SkinnyG

Yes, BC is that way - it will be the year it is registered. Wait long enough, it will be a 2013 even

Gary used to come out this way a lot a few years ago. I had corresponded with him when I was building my Locost, and he took my Locost out for a drive once it was finished. Very knowledgeable and helpful guy. A bit of a wacked sense of humour too!

I have my CP set to email me as well, but none arrive. Yes, my email is correct, yes I check the spam filter. Nothing.

If they were on a 240Z, the pattern would be 4x114.3

Years ago I bought a set of used RA-1's that were outside, on the car, on the open trailer, in the snow. They took me to autocross "Class Champion" and "Top Gun," in the car I had at the time (against V700's and A032R's). They did not crack. I understand that the R888 may use the same compound..... But I would store them in the house, not out in the cold. I currently store my slicks (one set Goodyear, one set Hoosier) in the basement.

You could get any more durable axle, and have the housing shortened to fit, and axles modified or made with the correct width and bolt pattern. Moser Engineering shortened and re-splined a pair of 10-bolt Chevy axles for another car I'm building - it was reasonably cheap.

No, they know exactly where they are going.

I've seen some folks get a license plate "sticker" made, same colours, font, and reflective background as the required plate. Stick this across the top of the nose a'la the UK?

There are copies of Lotus 7 chassis drawings at http://www.diyse7ens.com. Originals used mainly 1" and 3/4" round tube, with a few pieces of 1", 3/4" and 5/8" square tube. All 18ga. The locost is over-built compared to an original (more 1" tube, and 16ga), but (probably) less triangulated than a modern Caterham. I can see their concern, as according to most GCR's the Caterham roll bar (and chassis) is pretty insubstantial, especially in the roll bar mounting. If Caterhams are allowed at your track, the locost should be. They're just trying to cover their ass and protect yours.

You only need to beat The Cowboy.

In BC, nowhere does it say you have to have a windsheild. It ~does~ say vehicles with windshields must have wipers and a two-speed defrost. The ultimate decision falls to the inspector. Whether you get hassled on the street or not, depends on the cop. It's just not fair.

Yup. Wow. Lethal Locost's new frame is largely .050"

Cool! Thank you.

Is there a link/picture to this part? I am interested.

It found me, my boss, and Piglet, but not Carroll Smith.

Do these help? Alberta Info (LocostUSA) Meeting Alberta Regs (LocostUSA) (sorry for the off-list links, but we're all in this together)

Are ~all~ the bushings good? Are you running out of travel? Are the upper trailing arms horizontal (or angling down at the front) at rest?

If it's the same as a Series 2, I'll take it.

When I built my locost had the masters up front near the exhaust. I later changed to reverse-mount masters and a balance bar. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/DSC00137.jpg

I'd like to see how these compare (I think they are what you're after): 61-71 Jaguar XKE Beck/Arnley #1040450 http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Finfo.rockauto.com%2FBeckArnley%2F1040450.jpg&imagekey=476197-0&width=450

My co-driver and I ran a set of Goodyear slicks from brand new for 3 autocross events before they felt like they were going off. Worked out to something like 15 minutes of runs. I continued to run them for two full seasons. I'm currently running used Hoosiers that I soak in a mix of 50% Xylene and 50% Toluene. I already have my kids, so I'm not worried about birth defects.

I run Sumitomo HTR 200's for the street on my locost. The sidewalls are very soft, and it is NOT a performance tire. It's a decent driving tire, but not a performance tire at all. They are, indeed, super cheap. I would not buy them again either.

You could probably change the oil at any time. I'm not sure if keeping the oil in longer is beneficial. If it up and ran, don't be afraid to give it some stick. Working the engine is good for the engine. Once it's broken in and no longer burning oil (meaning: the rings have seated), you can go right to synthetic oil. Keep an eye on it to make sure it isn't leaking (it's more slippery).

My only experience has been MegaSquirt. The tuning of any system will be similar, but support/simplicity/documentation could be a factor for you. I'll do MegaSquirt on my next engine.