KnifeySpoony

I know tires expand/balloon out at speed but I'm surprised that it would this much.

I'm not sure how it's possible but it seems my right front tire is rubbing on my wingstay despite there being a ~1cm gap. Anyone seen this?

Hmmmmm... my alternator is on the RIGHT side of the engine. Maybe the Left hand side mount is for RHD cars?

FWIW my car idles fine. Drivability is fine although the throttle is touchy and can cause "kangarooing" (I believe this is the correct 7 term) at light throttle over bumps.

I pondered the same and ended up doing the roller barrel during initial build. The bonnet cut was not a big deal with a sheet metal nibbler. The bigger issue is getting the proper ECU tune from Caterham. Also, the kit they sell has incorrect injectors. My car is running great now, but my tach still reads improperly, and Caterham apparently don't know how to fix it... The roller barrels do sound insane, though.

damn that's a good looking automobile

here's some vid of it in action

Holder did great at the track. A (smallish) passenger even rode a long one session and it wasn't in their way. I should mention that this solution only works if you don't have the fuse box cover there, as it blocks this piece of tubing.

I have found that i have to hold press it in firmly, hold it at just the right angle (elevating the handle somewhat), then pumping slowly, maybe at like 1/2 the maximum rate at the most. Then it will fill until full, and click of without overfilling. That's with our CA vapor recovery foreskin thingies.

FYI I'm pretty sure the rear hub nuts are 42mm, not 41mm. I bought a 41 but then later had to get a 42. this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SOSEHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This socket is beefy but just fits into the hole in wheel, which means you can torque it with the tire on the ground which eliminates having to rig up a bar or something to hold the hub stationary. Although if your handbrake is installed then that's a non-issue I think. Keep in mind you'll probably need a 1/2 to 3/4 in socket adapter.

Montana LLC?

I have read about the standard cap leaking on track, so I took the internet's advice and got the race cap with bellows. I just want to make sure I've installed it right. The new cap has a white plastic insert and O-ring. My understanding is that these must be removed when the bellows is used. Can anyone confirm? I have fitted it this way and it fits, but I can't tell if the top of the bellows (which now presumably acts as the sealing ring) is seating well within the cap. My goal is to prevent leaks; I don't want to create a massive leak by installing it incorrectly... Thanks

First trackday is next weekend (just got to 500mi and first oil change). I have no doubts about it being secure. It's on there tight.

I think so- I don't recall the part names for the arm and xgrip as I've had them for years. Only the clamp is new for this application. For those that don't want to intrude too much on passenger space, you could add another arm or two to bring the phone up and/or closer to the driver. I haven't tested the reach to the phone with harnesses on (as in to start my lap timer). If I can't reach it, I may extend with the additional arm(s). I have never read about anyone using this tube to clamp on, so I thought I'd share, as it seems among the most secure ways to secure a phone mount.

Showing now?

Hmmm it shows for me, let me try and fix it

So I have been searching around for the best option for phone mount (which I also use for laptimer on track) for my newly built 420R. I have an aeroscreen, so no suction cup to windscreen. I was hesitant to put a suction cup on the dash, even though that would probably work. It just feels so flimsy and I was worried about the phone bouncing around and damaging the dash. I also looked in the 3d printed holder available on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293979086187. However this would block gauges. Then I realized there was a tube on the passenger side meant for RHD steering columns I assume. I got a RAM mount clamp (small size): https://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-400U. It clamps securely to this small section of tubing, and the system works great, as long as you don't have a passenger (which I rarely will)

Do you have to go the the dmv every time?

How does it work getting the temporary permits while awaiting BAR approval?

I did bedliner inside my GRP rear wings, with PPF on the top. Car is too new to tell, but I'm hoping it holds up well. In just 200mi driven, I can see that the PPF is already taking some abuse so no doubt it's protecting against stone chips in the paint.

Alignment on my diff mounts was terrible and getting the bolts in was an absolute nightmare. It took an ungodly amount of force. It better last forever, cuz I'm never taking it out...

The next sentence means "If you import a box containing an engine and transmission and chassis and body and all the other stuff you need in order to make a car, it's a car."

I thought buying the drivetrain from a different company on a different invoice helps to circumvent that issue?

I am only just beginning the SB100 process. It says: Make: Caterham Model: Seven Model year: 2019 Which is interesting as I rec'd the kit in 2021.

My MSO from Caterham (a 420R that was ordered in May 2020, and shipped Dec 2020) states it is a 2019 Caterham...