KnifeySpoony
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Everything posted by KnifeySpoony
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The voltage can be measured either at the back of the TPS connector or through easimap. When I first built my car I did not have easimap and set the 4.62V via multimeter at TPS. I have since adjusted it multiple times via easimap, which is infinitely easier. I have never measured back to back from plug to easimap to see how close the numbers correlate. I forget what voltage it is at WOT.
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Any additional support from CC/MBE?
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Yeah that should seem pretty straightforward. Seems like the use tax is at some rate similar to sales tax?
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Yep if your dips are correct, but it's still misreading, it may be something with the tune - however you could try other dip settings to compensate? During my initial build/shakedown I was able to reflash multiple times myself until all issues got sorted. No sure if you're sending it out for updates or doing it yourself. I'm not sure about the throttle site - I never paid attention to it. I just set the idle voltage to 4.62 per my setup instructions. Not sure with your different ECU.
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TBH I don't even know what "use tax" even means. At my first DMV visit I paid usual CA sales tax, then standard reg fees when I actually registered after BAR approval. No other taxes were requested.
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The entire "ribbed" ring is the "nut" that holds the gauge up against the dash. Just rotate it and it will unscrew. Based on a tickle of the throttle solving your idle, I would adjust your TPS in the appropriate direction to mimic that at idle throttle position, rather than actually opening up the barrels more at idle. Have you run it to redline at WOT? The sound from the intake is really something else.
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the dipswitches are inside the grommet through with big cable exits
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I'd be curious to see/hear a vid of it idling. Is it rough as in uneven/stumbling etc? Excessive vibration? Or just "sounds" rough. With the ITBs you will def get a harsher sound at idle. The tach issue is just based on how the tach pulses are meant to be coded/read by the tune. Mine was off from new as well for my RBTB tune. Let me know if you can't find the dipswitch info.
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My guess is the idle issue is a map issue. The barrels should be pretty well sync'd from factory, but then again, you had your other issue so all bets are off I guess. How is it behaving at idle? Does it run/pull fine elsewhere? Re: tach - that should be an easy fix. Will need to set the dipswitches on the back of the tach to appropriate setting. Search this forum to find the switch settings.
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Congrats. Once you hear that sound it's hard to go back...
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Surprised the TPS isn't on their shelf. If you're anxious to keep making progress, i have a spare one sitting here.
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Yeah you have to make sure the potentiometer is in the correct orientation before attaching to the intake. You can pick one up at any Ford dealer/parts dept.
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Out of curiosity - did your kit come with a grommet for the MAP sensor? I had to modify one to make my own. What do you mean about the TPS being 90deg off? As in the orientation of your sensor is different than in photos?
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Although it is a Titan-made assembly, branded Caterham, I think it is the same as used by Cosworth on the 2.3 motors. I too used the Cosworth assembly instructions and the parts in the photos look identical to what I got from CC and the instructions were appropriate.
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I would not modify a brand new $5000 part...
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If you wanna bring it up here we can compare to mine and see if we can troubleshoot.
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#2? is pretty cool
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You would have to be careful if you just loosen the throttle body assemblies; the little silicone noodle gaskets are not held in well and can easily fall out of position. I would just take them off completely. and make sure you understand the rotation of the barrel and getting it indexed properly when placing onto the head.
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Hard to tell from the pics. I can't really see where the cable is routed. It is possible to have the barrels rotated the wrong way around and still route throttle cable. I'd pull them off and make sure you have then indexed in the right position when mounting to the head.
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Something definitely not right re: inability to open barrels all the way. Can you take a pic of it as it sits? I have seen pics of people routing the throttle cable incorrectly. re: bonnet cutout - I have the CC template, but it leaves a big gap posteriorly to allow for the factory carbon airbox. If you want it to be just big enough for the filter, you'll need to do a custom job.
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Effective wind deflector/buffeting reduction?
KnifeySpoony replied to Cueball1's topic in General Sevens Discussion
Your face won't burn in a full face helmet... -
No rush. Enjoy the roller barrels! If you need a sheet metal cutter I have a pneumatic nipper that worked great on my bonnet. You're welcome to grab it. Re: roller barrel map, it seems the consensus is the CC map is quite good. People say it's better than the plenum map. I certainly don't have any issues with it nor long for improvement.
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Most new caterhams come with a 260mm wheel which is significant smaller.
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A lowered floor does not really reduce the ground clearance. It will give you a lot more room in the cockpit and under the wheel though. It's a popular factory option nowadays.
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bigger project, but you probably want lowered floor
