SENC

Great looking 7.

I'd also suggest joining and asking questions on lotuselan.net. That is probably the most active forum for Lotus twin cams and there are a good number of folks there with dry sump systems. Leaks at the timing case/head/block area are not uncommon for a number of reasons, including gasket failure... you'll find a number of threads on such at the aforementioned forum. Agree with JB that this is a lot of pressure, but I'm not familiar with dry sump systems so it may be typical.

Very nice!!

If we dont get it done this summer (agree, sun and heat can be brutal in these cars), perhaps a good idea for Fall. I have a daughter getting married in late November and a drive to/from Texas late Sept/early Oct, but between we should have some decent weather for a nice drive.

Well done! Thanks Slonie!

That and the wire wheels. Other than those, a great looking Seven!

This should help with proper weights for all the fluids. The entire manual is in the library, should you need it. I've been using Redline motor oil, gearbox oil, and diff fluid for years in my Seven and Elan.

I'm not exactly sure which position you're advocating, but you make good points for picking 1 and sticking with it rather than switching time twice a year. Doctors do agree with that position. As to whether it is DST or ST, who cares? Pick one and stick with it. I definitely agree it would be easier if all states were the same, but then the same argument could be made for having a singular time zone, which we manage to deal with just fine. Also not sure of the jab at Texas. Arizona and Hawaii already pick one time standard and don't change (they dont go to DST when the rest of the country does), so it seems to me there must be no federal law requiring switching back and forth. On a personal level, I'd like to see DST as the standard, but could live with either without impact (as, I suspect, could we all). More important to me is discontinuing the switching between - it has always befuddled me why our leaders, at federal and state levels, couldn't stir up the courage to tackle such a simple and beneficial change. And, yet, we expect them to tackle and resolve big issues. SMH.

Would love to get together, just say when. I've retired, so generally flexible unless we're traveling or have family visiting.

Would love to do this, but next weekend doesn't work great for me either (definitely would trailer to Greenville from Wilmington to avoid interstate time in my Seven, but my trailer is currently in the Raleigh area with a friend). Keep me posted when you try another drive. Henry

TLK - here are a couple threads from the se7ens.net mailing list that popped up when I searched the archives... you may find something useful. So far I've kept mine positive earth, just haven't found any good reason to change it. ________________ I changed the polarity on my seven because the rev counter I was going to use required it. All you have to do is repolarise the dynamo by just touching 12 volts from the battery across the field coil in the opposite direction.(and after you must connect the battery the other way round of course) This changes the residual magnetism in the unit and means that the current starts in the opposite direction when it just starts working. This current energizes the field coil with the field reversed and the unit works the other way. The field coil is between the small spade terminal on the dynamo and the body (ground). The opposite direction means that whatever ground you wish to have is connected to the body and the 'live' is touched onto the spade terminal a couple of times -just flicked over the surface. Job done! Since it is unbelievable is could be that simple, check it with your voltmeter before connecting it back into the cars wiring. -----Original Message----- From: JF Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 5:28 PM To: lotus at se7ens.net Subject: [Lotus] Lucas electrics, alternator conversions and positive ground I have to agree with JWW. We should leave the electrics as original as possible. While I understand the advantages of alternators, I enjoy watching the lights dim and brighten with the revs. It's further conformation that all is working correctly. The only area I'm considering changing on my Series 2 Seven (1965) is reversing the positive ground. And, here's why. A year ago I acquired an exhaust gas analyzer instrument which I've been told is the best route to figure the optimum jets on Webbers at various loads. Better than a rolling road I've been told. The problem is the instructions say it only works with a negative ground systems. Has anyone else changed from positive to negative ground on a Series 2? And if so, how did you do it and were there any problems? Jeremy SB2097 jww wrote: ><rant> I have two Sevens using all Lucas electrics. Both have >dynamos and regulators and thus far (in 3 years) I haven't >had a single problem. I use Lucas electics because that is >the original equipment for the car. > >IMHO I find that electrics in most restored Lotus Sevens 1957 >to 1973 have been badly re-installed during the restoration >process. Wiring should be neat and tidy and not like a >plateful of spaghetti behind the dashboard. The taped loom >should pass along and the various tails should just neatly >bridge from the loom to the relevent connection, usually a >matter of two or three inches. With that done problems are >easier to locate. > >I find all the Lucas electrical products in my cars are >totally reliable with the possible exception of the dynamo to >engine bracket on my Series Two which is a Ford item anyway. >Lucas have made electrical components for a great number of >British car manufacturers for the best part of a century. All >these companies cannot possibly be wrong!! > >The relatively small amount of electrical equipment in early >Sevens causes a comparatively light load on the battery if >installed properly. Unless you're planning the addition of >air conditioning, a 100 watt hi-fi and uprated headlights and >want these all on at the same time, you really don't need to >run an alternator. However, you would be prudent to regularly >check your battery levels and plug into a battery >conditioner. Remember most electrical problems on Sevens are >due to bad earthing. > >If you want a modern Seven, then get a Caterham, Westfield, >Locost, Robin Hood, or whatever. If you want the genuine >article, a Lotus Seven built in the 1960s, then why not run >it as they used to. As I've said, I've never had a problem. >Boy do you guys love 'improving' what are now 30 to 46 years >old and are after all classic sportscars. Be proud of them >and their idiosyncrasies!!!</rant> > >Cheers, > >JWW. _______________________ Hi all, I agree with Flemming. Original Series Two had mechanical Water Temp and Oil Pressure, just leaving Tacho if electric, swapping the wires over on the Ammeter and the dynamo ofcourse. Series One and America models used mechanical tachos which means just two jobs. Series Three and Four models were negative earth from the factory and I can't think of a single reason to change this! However one other thing: the earth side of the battery wants to be the forward post for clearance of the bonnet otherwise sparks will fly, so if you are changine polarity this should be remembered! Just my penn'th! JWW (snip) <<< There is no real good reason to convert back to a positive ground, unless you want your car to be as 'British' as it was when it left the factory. However, it is not as difficult as it may seem. Polarizing the generator is pretty simple, and can be done in about fifteen minutes, without even removing the generator from the car. Voltage regulator is not affected by a polarity change. Starter will turn the right direction with either polarity, so no rewiring is needed. An electronic tachometer will need to have the internals rewired for the correct polarity, but a mechanical tachometer will never know the difference. If you have an electrical temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, or a fuel gauge, you will need to replace these, but mechanical gauges will not be affected. Finally, if you have an ammeter, as originally fitted, you will need to switch the two wires on the back of the meter, or get used to the meter reading reverse of normal. The rest of the electrical equipment, e.g. lighting, horn, coil and distributor, etc. will not require any rewiring, but if you have an electronic ignition system, it will have to be replaced or rewired for the correct polarity. Electricity is pretty simple, if you know how it works, but if you don't, it is better to leave it alone, or to hand it off to someone who does. And remember the old rule: "If it works, don't try to fix it." -- Flemming >>>

