SENC

Not nearby (eastern NC), but keep us posted if you get something organized. I need a good excuse to get to the mountains for a drive.

I bought a 2007 Land Rover LR3 about 2 years ago with similar thoughts in mind. 130k miles, 2 or 3 owners all in the South, and a service record. The trump cards over other vehicles were towing capacity (just under 8k) and price. With a purchase price under $6k and setting aside $7-8k for potential maintenance in the first 12 months, I was comfortable total cost would be 20% lower than the others and I'd have a better towing and off road vehicle. I think I ended up with a total year 1 cost of about $11k. It has been a brilliant vehicle I really enjoy driving. The downsides are it is slow and drinks gas, relative to the others you mention - but the first is irrelevant to me in a daily driver and tow vehicle. The extra $800ish in gas per year is offset by lower taxes and lower insurance costs, so immaterial. I've found the LR3 to be relatively easy to work on, and have done about 50% of the work to date myself. I use a good independent LR mechanic for bigger/more technical stuff or when I just don't have time. The LR3s and LR4s (and UK cousins Discovery 3 and 4) have huge followings and active communities so advice, parts etc. are very readily available.

The revised Library is much easier to find and remember - at least for me - thanks! Perhaps once this supplier list is more complete, it could reside there as well. Re the supplier/vendor list, it's been my observation that vendors tend to focus on particular "eras" of Sevens with some, but very limited, overlap (Redline, for example). Organizing the list by major car groupings might be a way to make a long list easier to use. Parts suppliers for pre-70s Sevens Dave Bean Engineering (DBE) - Primary West Coast USA supplier of vintage Lotus parts (focused on Seven, Elite, Elan, Europa, Cortina) - https://www.davebean.com/ RD Enterprises - Primary East Coast USA supplier of vintage Lotus parts (focused on Elan, Europa, Elite, Eclat, Esprit) - https://www.rdent.com/ Tony Ingram Historic Racing (CA) - Restorations, engine rebuild, and parts for racing and street Sevens (and a few other cars) - https://lotus7.com/Home.html Lee Chapman Racing (CT) - Parts for Sevens and other period Racers, primarily suspension - http://www.leechapmanracing.com/index.html Sevens & Elans (MA) - Rebuilder, sells cars and used parts - http://www.sevenselans.com/carsforsale.htm Redline Components (UK) - Top UK supplier specific to Sevens, with Lotus and Caterham - https://redlinecomponents.co.uk/ Tony Thomson Racing (UK) - supplier of bits for racing Elans - https://www.tonythompsonracing.co.uk/ Kelvedon Lotus (UK) - supplier of parts for Elites, Elans, Europa, Cortinas - https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/ SJ Sportscars (UK) - parts supplier of vintage and newer Lotus cars - https://www.sjsportscars.com/home.htm Mick Miller Lotus (UK) - parts for classic Lotus cars - http://www.mickmillerlotus.com/lotus-parts.html British Classic Spare Parts (UK) - parts for classic British cars - https://britishclassicspareparts.com Classic Team Lotus Parts (UK) - bought out Paul Matty, supplier of classic Lotus parts - https://www.parts.classicteamlotus.co.uk/ MEV Spares (UK) - parts for classic British cars - https://www.mevspares.co.uk/home.php Small Ford Spares (UK) - English Ford parts, incl Anglia 105E parts - https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/vehicles/ford-anglia-saloon-105e-106e-1959-to-1967 Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club (UK) - parts forb105Es - https://105eoc.com/spares/ Standard 8 & 10 Spares (UK) - parts for Standard 8s and 10s (S2 Sevens used Std 10 axle) - https://standard8n10spares.co.uk/ Standard Motor Club (UK) - parts for Standard cars - https://www.standardmotor.club/standard-8-10-etc Will look forward to what others might add to this list.

