KnifeySpoony

Well went to Laguna today - on the drive own pedal felt fine but I figured do a quick rebleed before first session then fuel up. On the way back from the pumps, the pedal went to the floor. Tried bleeding but it was just endless air - I think it's just getting sucked in the failed piston seal. Had to get a tow 90miles home. Good riddance to these POS rear calipers. Given me nothing but trouble from day one. My uprated brakes were already in the mail and I can't wait to get them on.

Mine was way rustier. Runs fine.

I assume you're asking if I'm running the standard Sierra calipers? The answer is yes. But not for long.

OK I'm officially done with the Sierra calipers. I went to put in a set of RS14s and saw that my LR caliper is weeping fluid. I have already replaced the RR caliper last year for leaking (this is on a 2021 build car with 4500miles on it). I'm going to do the race uprated rears and be done with it. Now I'm trying to decide if I'm going to put the bias valve under bonnet, or go through the faff of installing it in the cockpit. Also I need to learn how to cut/flare brake lines etc.

I agree with solid axle vs de dion. There's also long vs short cockpit. Otherwise it seems the engine defines the era the most. Pinto/rover/vauxhall/zetec/sigma/duratec/etc.

FYI i just noticed that hoosier does make an A7 in 225/45/13. But you'd have to run a square setup I guess.

Update on the DS3000. They are garbage for me. My first set had a catastrophic failure (pad crumbled away/fell off backing plate) after 5 days. I figured it was a fluke so put on another set. After 3 days, one of the pads is starting to crumble away but hasn't fully let go yet. So I'm back to planning the race upgrade again. But I need another pad to get me through this season. May try the 1144 or AP racing. @sf4018 - which AP racing pad are you using?

Moving the brake pedal will do nothing. You need to bend the throttle pedal to the right. I just did this actually and it was super easy (can't believe I put it off for so long). Removes simply with the one bolt, then bend it on the bench. Made a huge difference. Make sure you adjust your throttle stop if necessary.

Thanks to @sltous for coming through in the clutch and getting me a new cable today. Cable is in and car is buttoned up ready to go tomorrow AM. FWIW the new cable didn't fit perfectly - the little plastic cork stopper at the pedal end had a larger OD than my original one, so I had to dremel it down to fit. I noticed that the cable itself is thicker on the new one, so hopefully it will last longer. I filed/deburred the throttle pedal tube edges to hopefully make this one last longer. Another difference is that there is a second adjuster on the pedal side, which is very nice so if the cable stretches (before it snaps lol) I can easily adjust on that side since access under the roller barrels is impossible.

True, but with the OEM roller barrel setup the throttle is very heavy because of the springs and the mass/inertia of the barrels. This combined with rapid throttle inputs like blipping would have cable seeing pretty significant loads. But good to know a bike cable can handle it. Going to attempt a bodge on it tonight.

Interesting. I wouldn't have thought that bicycle cables would be strong enough to take an enthusiastic right foot.

I suppose i could just cut off the ball and attach something like this. The trick is finding one local to me open on July 4.... https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Motorcycle-Solderless-Throttle-Accessories/dp/B0BNKQYK4Q/ref=sr_1_1?crid=4PC8SKNEIAL5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7wkrVnGjsWQ4yUe7YpjEtzw2D67RIprp13szSdCiq_yhyf38iWcdj8JDWjkV_Z0JGB1-AA87bFsR7XbH3UD4Sg2AEqWx_Y1FQL2x-Eolz_idwk5ej4dnVW2OF9XK2yuPwQ6zhgXFdwdrWPYQN9HN4XqI68bFy3z2D2_df0YbLUYoPGb1Ey1ax3X59WrRloOGuyE-h4U3NRuyQ-FAqibsXg4mNpm672UvItTpNMF9lpM.ayJ-zPs18qc899z946HGJ1rarsTNcR_rDA5uBvN76SA&dib_tag=se&keywords=cable+barrel+nipple&qid=1720129581&sprefix=cable+barrel+nippl%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1

Another option- since the fraying is right at the ball end, can I just cut it off an attach another one. I don't have the equipment for soldering one, but is there a kind that clamps on?

Does anyone with a duratec car have a spare throttle cable lying around? I'm supposed to drive my car at Sonoma on Saturday, but just found out my cable is about half gone. Knowing that strands tend to break faster and faster, I don't think I trust it to drive up/track/drive home with it in its current state. Alternatively, does anyone know of an off-the-shelf part I could easily adapt?

Here are some pics of my pedal box. You can see my pedal spacing is different: These are the shoes I drive in. Unlike some of the recommended shoes in this thread, you can see the sole is much narrower than the upper of the shoe. This is how my shoes fit in the pedal box. The left shoe is firmly up against the side panel, and the right shoe is firmly up against the left shoe. You can see how much room there is. FYI I have lowered floors and the heels are resting on the floor.

Here's the actual link - not available. Says ended 3/11. https://www.blipshift.com/products/sjeven-black-ii

That link doesn't take me to the 7 shirt, just a page of a bunch of other shirts. Maybe the direct link doesn't work?

One of the members here has a LHD curvy dash CSR. (Darren)

CSR is similar dimensionally to an SV (ie wider than an S3) but a totally different animal.

I think most of us just tuck our left foot behind the clutch pedal to rest it while cruising.

Given that you aren't in his car with his feet/shoes, I wouldn't be so quick to chastise re: technique. Especially since you have small feet. I can assure you on my newer 420R, pedal spacing is a serious issue for me with my size 12 feet, even with full on racing booties.

Most racing boot companies have reasonably affordable shoes; https://www.sparcousa.com/product/slalom-suede https://www.sparcousa.com/product/race-2-2 These will be a lot narrower than those pilotis.

I don't think you should feel bad at all. My sale was in 2022 and new price may (probably) went up a bit. It's certainly in the ballpark. My post was largely in response to the comment about "giving" them away. Perhaps I should've quoted that post. My bad. My only point was that it is indeed a small market and secondhand parts do drop in value a lot, even if unused.

I sold my NIB pair for $250 recently. That's the market.

re: 225s - yeah I'd rather go up in width than down (car is plenty "assy" as is). However, with the lower profile not only would I have to adjust geometry, but I'm getting shorter gearing. At my two home tracks (Laguna and Sonoma), I'm right at the top of 4th gear (124mph per GPS) on the fastest sections on both tracks, bouncing into the limiter if conditions are good and I got a good exit. Any shorter gearing will be an issue for me. Slighter taller would be preferred actually.