SkinnyG

Hahahahaha. No worries. If'n you're doing a blat to the Alaskan panhandle: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyder,_Alaska

As in Stewart BC? I used to live there! Did you get Hyderized?

When I bought my scuttle from RMSCI, they told me they are all the same shape. Referencing Lotus drawings as well as the Prince drawings, the S2 chassis is 22-3/4" from the bottom of the frame to the top of the scuttle hoop. Caterhams have a taller nose than S2s, by about an inch, which may account for the taper.

And no mile-long smoke show in the video. Very disappointing.

I think it's fantastic technically. I think it's Bugly aesthetically. If it were a '32 3-window highboy ~I'd~ be all over it.

Fantastic! Thank you! We're getting there.... http://gwellwood.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSC01481-480x360.jpg

Can anyone tell me what the rear stay and diagonal tubes are in diameter? The main hoop looks 1.5" in pics - are the others 1.375?" Thanks.

Why not just fix the problem? Removal of the cat is illegal in most places in the world, and keeping it helps us do our part to take care of the beautiful air we breathe on this planet. You will have a check engine light all the time - the computer continually checks to make sure the cat is there and doing its job.

Any pictures? They would help.

Curtis Unlimited sells clams in stock width and +3" widths (which I run on the Locost - follow the link to my website below for pics). They are S2 style, with a wee cove for the front bonnet clasp, but they work fine. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Curtis-Unlimited/163756193652207 They are a neat mom & pop kind of business. When I bought in '05 ($85 a piece), they shipped first, and billed later. Cool. And rare to see that kind of business approach. I'd buy from them again. The 'glass will need some prep and refinement to bring it to perfection, but I'm happy enough with the fit and price.

Can some of you show a picture of the filler tube shape, indicating what works and what doesn't? ie: is the filler tube into the tank a bent 90°, or straight but angled into the tank? Can we find what works well?

..... a most definite probably.

If he's after the doors, I may be interested in the top.

When I documented going MegaSquirt and ITB's in my Locost, someone (I believe from DIY AutoTune) posted the tuning details of a crate Zetec w intake & header: http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/lethal-locost-goes-megasquirt/8505/page2/ The spark advance table: http://diyautotune.com/images/tech/tune-map-examples/futrell-zetec-itb/futrell_zetec_itb_ignition.gif I've used DIY AutoTune's 4AGE spark maps for my Locost and they worked really well.

Thoroughly enjoyable episode!

When I brought each newborn boy from the hospital, I showed them the 7 and said "this is the car you will never drive." From now on for them, it's just review.

I'm building a 7 clone based on Lotus 7 Series 2 plans. Soon I will be working on motor mounts. Is there a distinct advantage to the Caterham style mount (fastener in tension, using the equivalent of a Jag XK motor mount) or to the birkin mount (fastener in shear, poly bushing)? Caterham: http://www.biggles.net/images/duratec/e0018.jpg Birkin (sorry for the large hot-linked pic): http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i7WJcwuFDTQ/TZr913i4LvI/AAAAAAAAAEg/VmsjGaCrViM/s1600/IMG_0073.JPG Thanks in advance.

On my Locost I put a 5/8" on the rear, and 3/4" on the front (more pressure to the rears - less weight on the front).

On most of the cars I've worked with, temperature control is merely an adjustable blend of unheated air and heated air. As the engine and interior warm up, I keep the temp on HOT, so there is no "cooler" air bypassing the heater core - I want ALL the heat in the air that I can get. Once the interior is warm, I'll drop the temp from HOT to wherever comfortable is (thereby allowing some outside air to bypass the heater core and mix in). Other cars control temperature by limiting the amount of hot coolant through the heater core. I would think you'd want ALL the hot coolant going there to speed things up a bit. An oven element (or even your house furnace for that matter) only has ON. Temperature is controlled by cycling ON with OFF to maintain the desired temperature. Most cars do not work that way. Mind you, you mentioned that the fan is not on until the engine is warm. I am not an HVAC engineer, but I imagine you'd still need to expel the cooler air in the interior.

7 not raw enough? How about a wheel suit? http://youtu.be/9i7gH9BtUs8

Thanks so much!

No, this is a picture of my car: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/DSC04259.jpg It's not really a Caterham, so I'd have to decline.

Here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/Misc/pedalbox.jpg I'm after a standard chassis, if there is a difference. L/RHD should be the same.

Can someone throw a tape measure on one of these, and tell me what the overall length is? http://home.btconnect.com/gwiddicombe/kitcar/Pics/IMG_2685.jpg Early Lotus were about 6", but this looks longer - maybe 9"? Thanks.

Damn you. Now ~I~ want one.