Attached is the article and below a picture with the part number that fits our sumps. Re the cork gasket, I used Wellseal - first applying it sump-side. Then I flipped the sump upside down and added a touch of weight and allowed it to sit overnight. This kept the gaskets from moving around on install. Another good option is to replace the bolts with studs/nuts as the studs keep everything in line. I can't remember if RD Ent carry them, but if not one of the usual Brit suppliers do. RopeSealArticle.pdf

I used a Best Gasket graphtite product alternative, after reading a great article on it. So far so good. Will try to find that article and share this evening.

I suspect what's happening is that you're starting with a big air pocket, and as the clutch is actuated multiple times the air is getting mixed with the fluid so you're ending up with a more broadly compressible column of fluid.

I would trust them, too. Ken is very knowledgeable - if you have any doubt, just give him a buzz and discuss, I'm sure he'll either put your mind at ease or replace (if the 2 of you determine that prudent). For what it is worth, here is the one I used. It came from Tony Ingram, and has been copper-coated in advance of install.

I should have commented that I know my engine was rebuilt in the 70s/80s after a thrown rod, so the pistons that came out were not likely original (at least 1 one them). The following photos are pages from the DBE Elan/Plus2/Cortina catalog and DBE English Ford Racers catalog, respectively. I take them to suggest flat tops were standard for pre-crossflows.

Mine were flat and replaced with flat (picture below). There isn't much clearance, so I'd think that protrusion on yours could be the issue. Maybe wasn't originally but if the head got skimmed and/or a thinner head gasket used?

I was wondering about that protrusion, and thought it was maybe just an optical illusion.

Agree with others, I'd be investigating for other symptoms that might help narrow things down. Before pulling things apart, I'd also check and adjust valve clearances and double check head bolt torque. Given the water flow/overheating issues you were having for a bit and (if I'm remembering correctly) a history of the car not being used much since any PO work on it years ago, I'd both want to make sure something easy wasn't missed and also note current state before removing the head.

Reach out to Tony Ingram (lotus7.com). When I was rebuilding mine he had a specific recommendation based on his experience building many of these engines.

Excellent, enjoy!

There is a bearing/bushing in there - it isn't off kilter and blocking you, is it?

Here is a link to Joe's old Seven on simplesevens.net - you'll find pictures of his blue engine, which looks a lot like the sprayed blue you tried. Looks nice to me. https://www.simplesevens.org/1736/1736.htm

@SevenAmerica - John - do you have any known sources for S2 clutch kits?

Lotus did paint engines - a number of different colors! Check out John Donohoe's simplesevens website and you can find pictures of lots of cars and engines with different paint jobs. Ford gearboxes appear to have been all black, all green, or green with a black bellhousing. I think blue or blue gray were used on a number of engines/vehicles. The S2 Cosworth 1500 seemed to have been painted wine red - and it's gearbox dark green. I can't remember where I read/found that initially, but I did find this download of a thread on paint colors from the old se7ens mailserve. Even here some disagreement - yet another indicator Lotus was never as consistent as we sometimes wish they'd been - John Watson's opinion is last in the list for each part. His matches best with what I've seen/read elsewhere. I don't recall reading whether earlier Cosworth engines like yours were similarly or differently painted. I chose the red/green scheme - because of what I'd read and because I found traces if both whe cleaning my engine and gb. But I did not take the time to try to specifically color match, finding POR-15's MG Maroon and Ford Green approximated well enough (for me) pictures I'd seen. S2 Paint Colors.pdf

You can look at it without disassembly. Check to make sure it isn't obviously cracked, missing a chunk, or distorted/out of shape/oblong (sometimes when sitting for a long time the yoke can get stuck to it). You should be able to push on it to see that the rubber inner ring still has some pliability. Also inspect the yoke for signs of pitting/damage or even wear from the seal. Put some assembly lube or similar on the yoke and insert it into the tailshaft extension and onto the shaft and inspect for any obvious poor fit. Since you haven't reported leaking from the gearbox before removing it, the seal is likely OK. Leaking now from that area is a non-issue - there is nothing to prevent it. The seal seals against the yoke. You might also make sure the plug in the base of the yoke is well-seated and holds oil. It is possible, if not being careful, for the tailshaft to hit the plug from the inside of the yoke and to unseat that plug - which would then leak.

