sltous

If you make the part based off a drawing, the new online sheet metal shops (OSHCut or similar) are a lot cheaper than you might expect, especially if you don't get parts bent before shipping. The parts are a lot nicer if you get them bent by a vendor though.

I have found that SearchTempest can still be run as a US wide search in a guest window (chrome or any browser than is running on chromium) but that even if you open each group of results one-by-one instead of clicking the Open All button, Craigslist starts blocking your search about a third of the way across the country. A new guest window allows a new third of the country but it is a royal pain and I'm not advocating for that as an approach. I used to be able to run a SearchTempest search 4-5 times before getting essentially rate limited by the "Your request has been blocked" page, I suspect Craigslist has chosen to reduce their permitted range which is too bad.

Adding some other context for problem solving in the future. I provided the problematic throttle position sensor and when I look back through my notes this sensor does not have a return spring. My theory based on this lack of a return spring is that at low/idle throttle positions the positioning slop of the sensor permits large measured changes in position from the vibrations of the engine compared to the actual change of the throttle so in essence the idle voltage is wandering because the engine is idling. If the sensor has a return spring the wandering of the idle voltage should be much less because there is a resultant force maintaining the sensor position against the actual position of the throttle. The position of the sensor when driving at speed should be relatively quite accurate because the throttle has moved a large distance compared to the slop in the sensor position so the theory somewhat matches the described behavior where you are setting PRs but can't drive home in traffic.

Thanks John. I did a quick plot compared with the Revilla data from above and they look similar although there is not a fixed offset. I'll probably end up trying each one and hope to get something close enough to be useful. Temp C Difference (ohms) Bosch is higher 50 210 60 174 70 153 80 132 90 115 100 102

Hi @JohnCh did you end up finding calibration data for this temp sensor? I've just fitted a Caterham 71167 sensor to my oil sump and was hoping to wire it to an AIM system for logging. My ECU outputs water temperature from the other water temperature sensor, I believe it is the Coolant Water Elbow to ECU part number PR6895, while the Caterham 71167 senders for oil and for water go only to the dashboard gauge via a dashboard switch. I have looked at the temperature sensor section of your custom CAN @sf4018 and I think I could maybe learn how to turn that into a custom sensor if I really had my back up against the wall but it would take some learning. I think I am seeing one possible source here: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/k-series-temppress-sensor-details which may be worth trying. I do have the luxury of the submarine Caterham 71167 sensor being fitted within about 3 inches of the Coolant Water Elbow to ECU part number PR6895 so I could likely correlate the two sensors and get confirmation relatively easily

Still available. Make me an offer.

@KnifeySpoony have you checked in the ECU map to verify that the lambda is used for anything? I think I took a look through my map (unlocked 9a4 with a custom map) and could not find anywhere it was actually being used after discovering my lambda sensor was totally mis-wired. You could also double check the wiring based on this document: https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/app/uploads/2020/11/Lambda_3_and_4_pin_Wiring_Instructions.pdf I agree, I would imagine sensor logging likely won't tell you much about the lambda readings vs static easimap usage unless you find there is a wire that gets loose under road vibrations

Not sure I agree. I think it's the 7fifteenmotorworks Troy Indy Special https://www.7fifteenmotorworks.com/

I got this document from Rocky Mountain Caterham at one point for roller barrel TPS setup. WRNOT 608 - Roller Barrel Setup Ford Duratec Engine.pdf

You're certainly not going to get that R500 Caterham as something you can drive anywhere other than a simulator/game console

Those are just Forza screenshots, right?

Also out of town but theoretically interested after mid January. GGLC is fun, bummed I missed their drives in 2022.

