SENC

I have a hard time wrapping my head around "exact ballpark". But I'd start by calling my agent and asking if SF offers an agreed value policy or even a stated value policy (and, if so, an explanation of how SF's defines the two and implications for settlement). You can also ask the agent if they can help determine approximate value under your current policy, but as that value is based not just on "value" but also depreciation (which is often subject to appraiser evaluation after an incident), I'd bet even if they could give you a ballpark it wouldnt be as exact as you want. Avoiding this ambiguity is the purpose of agreed value and stated value policies, which many insurers offer - I'd bet SF does, too.

The value is fluid, unless you select an "agreed value" type of policy where that value is set annually. The Hagerty policies I have on my 2 Lotus are agreed value, which amounts are stated in the policy documents. I also have elected their "cherished salvage", which gives me the guaranteed right to the vehicle should they deem it totalled.

Perpetuating the "all kit cars are dune buggies" myth?

Just looked at that and remember the discussion. At the end, they're both conjecturing that the relieving may have been for a later model Escort that had a different sized ring gear. Also note that 2cams says the machining he's seen appears factory-done. Bottom line... 105e, 109e, and 120e will fit the gearbox and block... but of the 3, only the 105e can fit a clutch larger than 7.5".

As for sources for the shifter, the best bets are probably Dave Bean (they may not have one, but Gary may have a lead for you) or checking with the Golden Gate Lotus Club and seeing if someone can ask if Mike Ostrov (Elite guru who also had a long history with Sevens) may have one. Or possible find a Cortina lever and cut it down.

William - the 105e is the one that has capacity for the larger 8" Twin Cam clutch. The 109e is the one typically found on early Sevens, and it has smaller internal dimensions (ribs are on the inside) and may need machining to handle a larger clutch than 7.5". I do know that some Elan owners have installed 8.5" clutch discs, even with the original Elan pressure plate. Whether a full 8.5" setup would fit in a 105e without modification, I do not know. I grabbed pictures of 105e and 109e bellhousings from the web for visual reference of each.

To Joe's point, we're probably all chasing without knowing HealeyRacer's intent. Specifically to the question of what is the right bellhousing (assuming it is for an Elan gearbox to twink)... the 105e bellhousing. Multiple others will fit the box, and multiple others will fit the engine block. But only the 105e (to my knowledge) will fit the larger Elan clutch and have the clutch slave carrier. As I stated earlier, a 109e bellhousing would work if a 7.25" or 7.5" clutch is in the cards. I probably got off track trying to answer his "guess" that it came from an Elan by digging deeper to suggest that, since it apparently is not, determing what it is and what gear ratios it has may impact whether the gearbox (as-is) is appropriate for his intent (which I assume is a Seven).

It 100% did not come out of an Elan... unless someone later changed the tailhousing. That notwithstanding, the bits within the gearbox changed even during the life of the Elan, requiring different baulk rings/blocker bars, different bushings and bearings, etc. There weren't a lot of changes, but the wearable parts are not necessarily interchangeable across the transitions. If the innards are in good shape and not too worn and if the gearing will meet your needs and all you plan to do give it a clean, then the above doesn't matter. But if it needs some work, as most of these now 50-60+ y-o boxes do, you'll want to avoid the hassle of wrong parts. EDIT - as I noted in an earlier post, the reason I'm confident this didn't come from an Elan is the shifter turret location (green). Elans did not have the tailhousing with that "port" - I'll grab a picture of one and post it, too. Elans had the shifter turret where the red arrow points. Older Sevens, like mine, that use (essentially) the same gearbox and tailhousing as the Elan required an add-on remote shifter. It bolted to the tailhousing where the red arrow it but moved the shifter back to the equivalent of the turret in your picture. Then, Ford made the tailhousing with the remote turret built-in and Lotus didn't need to the add-on. My recollection (but I havent looked this up in a while and could be mistaken) is that Ford made the tailhousing with remote built-in for the Escort. Lotus definitely used it in some Sevens. I don't have an Elan+2 so perhaps someone can chime in if that car used the remote shifter location, but the Elan did not. EDIT2 - additional picture - the middle tailhousing is the style used in Elans. The right has the built-in remote, like yours.. the left (I think) is for the Anglia.

Another clue to what the gearbox came from would be the gear ratios, which you probably want to know anyway before deciding whether to use it. Easiest way is probably to count the teeth on each gear. Also, both the gearbox casing and tailhousing should have stamped date codes (though internals could have certainly been rebuilt to other than original specs). There were multiple variants in the 2821 series, so get a good idea of what you actually have before ordering any bits if you are planning a rebuild.

Given the shifter turret in the back of the tail housing, this gearbox is not from an Elan. Post pictures of the various cast numbers on both the box and tails housing and we may be able to help identify it. Re: the bellhousing... a 105e or 109e bellhousing will fit to the pre-crossflow and twink engines (from a bolt-hole layout perspective). But which you need depends on the overall setup, including clutch). 105e belhousings (identifiable with external ribs) were used on the Elans as they provided more clearance for larger clutches. My S2 Seven has the 109e bellhousing (smooth exterior), which works just fine with the smaller 7.25" and 7.5" clutches. I'd recommend lotuselan.net for further research - there are lots of posts and pictures on gearboxes and bellhousings from folks with lots of experience with them. Pay particular attention to any post from "promotr", a long time rebuilder of EnFo gearboxes.

