KnifeySpoony

Check the dipswitches inside your tach - mine were set wrong. Went back and forth with Caterham, trying different ECU tunes, wasting time. Took 2 min to fix (against Caterham's advice lol).

I did not slacken off the bolt. I just put the torque wrench on and tightened it to spec. There is no clearance to put the torque wrench on the nut, so I have to tighten the bolt while holding the nut with a wrench. The bolt is lubed and secured with a nyloc.

Interestingly, I found this tidbit in the UK 7 race rule book: "" It is permissible to replace the rear-most mounting bolt of the Watt’s link for a longer bolt of similar specification, enabling a nyloc nut to be fitted to the end of the bolt protruding from the chassis bush, preventing the bolt from loosening in use." https://cms.caterhamcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2021-Caterham-Seven-Championship-UK-Regulations-Published-Copy.pdf So, this is clearly a known issue. However, I already have a nyloc as supplied in the original kit, and as above, the nut isn't actually loosening.

My 420R runs cooler (about 200F while on track, but temps go higher when idling in pits after coming off, up to 208, then the fan kicks on), but I have dry sump with oil cooler. What is your water/oil cooling setup like? edit: random question: does your car have LSD option or is it open diff? Just curious to know based on the ease in power oversteer you were getting. I'd assume it was LSD.

Pure sex...

Reminded me of:

I could but a plug under the dash would avoid having to take the bonnet off and save me 17 seconds. Hence why it's not a priority and I haven't done it yet. Also the fact that I have a battery disconnect so I haven't needed to do any battery maintenance actually. I do have a tiny little antigravity battery that I need to modify the current battery tray to accept. But in theory, the lithium will be in even less need of a top up charge.

I was supplied the fuse box cover for a RHD car with my kit. I had to get the LHD version sent out, but ended up not installing it. I also didn't install my knee panels. I figure easy access to under the scuttle was a bigger priority than any cosmetic concerns. Not to mention the weight savings!!! My plan is to wire my 12V socket wires to an SAE plug for battery maintainer. Haven't got around to it yet.

Yeah, cutting the hole for the intake was a bit frightening. So worth it though.

Nothing wrong with a couple of speedholes...

Definitely worth setting up something like this, IMO.

lol i'm famous - do I get royalties?

A few more, including another size comparison.

Length comparison:

Walked out of a store, looked in the direction of my car, and it was gone!! Oh, actually it's just COMPLETELY HIDDEN by a Fiat 500. Yes, my car is right on the other side. An S3 7 is indeed a small car. In fact I I rolled my car back so the rears were even and the Fiat is easily 14" longer.

That's interesting about the rear wings. I can see about exposed carbon rear wings having a glass underlay for strength or something. But why would they offer a painted CF rear wing? Presumable the only reason to spec that is for weight saving (IE not cosmetics)...

This, exactly.

Nice work. Can you tell me about your license plate mount there? Is that a factory piece or your own solution?

Not to derail but my carbon front wings (as well as aeroscreen) are certainly not carbon over fiberglass. They are real carbon and very light. My kit was delivered 2021. The wings had tillett labeling on them. My rear wings are standard fiberglass, so I can't comment there.

Yes, the manual lists the "cruciform", but I have read horror stories of bent tubes. Also, with my jack stands supporting the front, I cannot fit my floor jack in between their bases to access the cruciform anyways, hence my use of the tow eye. Also I misspoke re: the rear. I use the A-frame/Dedion point.

Yeah I was swearing up a storm doing the exhaust springs. I did the ziptie trick but was still a massive pita. Primaries were a non issue, even with the alternator in place.

7" not high at all, any floor jack should be able to lift your car off the stands. I use the tow eyes front and rear as jack points. The 7 is a super ez car to jack, another plus!

My daily is a bike. My 7 is my only car. I'm very familiar with dressing for the weather lol. I do find it easier to stay comfortable in the bike though.

I have the factory carbon tillets with heating elements. They do work, but in car with aeroscreen and no doors (my configuration) in winter, they can only do so much. I'd imagine that just the heat generate from the car would adequate if it was contained within windscreen/doors/hood.

Full disclosure, the only tire I've ever driven my 7 on is the Avon ZZS. So limited experience there. However I have driven other cars on street/track with 200TW tires with great success. Lap times don't lie. RE71R and A052 are faster on track than 888R on most cars I believe. The gap will be even wider on the street where it is impossible to get an 888R up to temp. NT01s are a highly regarded track tire (better than an 888R by call accounts); reasonably sticky and very durable and tolerant of heat. However it wouldn't be my first choice for street driving, even on a big heavy car.