Not my parts but there is a Solo DL and an AIM Smartycam HD 2.1 on eBay right now for ~900. To the best of my research this is one of the lowest cost barrier to entry, easiest to use, ways to get CAN data from the Caterham ECU onto a track map video with an external microphone. I have the same setup (although no external microphone yet) and it has worked well for me the one track day I had the camera setup. https://www.ebay.com/itm/115619310252?hash=item1aeb72aaac:g:JzsAAOSwMd9jg7Sm https://www.ebay.com/itm/115619296885?hash=item1aeb727675:g:dNUAAOSwXcljg8aP

Hi John, In the process of re-installing my scuttle and wanted to give you some updated notes. I was able to use every other rivet hole instead of all 24 and it is adequate in terms of structure in my opinion, I am not worried about the scuttle - to - firewall mating surface flexing and causing issues. Every 4th hole is definitely too far apart. I haven't tried driving with the current setup yet so I don't know if there will be issues leaving every other hole open, I might consider a spot of caulk or some other kind of seal on the open holes if anything pops up that is annoying. The plastic bolts I initially planned to use are a bit unsatisfactory. I stripped one installing the first 8 (every 4th starting from the 2nd from the outside I think got me to 8) and switched to some stainless fasteners I had on hand when re-installing with every 2nd hole. If you are super hardcore about weight savings damn the cost you might consider aluminum bolts or something exotic but to me the tradeoffs for the plastic bolt stopped making sense as soon as I actually tried using them. Using the furthest outward hole may introduce challenges. I skipped it because my drill couldn't reach but I also think the rivnut might run into the scuttle and require some surgery

It looks like there's plenty of tube wall on my car to drill out for the M4 rivnut. With respect to removing the scuttle I unbolted my aeroscreen first because I didn't realize the captive nuts it is bolted to could be removed as one piece so you're way ahead of me It was a bit of a pain to remove all the parts individually (and find clean, safe horizontal storage for everything) but with a little care everything came up easily.

Glad you asked and @11Budlite had an answer I've been losing sleep about that rivnut. I think I might put a countersunk head steel M3 or M4 nut in there. Willing to take a tiny weight penalty for a more robust rivnut in a relatively hard to replace location.

Happy to help. Let me know if there's any other scuttle or sub-scuttle structure information I can share while I have mine on the shelf, keeping in mind I have a 2005 car and it may have changed somewhat.

Taking into account my plan for use of washers with outside diameter 9mm https://www.mcmaster.com/97763A822/, on my car which has been repainted at least once, there are definitely chips that will be visible outside the diameter of the washer. (Mis)Using a 9mm wrench instead of calipers, see some pictures.

Hi John, I'm in the process of making this change now, I went with a larger drill bit (a #24) and drilled the rivets out (heads 'twisted' off and all 24 are lined up on my drill bit) but I was not too worried about my paint inside the engine bay where the scuttle meets the bonnet. I imagine you could do something like using a small hole punch or a knife to scribe around the head of the rivet to break the ring of paint before drilling so you got a nice bare aluminum ring rather than chipping or tearing the paint. I don't know a ton about rivets but I think unless you used a sheet metal drill bit the thin wall of the head of the rivet is always going to twist when the bit breaks through and pull off. My plan is to re-fit using low profile aluminum rivnuts https://www.mcmaster.com/91230A221/ and plastic screws in order to save on weight. I am basically treating the mounting of the scuttle as a cosmetic piece under virtually no load.

I was able to add ~1.6L of rated 1.9L into my 6 speed and several members let me know there was likely to be significant oil in various parts of the transmission. How did you drain your transmission oil? I think I would re-fit and check fluid level a second time with the engine / transmission in place.

@hahuang65Did you make any progress when you were at Kampena?

Hello all, The fabric headrest patch on the passenger seat of my fiberglass Caterham race seats (I believe these are their part number SE81K https://caterhamparts.co.uk/race-seats/123-race-seat-in-grp-with-runners.html ) is coming loose. Any suggestions on an adhesive to stick it back down?

Still available. I'll include a set of the install hardware I used on my Ford differential if you are interested.

Adding my notes from Rocky Mountain Caterham on setting up TPS for roller barrels as a reference if useful. WRNOT 608 - Roller Barrel Setup Ford Duratec Engine (1).pdf

I have the modine oil/water cooler and I haven't had any oil or water temp problems on street or track but I'm a lot slower on track than KnifeySpoony.