fnmag58

Hi Geran, I'm not to far away from you--live here in Stafford, VA. I have a restored 1982 Caterham with a Super Sprint Xflow that you can come and look at at any time. Car is not for sale, but can give you a lot of lessons learned, feedback, ride and drive, etc. You should also try to contact Bob Drye--he's in Springfield and take a look at his car--i think the supercharger is bigger than the engine!!!! In the Northern VA area, there are a few of us that make a great support group.

I have a used scuttle and firewall if you are interested. Where are you located?

Does anyone have a set of good used Primary Pipes(header) for a 1700 Xflow. Caterham number CSP028S or CSP130. I have a RH drive car so prefer the CSP028S. Thanks

we need to do this again real soon--somebody want to start guessing at a date and location?

Hi Ian, If there is still one available, I'd like one. I have a FedEx account number that i can send you. Thanks, Sal

well i took my wife for a quick ride the other day--it was just above 40--she agreed that it was "refreshing" and held her hands above the exhaust system at the intersections. She also concluded that i was "nuts"--whatever that means!! So next time, I'll wait until its 45!!

i built one of these a few years back and i did so for a specific reason. My car came mostly disassembled and all the parts were just loaded into boxes. As i built the model, i sorted the parts boxes and got them organized. Really helped a lot when i started to reassemble the car. No I am not joking--the model really did help a lot.

Does anyone have a Xflow header -- not worried about the condition--that i could borrow or rent for a couple of weeks? My 1700 is about finished and will be tuning it on the dyno before i install in the car. I will pay all shipping charges both ways and will take responsibility for it if anything happens. Thanks very much. Sal :7fume:

LOL--you guys always make me laugh--yes i did use high-temp grease and it didnt come out of a Loctite tube!! I'm thinking i should plug the vent hole at the bottom of the tranny near the inspection cover and fill it with oil--go for the wet-clutch version. What do you think? Should be one "smokin'" hot clutch!! With the unusually warm weather around here, I'll try a few more trips and see what happens.

Interesting points. I always start it with the tranny in neutral now and check to see if it will go into gear. If not, I use the third gear method. Throw out bearing is new and lubed both the arm and bearing guiding surface. It is a standard Ford type replacement--nothing hi-perf at this point. I also did use a clutch alignment tool. I dont think i bent the center of the disk but this has got me thinking of something to look at if i have to remove the engine and tranny. What's puzzeling about this is that the first shake-down runs, before the radiator went bad, were fine--nothing at all for weeks. Then this started after it sat for about 6 weeks. I'm just hoping that a few more trips, shifting, and 1st gear starts might just work the kinks out. I've only ever seen this once on--was on a British car--and after about a week of driving it stopped completely. If I do have to remove the engine/tranny, a better hi-perf after-market will go in.

Need some help on this one. I have a situation where if my car sits for more than a day, the clutch disk sticks to the flywheel. When you depress the clutch pedal and bumping the key, you're not quite sure what to expect--I've learned to make sure there's nothing behind it. The cure has always been to put the tranny in 3rd and bump the key one more time--this frees it every time. The clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, and pilot bearing are all new. The flywheel has been reground. No rust, etc when i put it together and i did lightly grease the tranny input shaft before assembly. Due to radiator problems, i have only driven the car about 20 mile this year but now that I've got that fixed, this has shown up. Once it's free, no problems the rest of the day, no grinding during shifts. Any ideas? Car is a 1982 S3 with the Xflow with the 4 spd sport box tranny. Thanks.

Need some help on this one. I have a situation where if my car sits for more than a day, the clutch disk sticks to the flywheel. When you depress the clutch pedal and bumping the key, you're not quite sure what to expect--I've learned to make sure there's nothing behind it. The cure has always been to put the tranny in 3rd and bump the key one more time--this frees it every time. The clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, and pilot bearing are all new. The flywheel has been reground. No rust, etc when i put it together and i did lightly grease the tranny input shaft before assembly. Due to radiator problems, i have only driven the car about 20 mile this year but now that I've got that fixed, this has shown up. Once it's free, no problems the rest of the day, no grinding during shifts. Any ideas? Car is a 1982 S3 with the Xflow with the 4 spd sport box tranny. Thanks.

