well and seems that you've done your HW. I have pretty much your option 1) with a sequential and it's a very nice setup. I'm very happy with it. (I have Sierra Quaife, not the Sadev. Sadev is much nicer) You could get a VCT to around 200 crank, and about 170 wheel but it will be difficult (not impossible) get it to 200 wheel with a full built. I'd let experts chime in on this bit. I'd be happy if I had 170wheel with ITB's and work, but I don't know what I actually put down. It was sold as a "200hp" build. I'm not familiar with SVT too much or its potential. Duratec is obviously the biggest commitment but also would be the easiest HP from stock block in the end. Yes you'd need new mounts and a new hole etc but it's a more potent motor to begin with and can even be left stock or minor boltons to get to where you want. Plenty of Duratec experts that can chime in on this matter. I personally have a Duratec myself and still not willing to commit to that change. I know how much work this will require in the end but it's nothing that hasn't been done before by people. If "easy" high HP is your goal, honestly FI will be your best bet. Turbo or SC on Zetec will get you the most HP with relative ease, but it's not done commonly due to people not liking the lag or in general the throttle feel of FI. Lots of people prefer R500 vs the 620R even due to that and the obvious extra weight added as well. If you're looking for future proof NA build, Duratec is really your answer. Zetec build will get expensive. ITB's alone will be $2000. ITB's and build you're likely into $3000 or even $4000. Not sure what SVT costs but SVT + build + ITB's you'd be looking at what $4000 to $6000?