Pokey

You are a truly a gentleman John! I have a thick skin and really would love to hear what you and others think.

I could use some second opinions. My Seven is red, obviously, with a black noseband. I thought silver and black stripes would look nice but after applying some of the vinyl I'm not quite sure. I like the silver on the sides, but the silver on the bonnet not as much. The other option is to do just black on the bonnet and nose cone as I have the material (I've laid it out in the pictures on the white transfer paper). Thoughts anyone?

I'm good, thanks guys. I wanted to avoid the waste of shipping something back to Amazon so was hoping the manufacturer could send me the correct tubing, but this thing is going back Monday.

Ever get to the point in a project where you just stop caring about how much shipping costs? I (finally) received the fasteners to mount the side view mirrors to the doors, but despite ordering an assortment I managed to not get what I need. I'm done playing around so ordered some windshield stanchion mounted Racetech mirrors from Demon Tweeks and upgraded to fast shipping. Received the vinyl for stripes yesterday and hope to apply this weekend. Also received the mounting box for the replacement battery. Since I don't have a heater installed I was able to move the battery to the firewall and as far away from the heat of the engine as possible. And after having read about how to change the oil in a dry sump setup on lotus7.club I bit the bullet and purchased a fluid extractor from Amazon. Got that yesterday too and immediately noticed that the 41" tubing was actually 16" which by my eye would be about 8" too short to reach the bottom of the oil tank. I've had really good experience with purchases from Amazon over the years so I guess I had this coming, but the email to the manufacturer's customer service bounced and when I called the message was for a different company, so clearly I didn't pick wisely. That extractor is getting returned and I've ordered another of a different brand.

Long ago I worked in the nuclear waste industry and remember thinking it made no sense to talk about the cost of nuclear energy without factoring in the cost of storing the waste indefinitely. I wonder what the social, economic and environmental cost of battery production and disposal is relative to oil extraction and refining?

Yes, sorry, I was sloppily munging things together. I was attempting to say that tech gets big multiples on EBITDA too, and the chase for the next unicorn also results in multiples on revenue without profit. So what makes Tesla unique isn't its valuation but that it has that kind of value in a market that isn't tech. Then again, maybe Tesla really is tech and so this all makes sense! BTW, no criticism intended for anyone who has purchased Tesla stock as you are obviously smarter than I am.

In tech a company's value is many multiples of EBITDA, often without regard to whether that revenue results in profit. I think tech investors like novelty, bragging rights and the idea of getting in on the bottom floor. To me Tesla is an (extreme) version of this, and with every manner of manufacturer entering the (small) BEV market it is hard to see Tesla having any future dominant role. But then again I didn't buy Tesla so maybe I'm just bitter...

Very soon, and looking forward to it. An interesting tidbit, I tried to get an appointment with the Washington State Patrol for a VIN inspection and there are no slots available. I'll keep checking as they may only schedule a few days out at a time, but I checked a variety of stations throughout the state just to see if it mattered. Their website warns of long delays due to layoffs related to COVID. So for the foreseeable future I might be pulling 3-day trip permits and binge driving.

It has been a while since I’ve updated but for good reason as not a lot has happened. I had been waiting for a fuel line retaining clip for securing the fuel line to the fuel pump sender. This is a one-of-a-kind item that I suspect Caterham had to scavenge from a pump they had in inventory as neither Bruce nor I could find a supplier. The fuel pump was manufactured for the European version of the Focus built for a limited time earlier this century . Seriously though, this item is hard to find and Plan B was a different pump assembly or a purchase used off of ebay.uk. Bruce hand delivered the clip Monday night in a celebratory moment for both of us - what a guy! While Bruce was here he also re-flashed my ECU. The car had been hard to start and was misfiring with one cylinder getting the lion share of the fuel. It now purrs, but the story is a little more complicated. After about the fourth perfect start yesterday the engine misfired again, but this time the ECU threw an error code. That led me to reconnect the crank position sensor, and for good measure I also reconnected the ECU and the TPS, but the error was “bad crank tooth count” hence the emphasis on the crank sensor. About six more starts at varying engine temperature and the misfiring has yet to repeat. So that is my description of the issue and the resolution, just please don’t ask me to explain as I’ve no clue. Since the last update I’ve also applied SunTek protective film to various strategic locations. I’ve never applied film before and wanted to try something new. I purchased the film from a supplier in the UK who pre-cuts the pieces - thanks kayentasker. I still have the nose cone to go but that will wait until after I apply the vinyl stripes. Let’s see, the only other thing I can think of that might be worth mentioning is I replaced the battery that came with the kit. I left the ignition on overnight and killed two of the six cells. Researching batteries led me to the PC680, but in the end I purchased a lithium option. I’ve been using lithium batteries in my off-road motorcycle for a few years now and while the first battery didn’t last long I’ve had good luck since. And, no, I’m not being a weight-weenie although the weight savings is a nice benefit, but what I do love about lithium batteries is no more plugging into a tender and tripping over the extension cord. While the plan was always to finish in June so as to have a project throughout the dreary spring months of the Pacific Northwest, here it is July so I’m officially itching to wrap it up. What remains is: 1. Install side view mirrors. The kit lacked the fasteners so I ordered a few options from a new-to-me online supplier that seems to be a bit slow, but hopefully I’ll see the delivery this week. 2. Install the rear wings. Wings are prepped and ready to go, but I’m waiting to install until after applying the vinyl stripes. 3. Vinyl stripes. I hadn’t ordered with stripes but after seeing an example of the Donington Edition done by Herbert’s Vinyls in the UK (https://www.facebook.com/herbertsvinyls/photos/a.902259599840135/1722481941151226) decided to give them a try. The package was in Illinois as of yesterday.