Nice work William! I have one recommendation for making it more valuable - add descriptions (and, ideally, pictures) of locations of the frame numbers across the manufacturers/series/dates. This question comes up here and on other forums from time-to-time and I think would benefit anyone attempting validate a car being sold. I fully understand John's position on sharing frame numbers, but general identification assistance would be valuable. Henry

And the clutch matrix from the same resource... If you don't have a copy, it is worth getting - I think Dave Bean still offers copies. If not and you want one, I think I may have a 2nd copy somewhere.

The Dave Bean catalogues also have a good bit of information. When I'm at the shop later this morning I'll see if I can grab a few pics from the English Racing Fords manual, my recollection is that it includes a detailed section on the various gearbox iterations.

No, mine is a 1500 Cosworth. No idea if the one I replaced was original, but it very well could have been. From the history I have on the car, I'm pretty confident it wasn't replaced post early 80s. Here is a pic just out of the car.

Found the purchases on Ebay history, but not much detail there. These had the same 7-1/4" clutch as the Anglia and Mk1 Cortina, as I recall. Borg & Beck/AP. Will keep looking and post if I find anything useful.

Mine was a 3-finger, and I found a NOS replacement (probably on ebay, but don't remember for sure). Pictures follow. I'll see if I have anything on my phone with detail/part numbers... if not will see what I have in my files next time I'm in my shop.

The required angle of the dangle... I was doing it alone, would definitely be easier with 2 - lots of little tweaks forward as the engine is lifted and tilted. Even tougher going back in alone. A piece of hose (cut lengthwise) helps protect the cross member. As mentioned above, definitely drain the gearbox first. The English Ford 105e and 116e (and 2821) gearboxes were originally used in Ford Anglias, Consult, and Corsairs, as I recall. I also believe a number of Morgan's had them fitted. The same were used in Elans of the period, though with different mounts. Most parts are still readily available, and rebuilding them is not terribly difficult. There were, however, changes throughout the line to the shaft, baulk rings, etc. so it is important to identify what tou have before finding replacement parts. I have some good notes somewhere on the various changes and differences if you go down the rebuild route and have questions.

Are they the correct sizes? There are (as with most old Lotus cars) conflicting information on these. The slave is consistently reported as 3/4", the master as either 3/4" or 5/8". I have 3/4" on mone, and it is definitely a very stiff pedal. Others have used a .7" or .625" to reduce pedal pressure required (but needs more pedal travel.

Agree with pretty much everything else Vov posted, but tongue weight is important regardless of tow vehicle. You may not feel the issue as much in a more competent vehicle, but missing materially on tongue weight matters from a safety perspective. I have a 14ft enclosed aluminum trailer (R&R custom built). Love it, easy to load and balances well. Weighs just over 2k lbs, as I recall, so well under 4k total with the Seven and fuel/tools loaded. Tandem axles and brakes all around. I've towed long distance with my wife's X3 (4,400 lb rating), and won't do it again. It is doable and safe if you get the balance right and stay below 60-65, but that isnt a safe speed if you're on the interstate (IMO). Definitely wouldnt do it without a camera in the back of the trailer for rear visibility on the highway. On the other hand, towing with my LR3 (7,700 lb rating) is a breeze and very comfortable (if the trailer is balanced), even up to 75 or 80. I still won't do a long trip without a rear camera - while visibility is loads better than the X3, the way people tailgate these days I'm just not comfortable without a clear view. The only time I've felt uncomfortable towing with the LR3 was when I loaded a Mercedes 560SL into the trailer and was right at my rated limit - I didn't go over 55 or 60 and stayed on back roads. I guess what I'm getting at is that I think you're headed towards a compromise solution (small vehicle, big trailer) that, while doable and safe (with effort), may be unsatisfactory if you're using it much or over long distances. Personally, if I were limited to our X3, I would 100% opt for the smallest, single axle, open trailer I could fit my Seven on, loading support gear into the X3. That would make towing many times more comfortable than pulling an enclosed.

@MV8 nailed it. You might check the master and slave cylinders to confirm they are correct.

Great advice from Mike, agree totally. Invest for 7%/year gains over the long run, and double your money every 10 years. Invest money you know you'll have no use for in the next 3-5 years... and forget about it, whether up big or down. If there is money you know you'll need in the next few years, squirrel that away into whatever short-term instruments offer the least risk (knowing you'll get much lower returns, targeting to at least match inflation). To the specific question, I agree the danger is in trying to guess market timing (and causes). In all likelihood, something other than what you expect will drive a major market move, and it could be in the opposite direction. Take a more disciplined approach... make a long-term decision on what your "cash" position should be to make you comfortable. That can be a range, say 3%-10% (not a specific recommendation), that gives you the ability to be more or less exposed/poised to buy. At 10%, for example, you'd need your other 90% investments to earn 8%+ to hit/exceed your target of 7% overall (if that 10% was truly in cash rather than earning something itself). Personally, I'm at the lowest end of my range most of the time. I'd rather have money working for me than sitting and waiting... and by having a good bit of dividend-producing stocks plus periodically selling investments to re-balance, there is always some cash to buy when opportunities present. As for buying/selling, my best advice is to average-in or average-out... ie., if you have $50k cash to invest or want to raise $50k in cash from investments, do it over a period of weeks or months rather than all at once.

Good question, but I think it would be tough - they wrap around pretty far on all 3 legs. It is a Brahma. I think Proven and others have something similar.

I've used this one for several years... it would take a real effort for someone to steal a trailer with this on. Not impossible, but it would definitely dissuade all but the most insistent and intentional. It's quick and easy to install and remove, and covers the lugnuts so the wheel can't be easily removed with the lock. The arms can be rotated for flat storage.

If you decide to stay mechanical.