KnifeySpoony

Your face won't burn in a full face helmet...

No rush. Enjoy the roller barrels! If you need a sheet metal cutter I have a pneumatic nipper that worked great on my bonnet. You're welcome to grab it. Re: roller barrel map, it seems the consensus is the CC map is quite good. People say it's better than the plenum map. I certainly don't have any issues with it nor long for improvement.

Most new caterhams come with a 260mm wheel which is significant smaller.

A lowered floor does not really reduce the ground clearance. It will give you a lot more room in the cockpit and under the wheel though. It's a popular factory option nowadays.

bigger project, but you probably want lowered floor

The sender for the gauge and the sender for the ECU are in different locations, so I would expect some difference between the readings, but not sure how much.

I have a digital (Spa designs) gauge on my 420R. At steady state while moving faster than say ~35mph, water temp is extremely steady at 197, no matter the ambient temp. At slower speeds the temp climbs. In stop/go traffic, or idling at a light in warm weather, temp will rise until 209, then the fan kicks on, then it will continue to rise until it peaks at around 213 or so, then dip down to 205 when the fan kicks off, then the cycle continues.

Is your goal to pass sound at Laguna? I've heard that style airbox doesn't do much for sound. I think this style is better for sound containment. Not sure how it will fit with a LHD pedalbox arrangement. May need a different shaped filter.

I was involved in an incident at Sonoma yesterday, sustained some light damage to my left front wheel/wing. Video of incident and pics below. After the incident while driving back to the paddock, the steering wheel was turned slightly to the left (maybe 10 degrees?) to travel in a straight line. Looking at the front suspension after the incident, there was no play in the wheel/hub. Everything seemed tight. I don't see anything obviously bent. Steering arms looks straight, but there is a slightly shiny area on the front left arm (tried to photograph it). I don't know if this is just an irregular area in the casting, or if it is evidence of bent/stretched metal there. You can see from the video that the right front was hit as well, but only on the inside of the tire sidewall. Before driving home from the track, I adjusted the toe on the left front (just by feel, testing by driving up/down the paddock) until the car tracked straight. I had to turn the tie rod about 1.5 turns (pushing the steering arm outward (pushing the toe out on the left front, which I figured was necessary given the prior steering wheel position). Today I checked the toe with the steering wheel straight and there is 1/2" (12mm) of toe out. Previously the car was set for zero toe. So I'm not sure what exactly was bent, or what I should replace. Should I just realign it and run as is? Or do I need to replace the steering arm(s)? Anything else that could've been damaged? The steering seems smooth but could the rack be damaged? There was a slight shimmy in the wheel at freeway speeds on the way home, speed dependent, felt like a tire slightly out of balance. The wheel itself is scuffed but looks straight though might not be. Or it could just be tires flat spotted. Thanks!

Can't wait to try mine. Will be at Sonoma this sat and sun trying to use up my A64s then will swap to the 333. Should try them at Laguna in October. Temps will be cool.

Glad you found the issue. Although pic not working for me. And RBTB... Hell yes...

We could hook up my ECU with incorrect tune. I assume it won't run but we can do a quick crankover to see if it will spark...

Gotcha. Fwiw my loom failed at less than 2k mi. But clearly not your issue. Try a new ecu?

Not to doubt you, but how do you know for sure there is no spark on #1?

Yeah maybe coil 1 was bad, then whatever caused it to fail then caused coil 2 to fail after moving it to that spot. I don't know if that's possible though. Swap coil 3 in to see if the pattern continues...

Did you try swapping injectors and coils yet?

I don't doubt that there could be a secondary issue. Perhaps the TPS voltage is interacting with whatever that is. Rotating the TPS while idling immediately bumps the idle speed though. My ambient air/pressure and coolant values in easimap look good with the car cold in garage - I haven't checked hot.

I can say definitely that having the TPS idle voltage setting at say, 4.55 vs 4.62 immediately causes the idle to rise. Given that this car doesn't have a MAF, and that the MAP doesn't really act like a MAP in other applications, I guess the TPS is the only thing telling the ECU how much fuel to inject. The engine and power delivery is very smooth and tractable with the roller barrels actually. The throttle response is very linear but instantaneous.

I have a spare coil loom you can try out if you want.

Is the misfire consistent? Happening at part throttle vs WOT etc? I had bad coil wires to cylinder 4. Check your continuity first. Jiggle the coil loom while idling and listen.

Checked voltage this AM after car cooled. Voltage still at proper setting after adjusting yesterday afternoon hot. Went for shortish drive, came back and voltage stable with car hot. I don't get it. Line voltage at the plug was 4.92V - which was on 2 out of the 3 pins (not sure I understand that). Not sure if that being under 5V is significant or not.

The barrel spring is very strong as slams hard against the stops naturally. It seems I might indeed have two separate issues - first the drifting voltage of the TPS. The other is that even with the new sensor set to 4.62 (where it seems to stay briefly) I was still getting some mild hesitation. This makes me think about an intake leak or perhaps some imbalance of the throttle bodies. I have not messed with the air bleed screws at all- they are as set from factory. As the barrels wear in, do these need to be rebalanced periodically? I think my first order of business is to sort the TPS drift as that is more a known issue. On the uk forum someone suggested that since the TPS pot is just modulating the 5V voltage coming into it, to test the integrity of the input voltage. Also, it occurred to me that I can test the TPS voltage not just through easimap, but right at the back of the connector. This will help me to isolate the wiring as a potential source of drift (increasing resistance etc). Will report back after some tinkering today.

BTW I reset voltage when I got home with the car hot. Will check in AM with car cool to see if it changes again.

I've been dealing with a part throttle/low load hesitation/misfire on my 420R (w/roller barrels) - I thought I had it figured out after realizing that my TPS voltage had drifted up. It's supposed to be 4.62V at idle. I found that it was 4.71V and this seemed to be the cause of my hesitation issue. Resetting it to 4.62 quickly allowed the engine rev normally. However I saw that the voltage was hunting a bit just sitting there connected to easimap, so I decided to replace it. The first sensor I put in I set to 4.62, then did a short drive. After the car got warm (about 5-10min) I noticed the idle speed had crept up to 1800rpm (normally ~1100rpm). Sure enough when I got back, the voltage was 4.55 (too low a voltage causes the ECU to think more throttle is applied as the voltage from the TPS goes down as the throttle is opened). So I thought maybe that sensor was bad. I got a new OEM Ford TPS sensor and swapped it in yesterday, set to 4.62 of course. Took the car out again and noticed that it was still doing the part throttle hesitation, although just a tiny bit and barely noticeable. Totally driveable, not the severe misfire it had before, and only over a tiny range of the throttle sweep (ie dead spot between 10-12% throttle, where before it was severely sputtering between 1 and 40%). However the idle speed had gradually crept up to 2000rpm. I got home (with the car still hot) and checked the voltage, which was now 4.51V. Needless to say I am confused. The sensor is fastened tightly - I don't think it's moving. Could this be a temperature issue? The TPS does get quite hot being mounted directly to the roller barrel assembly. I don't think Ford intended this part to get this hot. Could the lower voltage be caused by increased resistance in the wiring with heat? I have jiggled the wiring while connected to easimap and didn't see the voltage change at all. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Gonna start a new thread on drifting TPS...