I had to take off 1/4" from one blade and 1/2" from the other which is fine, but the problem is the blade arm doesn't grip the wiper motor knobs tight enough to prevent slippage. The knurling on the motor knobs is nice and sharp, but the knurling in the aluminum casting of the arms is rounded and somewhat indistinct. Basically they seem to be mismatched. I asked Bruce and he has never had an issue but is going to check his inventory so we can compare stampings on the arms. Perhaps Caterham changed suppliers recently, dunno.

Question about wipers. I cut down to length and installed but the knurling isn't enough to prevent slippage. This renders the blades useless and worse, as it catches occasionally so when I tested it forced a blade past the windshield and made a small scratch in the paint. I had lubricated both the rubber of the blades and sprayed soapy water on the windshield prior. I'd rather have the motor burn out than have the blades slicing and dicing paintwork. Is this "normal" for a Caterham?

Makes sense, thank you.

Just want to say thanks Bob for sharing. I'm a relatively new member but it didn't take me long to find this thread. Where we live there is/was a regular weekly gathering (Redmond Town Center), and today would be the Greenwood Car Show in Seattle where several blocks of a city street are closed off to display hundreds (last year 750) cars from classics to rat rods. Can't remember when the family and I last missed that show as it is my birthday event, so wife and (now) grown children attendance is mandatory. Your pictures are the next best thing to being there. Thanks again.

Just ordered the cable from SBD Motorsports. They either manufacture or work closely with the manufacturer of the ECU. The cable is more than a cable as it does some signal processing that in conjunction with their (free) software Easimap provides access to all codes. Happy to update with what I learn if there is interest, but imagine it will be a few days for the cable to get here from the UK. I have a cable and software from another manufacturer but it won't even recognize the ECU. Didn't like the idea of spending $200 on a cable for an ECU I'm not convinced I'll keep in the mid- to long-term, but don't really have much choice short of replacing the ECU now. Oh well...

Can't suggest a flex head as I don't have one, but if you are struggling with space you could get a set of torque adapters or use your wrenches with: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/motion-pro-adjustable-torque-wrench-adapter.

Well... yesterday I thought I'd idle it for a bit while I worked on other things, and low and behold the problem is back. I can force it to idle rough at about 1300 - 1400 rpm but otherwise stalls. Runs rough in general, but better at higher revs, and the #4 header is discolored while the other three look near new. Lambda connected or disconnected has no impact. I've reached out for Bruce in hopes he's seen this before. I've found the cable and software used with these particular ECUs. Spendy for what it is so haven't pulled the trigger yet.

You guys are so cynical. I'm sure it sticks so well because of all the downforce generated at 300 MPH.

Things seem to have cleaned out so I don't *think* it is injector related. Time will tell.

+1 for being in the same general neighborhood - Bruce's shop is about 15 minutes door to door. As I sit here looking out at the drizzle, after a night of being woken multiple times by very heavy rain, it strikes me that this is a very odd place to become a nexus of Seven's in the US. But then again they originate in England so perhaps this is the way it is supposed to be...

You know that rings true to me - that the ECU was trying to compensate for the reduced fuel pressure the first time we attempted to start the engine and the second attempt with normal fuel pressure required the ECU to take some time to find the right fuel/air mix. Thanks I B, I feel better having at least a working hypotheses.

Thanks! Good to know what those wires in the bay are used for. Guess I'll go inverted and see if I can find the other end somewhere behind the gauges. I read somewhere that a common mod is to wire in a switch so the coolant temperature gauge can double as a gauge for oil temperature.

Hey Squeegee (you need to explain that nickname at some point), thought I'd share the build blogs I've found helpful: https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/ https://caterham420rbuild.com/ https://caterham360build.co.uk/ https://www.caterham7diaries.com/ http://caterhamsevenbuild.blogspot.com/ https://www.purplemeanie.co.uk/ http://www.simplesevens.org/

With the lamda sensor connected does it run well at higher engine speeds? If so it sure sounds like the lamda sensor. Interesting that Caterham sent you a new ECM. They must have thought that they installed the wrong map. How are you reading the codes?

That intake and your custom headers really make a conversation piece!

Never mind. I cleaned the #4 plug and put the plugs back in the order they came out but swapped the #1 and #4 coils. Started and still rough. Unplugged the lamda sensor and idle was all over the place. Plugged the lamda back in and idle calmed down and seemed close. Adjusted the idle set screw a bit more and now it idles smoothly. Glad whatever the problem was is gone, but am not a fan of mysterious self-healing problems. What is the correct idle speed on these Duratec's anyway? At 900 RPM it lopes a bit and at 1200 it is smooth but seems to be too fast to my ear. Last night I was researching how to pull error codes and found the SBD MBE-MAP-KIT-3-CAN kit. Don't really need to go to this extent to get the idle set, but maybe handy to have?