The old se7ens.net mailserve is all but dead, but it is still out there and if you can join you can search old threads. That would likely be the best source of specific information. If you can't join and want, I can try to search for you.

Nice looking 7 that "looks" right. I'd have expected a higher asking price. I've not seen a Cosworth 1500 with anything but 2x Webers, though with these Lotus anything is possible. Or could be that someone just stuck a Cosworth cover on it.

I am afraid you are right, and that we're in for a bumpy road (at best).

Thanks Croc - interesting reading, though in summary it seems a wordy way of saying we really dont know the impact, yet. I'm fairly conflicted about all this. I'm inherently anti-tariff and pro free trade... but I also recognize that for decades the US has been going this route largely alone (though it, too, has been in the tariff/protectionist game on certain items). Economically I am all for allowing markets to determine where something can be made most efficiently - but recognize there are very real risks to the level of off-shoring that has occurred (and that foreign government subsidization, either directly or through cost controls have made an un-level playing field). In the end, in my opinion, using tariffs as a tool to bring back business will prove to be another failed tactic given the exceptionally high cost of doing business (producing products) in this country due to regulation and corporate taxation (including supply tariffs). Fix those and we still have a manpower problem that won't be resolved without immigration reform (that neither political party seems willing to address from an economic impact perspective). Ultimately, the national and global slowdown in population growth (and expected decline) are going to require radically different economic models that rely more on efficiency, productivity, and cost reduction than on growth. How we do that in an era demanding more investment to radically change power generation amd insisting on safety/risk reduction, I'm not sure.

Agree this seems most likely. And would add to JB's list of potential culprits the plates themselves (and/or where they land). The aluminum bodies can be worn and need a differently angled plate... or a PO may have made adjustments to the plate to try to fix something else and created an issue... or spindles slightly bent or bearings worn. Also agree that going back to balance/airflow is likely to be the most efficient way to circle in on your specific problem.

Unfortunately, no, I couldn't make it.

Whether silhouette or front-on, I prefer the minimalist approach. Headlights are part of the distinctiveness, to me, and worth the extra busy-ness - rollbars not as much (IMO).

I like that idea, too. There 7 someway mimics the sngle of the windshield.

I like simple too. I think I'd like green better than red... and someone with some artistic talent could do a lot better, but conceptually...

I'm no artist so can't draw or design it, but I've always thought the front view of the 7 was among it's most unique and distinctive. A more artistic rendering of the following that uses "USA" as the windshield and "7s" as the grill?

If they are Lotus 7 parts (vs Caterham - or other), you might reach out to Ted Taylor. He buys and resells parts for old Lotus, and is relatively close in Delaware, as I recall. http://taylormadeclassiccars.com/parts/lotuschassistypeparts.html I have no affiliation with Ted, but have bought a few used parts from him over the years. Otherwise, hopefully a MD-based member might see this and offer assistance.

The "2"s would be of that time. My 7 has "2"s with numbers matching the Lotus logbook.

I've had the same experience.

I'll be at my shop later this morning and will grab a couple pictures for you for comparison, but as others have suggested I think you'd have noticed other chassis or aluminum mods if they move things back 6". The most visibly obvious would be gearshift location in the car, exhaust outlet hole in port-side aluminum, and chassis/firewall entry point for the gearbox (I don't recall exactly, but I'm certain my gearbox couldn't go backwards anywhere close to 6" before fouling on the chassis).