SENC

I missed the measurement "by front tire bulge to rear tire bulge". I'm not sure how you'd determine toe in or out without 2 measurements per wheel (preferably at the wheel), and tire bulge suggests to be 1 measurement at each. Comparing front to rear rather than side to side is also confusing. Perhaps TLK can clarify and we can help better.

I'm an Android user (Samsung Flip), and downloaded their beta app for Android. It's not as "fancy" as the iPhone screenshots in the video, though that may also be part of buying the package. I did the initial sensor test and the app reported more variance than ideal. I then did the parallel surface test (start on a flat vertical service to get initial "lock", rotate it 10 degrees or more while keeping it on the same flat plane, return to the same vertical surface) and could see the variance visually. I think I have an app on my phone that recalibrates the gyro sensors and will play with that some tomorrow and try again, but it may be that my phone sensors have different tolerances than the iPhones for which the product appears designed. Notwithstanding the above, it's pretty easy to see how you can prove to yourself it would (or wouldn't) be accurate enough for you by mimicking the movements and choosing 2 known parallel surfaces for the 4 wheel readings. I'd be interested in findings of others, if you try it out. Very cool and simple. Hope I can get it to work on my phone or that future software enhancements allow calibration to more phone/sensors types.

Now that is a cool product! Have you (or anyone else here) tried it? I may download the app just to check it out.

Are you saying there is rear toe-in only one 1 side? Assuming you have the Standard 10 live axle that would suggest to me an issue with axle location, perhaps from a bent or incorrectly installed radius arm? But I would expect toe-out on the opposite side in this case - and a tracking issue. If you're saying you have toe-in on both sides, then probably as designed. I don't remember checking mine. The live axle doesn't have provision for toe adjustment. But if you look at other Lotus of the period (like the Europa) that have independent rear suspension with ability to adjust, the manual specs are for a small toe-in (1/8" on the S2 Europa).

I'll take a look through my files later today to see if I have an instruction document, but it is pretty simple on early Sevens. Look for the string method for front end alignment as a simple way to measure alignment. Adjustment is by rotating track rods. My recollection is that toe-in should be 1/8" (in total, so half each side), but I'll see what I have to confirm that if you can't find it in the shop manual.

Great news, Al!

I ran into similar frequently immediately post-Brexit, and some smaller companies still don't have systems updated to suit their compliance folks about staying within trade/tariff/tax rules so still take this stance. So, may not be liability-relatwd. I believe I'd just call them, explain that you're currently in the US but would like to purchase and have the item shipped to your (forward2me) British address but the system is stopping you due to your current location. You'll get charged VAT, but that may be a small price to get what you need.

Sold for just under $40k - seems about right.

Just saw this one and was coming to post it - a great-looking example!

Great pics, hate I couldn't get there!

LOG overlaps with an annual trip to S TX with friends, so I'll be coming through Austin but not with either Lotus nor doing LOG, unfortunately. I have to leave my gathering in Uvalde on Saturday rather than Sunday to begin the trek back to NC - so if timing allows I may try to slip through on Saturday. If not, I hope to see plenty of Lotus on the road. Hope you all have a great time. Henry

Which DCOE40 type? I just read yesterday a comment elsewhere that the posts from which the floats hang were different length in early DCOE40s (that used brass) than later. Conceptually it shouldn't matter as you can adjust the flange on the floats to achieve the level you want. I wouldn't change them unless you have a known reason to do so (brass can develop holes and hold gas, pin is bent or worn and float can't move freely or alternately be too loose and jiggly, etc). Check your fuel level in both carbs from the top after letting it idle. Remove a main jet and tube in each and look down from above with a light. Part way down you should see the orifice through which gas is pulled into the venturi - it's a good reference point for comparing fuel levels across carbs. Alternately use a paper matchstick or similar to actually measure and compare. If they are different that might suggest one of them has a float issue to investigate.

I use ethanol free unleaded at the highest octane level (no problem finding it in southern US states as it is heavily used for yard and farm equipment - maybe find out where farmers buy gas for their non-diesel equipment?). I do add Redline lead substitute just as a precautions though I've been told it isn't really an issue on our engines. I've periodically bought Sunoco "race fuel" - they have a wise variety including some specifically for older (non-racing) engines. My car loves the 104/105, but it is expensive and technically not road legal so I don't use it much.

I think "wind" is not the buffeting issue, rather the extreme low pressure pulling in air. In other words the more you block the wind, the more you're increasing low pressure in the cockpit and the more buffeting introduced. Thus, brooklands type screens increase wind but decrease buffeting relative to full windscreens. I have wind deflectors from Redline and at certain speeds they do help - but mainly by moving the air flow eddies slightly rather than blocking wind. I suspect the real answer to addressing the issue when using a full windscreen is not attempting to block more wind but in finding other ways to get air into the cockpit to increase air pressure behind the screen and reduce buffeting from the side and rear. I've not yet gotten around to trying to develop some sort of scoop to attach to the windshield (like those for Miatas) to pull in air and distribute it down and outward, but thay might be beneficial. I also like the idea someone else here implemented of a scoop below the car ducting air into each footwear. My bet is either would be multiples better than the side deflectors.

For what it's worth, I don't care for the braid covered hoses. Though they certainly provide external abrasion resistance, you can't see and monitor the condition of the hose itself - and I'm not confident the inner hose is any better quality than the cheap stuff. I've stuck with high quality hose and barbs.