I just ask for parts for a 1972 Pinto 1.6L. Generally just about anything is available, my biggest problem was finding an oil pump. A lot of on-line stores, like Rock Auto have a lot of engine parts--nothing high peformance--just the basics. There's always Dave Bean and BAT--top shelf parts at both locations.

http://local.yahoo.com/info-12492713-starbucks-potomac?csz=Potomac%2C+MD 10,100 River Road, Potomac, MD 20854 for those of us that have GPS.

Bob and Sal will join in--see you at 10:30.

David, I did shop around and located a dealership in North Carolina. I suggest you work with the same company that has their shop in Arizona(Pack Racing). Regarding the balancing, my tires had the locating dot from the factory that alignes the tire in relationship to the valve stems. If you have the dots and the right folks who will take their time, little weights are needed. Locally, I used Bob Drye, he took his time and i have less than 2 ounces per tire!! For the 185's, 6 is the right size, a 7" rim will make them ballon out some. I wouldnt do that but it is your car--i understand the "use what you have" and buy biger next time. I went with the standard regular finish with the clear coat. I purchased mine from Mr. Bennett French at The British Connection--he can be reached at: thebritishconnection@yahoo.com I do need to recal the speedo as i went from 185/70 to 215/5's.

Hi DB6, I went to the 7" to fit the new tires(P215-50R13) that came with the car as part of the "package of parts." The price difference was minimal. When i said machined, the company i purchased them from imports "blanks" from Australia--all they have to do is set them up on the CNC and machine in your choice of PCD and lug size. I was concerned about this but i am happy to say that the total runout measured was less than 0.002 on all four rims--and yes they came with center caps, lug nuts, and valve stems. These are the standard polished rims with clear coat. I chose these based on conversations with other 7 folks and the US based company. I have friends in Australia who verified the quality of the rims and acceptance by the local racing community. The other reason i purchased these was for the off-set. These rims have a backspace of 3.75" which gives me plenty of clearance around the suspension system. Other rim manufacturers had less which had me concerned--less overloads the brearings. I believe that for the tire size i am running, a bit more ~ 4 will still be acceptable. My car also was born in 1982, has the Ital axle, sounds like a duplicate of yours!! I am building a 1700 right now. The only information you need to tell the supplier is the PCD which, for your car is 4 X 95.25 with the 3/8 lugs(see earlier post). Let me know if you need additional data or help--took me a while to piece this all together. Sal

if you can't touch the coil, there is something wrong--a coil should be warm but not hot. As the coil gets hotter, it's capability to rapidly produce high voltage rapidly decreases. They do self destruct if there is not enough oil inside. Check to make sure your wiring connections are clean and not corroded--high resistance thru poor connections will cause this. I relocated mine to the front of the foot well--no problems with heat at all. Also check the resistor--some are external to the coil--again check for high resistance. Your coil should have a primary resistance of around 1 ohm, the external resistor should be in the 3 ohm range. Secondary coil resistance should be in the 11K ohm range.

So my set-up is 110 mains, 180 air corrector, F16 emulsion, and 45F9 Idle. This is the way it came from Caterham for my 1600 Xflow. Seems to run fine up to about 2500-2700 RPM and then it starts backfiring thru the carbs. When i pull out the choke cable, it clears up completely. So my question is: Do i go up in size on the mains--115? 120? or do i go up in size on both the mains and the AC? I'm thinking i need to go to 115 mains and 200 AC? Thoughts?

Mazda, I used aluminum body rivets with steel pull pin. Made them real tight and strong and lower weight. BTW: Do you have a bunch of Clecos? I have about 50 and the tool if you need to borrow them. Add RTV as you need to seal everything and keep the panel drum down. I would also recommend adding the support washer on the end of the rivet prior to popping it in place. We could have a riveting party at your house. Between all of us, we could probably get it in place in a short amount of time. For mine, it was 3--two to hold it up in place while i inserted the Cleco's and then just two for the riveting operation(1 rivets while the other held the washer in place).