Also be sure to inspect the seal in the tailshaft extension (where the yoke/propshaft enters). If you need to replace it, it is much easier to do so with the extension removed from the gearbox - and off you can also inspect the bushing for unusual wear. This link may be helpful, as well... https://lotuselan.net/wiki/Gearbox_(Transmission)_-_Fault_Finding

Manually turn the drive shaft and use the selectors to get 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. Smooth? Any obvious hitches or problems? Spin the drive shaft slowly and look at all the brass and steel dogs/teeth any obvious damage? Are the baulk rings butt up against the gear dogs, or is there a gap (I haven't found my note on the expected gap, but if no gap that would be a sign of heavy wear). Use a light and see if you can get any angle to look at the ends of the selector forks - you may be able to tell if there is any excessive wear. Any obvious specks of brass when you drained the gb oil, or in the bottom of the gb? Check the end float on the main shaft - does it move forward/backward to any significant degree? I think either the Seven or Elan manual indicates proper end float - but it shouldn't feel excessive. I agree with wdb that you can't do a lot of definitive assessment without opening it all up - but with the above you may be able to make a preliminary assessment of whether there is reason to go further.

As I recall I searched for a while for a NOS clutch disk and PP, and eventually found both (separately). Keep your eyes open for AP (owned B&B rights in UK) and parts seemed to have been marketed/sold as AP, B&B, and AP B&B. #50803 is the part number on mine, there should be cross references out there. I'm assuming yours is also 7.5"? Anglia/Mk 1 Cortina should be the same. You might also check with Moss Motors - I think they sell a range from AP Raicam, who now have the rights to mfr AP B&B UK parts. As I recall some of the MGs (Midgets or Sprites maybe?) also used a UK Ford gearbox and so may have used the same clutch and pp.

Arm looks fine to me - here is the arm from mine for comparison. I assume this is the same as your gb mount? Check with DBE to see if they have one. I seem to recall getting mine from an Anglia parts vendor, ir maybe even the 105e anglia club.

Found an image of selector wear on lotuselan.net.

A few pictures from my project... My ring gear, notched after cutting it for removal. It doesn't look all that different from yours until you look at the areas of most wear. If you have portions that are this worn, you might go ahead and change it out. Picture of an open gearbox. Blue circles the location of the springs and detent balls. Red arrows to the baulk rings. Green arrows to the gear selectors. The brass baulk rings ride on a tapered cone and have internal ridges that wear. You obviously can't see those ridges without pulling everything apart, but manually shifting the gear levers you can observe them and how they move - if they but up right next to the gears with little/no gap, they are very well worn. Also look at the teeth of both the baulk rings and gears for signs of damage/gear crashing. Here is a closeup of 2 sets put of the gb during my rebuild. Also try to look down at the gear selector forks to see if you can identify excessive wear. I don't have a side view of a fork showing high wear, but here is a picture of the areas you're looking to observe.

You cut the ring gear off, but it doesn't look that awful to me. You can get a new one on by popping the flywheel in the freezer overnight and heating a new ring gear in an oven. It took me a fair amount of effort with a mallet to get mine in place. The pinion gearing does look pretty chewed up - you can still find these NOS, just match the number of teeth. I have a tool to aid in removing the pinion - happy to loan it to you - I'll see if I have any pictures when I was rebuilding mine, might give you an idea of alternate solutions you have on hand. As long as that starter is off, might as well look in on the brushes to make sure they have life left. Check before you change starter types - that ring gear looks to want engagement from only one side, and gear reduction starters (I think) engage from the other side. Your theory doesn't sound crazy to me, but I still wonder about something in the gearbox. I can change gears in mine even without the clutch with a light touch and if I time it right. If I'm understanding your problem correctly, you can't select a gear at all in certain circumstances - whereas I'd think a stuck plate would result in grinding gears. I'll find pictures of an open gearbox. One note as you open the top - there are 3 springs under the tailshaft end of the cap (putting pressure down on detent balls that keep the gear lever bars from popping out of gear) - be aware of them so you don't drop them down into the gearbox.