Nice! And congratulations!

Not sure if you've found what you want, but if not you might add the LR Discovery 5 to the list to consider. Had my LR3 in for some planned suspension work and they gave me a D5 for a couple days. I was unexpectedly impressed, really a nice vehicle with lots of space. Drove it both in town and for a few hundred miles on the interstate. A V6, but rated for about 8k pounds towing. Had a long conversation with the indy shop manager - they have found them quite solid mechanically, in fact he'd bought one about a year ago for his significant other.

The Lotus Elan Shop Manual says 12-15 ft lbs of torque. A kent ford manual I have reminded me there are lock washers for these bolts.

Chris - I saw this morning that there is an active discussion on lotuselan.net on concentric slave use (and I know I've seen others there). You might check that thread and others on that forum for additional guidance. https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=46138&view=unread&sid=00f39b24fa44b51a0f4f4399959b2ee9#unread

Hylomar Blue, Wellseal, Loctite Aviation Gasket Sealer - any or similar should do the job just fine if surfaces are good. I think I used Wellseal as I had it on hand. I think the keys is to not use a silicone based sealant like rtv that can get into the oil and bead up and clog passages - though even that is probably fine if just a smear that won't squeeze out. Threadlock is fine if you choose - but I tend to use anti-seize (copper or nickel depending on metals) for such bolts. Proper torque should hold them in place. I can't remember torque for these - will see if I can find if I had a resource specific to our engines and pumps, but there are generic torque charts for bolt sizes across the web.

Priming the pump can sometimes be an issue. Redline Assembly Lube or a similar product that disperses in oil can be used in the pump before assembly to ensure innards are protected and improve suction.

Not nearby (eastern NC), but keep us posted if you get something organized. I need a good excuse to get to the mountains for a drive.

I bought a 2007 Land Rover LR3 about 2 years ago with similar thoughts in mind. 130k miles, 2 or 3 owners all in the South, and a service record. The trump cards over other vehicles were towing capacity (just under 8k) and price. With a purchase price under $6k and setting aside $7-8k for potential maintenance in the first 12 months, I was comfortable total cost would be 20% lower than the others and I'd have a better towing and off road vehicle. I think I ended up with a total year 1 cost of about $11k. It has been a brilliant vehicle I really enjoy driving. The downsides are it is slow and drinks gas, relative to the others you mention - but the first is irrelevant to me in a daily driver and tow vehicle. The extra $800ish in gas per year is offset by lower taxes and lower insurance costs, so immaterial. I've found the LR3 to be relatively easy to work on, and have done about 50% of the work to date myself. I use a good independent LR mechanic for bigger/more technical stuff or when I just don't have time. The LR3s and LR4s (and UK cousins Discovery 3 and 4) have huge followings and active communities so advice, parts etc. are very readily available.

The revised Library is much easier to find and remember - at least for me - thanks! Perhaps once this supplier list is more complete, it could reside there as well. Re the supplier/vendor list, it's been my observation that vendors tend to focus on particular "eras" of Sevens with some, but very limited, overlap (Redline, for example). Organizing the list by major car groupings might be a way to make a long list easier to use. Parts suppliers for pre-70s Sevens Dave Bean Engineering (DBE) - Primary West Coast USA supplier of vintage Lotus parts (focused on Seven, Elite, Elan, Europa, Cortina) - https://www.davebean.com/ RD Enterprises - Primary East Coast USA supplier of vintage Lotus parts (focused on Elan, Europa, Elite, Eclat, Esprit) - https://www.rdent.com/ Tony Ingram Historic Racing (CA) - Restorations, engine rebuild, and parts for racing and street Sevens (and a few other cars) - https://lotus7.com/Home.html Lee Chapman Racing (CT) - Parts for Sevens and other period Racers, primarily suspension - http://www.leechapmanracing.com/index.html Sevens & Elans (MA) - Rebuilder, sells cars and used parts - http://www.sevenselans.com/carsforsale.htm Redline Components (UK) - Top UK supplier specific to Sevens, with Lotus and Caterham - https://redlinecomponents.co.uk/ Tony Thomson Racing (UK) - supplier of bits for racing Elans - https://www.tonythompsonracing.co.uk/ Kelvedon Lotus (UK) - supplier of parts for Elites, Elans, Europa, Cortinas - https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/ SJ Sportscars (UK) - parts supplier of vintage and newer Lotus cars - https://www.sjsportscars.com/home.htm Mick Miller Lotus (UK) - parts for classic Lotus cars - http://www.mickmillerlotus.com/lotus-parts.html British Classic Spare Parts (UK) - parts for classic British cars - https://britishclassicspareparts.com Classic Team Lotus Parts (UK) - bought out Paul Matty, supplier of classic Lotus parts - https://www.parts.classicteamlotus.co.uk/ MEV Spares (UK) - parts for classic British cars - https://www.mevspares.co.uk/home.php Small Ford Spares (UK) - English Ford parts, incl Anglia 105E parts - https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/vehicles/ford-anglia-saloon-105e-106e-1959-to-1967 Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club (UK) - parts forb105Es - https://105eoc.com/spares/ Standard 8 & 10 Spares (UK) - parts for Standard 8s and 10s (S2 Sevens used Std 10 axle) - https://standard8n10spares.co.uk/ Standard Motor Club (UK) - parts for Standard cars - https://www.standardmotor.club/standard-8-10-etc Will look forward to what others might add to this list.