Vovchandr

Don't know what his schedule is, or whether your fix is quick or complicated but Turbofocus is the East Coast Zetec god/guru and he's in NC (not sure where off the top of my head). I'm in NY and planning to bring my Zetec sometime down to him to tune and fiddle with.

Haven't heard back from TWM but it looks like the solution for the intake plenum will be to machine down the entire surface and just make on big gasket to mate it to the head. Called Quantum and I think he's going to get back to me tomorrow, he said he had the gaskets and seals I need in stock. That leaves a few other misc things to order but it's almost ready to be put back together.

Thank you. They are close enough by. I send him an email 12 hours ago as he showed up as one of the sources for parts. Ideally I won't need to make the drive just for 3 gaskets and seals.

Twm Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Since discovering that my clutch grenaded I have everything apart and the part sourcing begins. I confirmed that I have the ZX2 motor from Contour/Mysique/Cougar/Focus I confirmed that the T9 transmission was not stock in any of those cars and was offered in the most obscure vehicles almost none of which were available stateside (Ford Capri/Sierra/XR4Ti). I'm also not exactly sure if the rubber gasket on transmission face is from standard T9 or it's a Quaife part. Calling Quaife wasn't very helpful for part sourcing. Search continues. Looking to replace intake gasket, I realize that ITB's had their own set and the OEM replacement will not work (somewhat obvious in hindsight), which lead me to discover new issues I have also discovered that my Jenvey ITB's seem to have a TWM throttle body which appears to be quite messed up. Time to look into rebuilding or replacing. Brightonuk who did you use to rebuilt yours?

During my regular searches for all new things "Caterham" on the internet I came across this post on Reddit https://old.reddit.com/r/WeirdWheels/comments/cmb32k/caterham_kit_car_i_guess_never_heard_of_it_before/ Reverse light looked familiar and a search for a few key words on the forum lead me to match it to the rightful owner. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15789&stc=1

Took a few hours and pulled the engine out last night to get to the bottom of things. ...yeah there was no driving it back upstate after this. Surprised I even limped out to get pictures taken Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

For what it's worth here is a good comparison of good LED vs China stuff and what the difference in beam and light out put is

I swapped with the more reasonable amazon/china replica models. I started with 7in and then did 5 3/4in setup. Both have very good output even for the price but I wasn't happy with how 7in ones were sitting in the bucket. 5 3/4 sit perfect and are almost exact replicas of OEM. Hard to tell difference unless you know what you're looking for. It's not quite OEM but it's also not $1000 (after conversion and shipping etc) If you want just the output I'd get better bulbs, even LED replacements. If you want output and style, go replica. If you want best quality and best output then get ready to spend the $$ to get the best of each. Only you can say if it's worth it.

I appreciate the concerns, but for posterity's sake. Mileage was logged using GPS as well as tripometer for the times when it worked. I tried to use the same gas pumps before and after for consistency. I've started doing much longer distances as well as you read through the thread. I tried my best to eliminate most variables and assumptions. However when I would drive ~60 miles from full on highway and then be approaching E already I knew there is something going on beyond just gauge reading inaccurate. In the end I got it into the teens/low 20's at best. Still pending: Compression test FPR adjustment possibly while logging AF Getting PECTEL to communicate with software properly Making sure there is nothing seeping past the ITB butterfly's Results won't be around for at least another month.

As some of you know the car had an transmission/clutch fail at NJMP. It's still down waiting for me to do an engine out troubleshooting of what exactly happened. This obviously puts any MPG troubleshooting on hold for at least another month. On this subject, should I do both engine and transmission at once or separate at the bell housing and just pull the engine out? I'm coming out of the top.

Yeah we are working out the details on getting a new one. It was a replacement glass to begin with, not the full frame (~$80 GBP vs ~$300 GBP). Keeping the old nose cone and will swap back and forth. I'll add the aero canards on the 620r and likely will go with a straight stripe down the middle on it instead of a "lipstick" layout. This way I could have two different looks easily swappable back and forth.

That did not go "cheap". A lot to spend for essentially the next level Atom!

That's exactly why I was asking! Ha! His setup is very similar to mine and identical throttle bodies with built in FPR. Before mine broke I was reading right around 50psi which we agreed in my thread was too high and when I was trying to turn it down on the screw gas was spewing past the gasket once I was giving it leverage on the adjustment screw. Since this was a week before the 7's event I left it alone and didn't want to end up breaking it further right before driving down a few hundred miles.

When you have a chance, could you tell me what PSI your fuel rail typically reads at while running? Thanks!

Has the engine noise changed drastically since all the work has been done? I'm curious as to what makes your sound so menacing in comparison.

Your car has essentially the same base setup as mine but it sounds amazing and definitely looks quicker! https://www.instagram.com/p/B0FDHVcnkhA/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

I have one. Don't be giving me encouragements to start mocking it up!

*ahem* I added lightness via a front wing "adjustment"

"Jail-cell bars" and the "windshield" are taken off and put away. Far away. You want them? I hear they liked it better in the warm West coast! I have no idea what the last owner was thinking but he certainly made interesting fashion choices in certain regards. Again thanks for not buying it :auto: I went through Redline. Chris has been nothing but a pleasure to deal with but the whole process is a bit... involving. Found out the hard way that money wire transfer doesn't use the current market rate but rather uses whatever the banks decide to use at the time which favors them, which meant that the current google currency conversion was not accurate and the real value was higher. Shipping costs for 2 major boxes so far were about $400-500 if I recall once converted. There was also a "port release fee" or something similar I had to pay to the tune of $100 afterwards. I'm glad I have the parts that I've wanted but it's wasn't a bargain by any stretch of the word to get this done.

Car made it back to NY yesterday. Big thank you to Mike for being a gracious host. I'll be digging into it over the next couple of weeks. If I had to throw a dart at the wall for a guess I'd say my pressure plate failed but we will know soon enough. Tom, side question. Do you know who made the carbon tie rods for your car? That westermann doesn't seem to be the one. Or maybe they just no longer carry them. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Can't help you with sustained track use advice, but you have a similar Zetec setup and I use 5-30 Mobil1 for the street. My pressure however is typically much lower as well I'll maybe see 20 throughout regular operation. Maybe higher during WOT but thats rare during regular operation. IMO First number is really "dealers choice" as 32 degree viscosity doesn't really matter for a track car, especially with accusump operating. So choices are really 30/40 or 50 so second number.

Poor guy is pushing maximum density in that S3 frame :rofl:

The cat actually had the biggest wall impact of the day after losing control during a snap change in direction. Luckily NJMP decided to give an exception on repairs fee in this case.

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