slngsht

where are u located? sone long wires will do the trick

I have a suggestion... grab a multimeter, and monitor the voltage at various places while you make right turns... for example, injector power, ign module power, fuel pump power, etc... You will systematically isolate it. Could this be world's first NASCAR Caterham? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrinjester.gif

I'm sure it will make that much extra power - he has the dyno runs to prove it, and they're in line with many other C5s with the same mods... As for causing issues with the rest of the car, [borad]not so much[/borad]

The axle is from a Toyota Supra (1980) that was rated at 110 HP http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif It does have a TruTrac center section. But I'd say that's the weak point. The suspension links are all upgraded. I figure as long as I don't add more traction, it'll be fine.

Adding power might cure that http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rofl.gif

Is demodding his vette to sell it. Heads/Cam package is putting out 450 horses at the rear wheels. It'll be a direct replacement for my Rotus parts. I really don't need problems like this to think about, but damn, 150 horses for $2000 (and subtract what I can sell my stock heads for) is a heck of a bargain. Talk me out of it (I'm sure if Gail sees this, I'll be easily talked out of it) http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/leaving.gif

No 6, whatever retailer you end up with, let us know who it was, and how your experience was with them.

It's a never ending cycle... Bigger trailer + bigger car = bigger tow vehicle. Some want to tow other cars, others want the lightest smallest trailer possible. Tandem axle is definitely doable. I *think* a Miata will fit on these.

I got a tentative price from http://www.bjtrailers.com for a 6' X 12' steel single swing axle trailer with electric brakes and a re-inforced tail gate for $1,275. This price does not include any tiedowns, etc... I'm sure they could be added. EDIT: Also, does not include shipping. I am waiting for a price from a local shop. This will be higher, but he used to weld stuff for Rotus, is familiar with our cars, and had some ideas on low clearance issues. I'll keep you posted. It is looking promising.slngsht2006-11-14 12:02:13

Definition of OFFSET - The distance from the centreline of the wheel to the mounting surface of the wheel. Yes, it is very important... Worst case, you won't be able to put the wheel on, because it will hit the caliper. Edit: not the caliper, but possibly a suspension component like a ball joint -- in our cars it's very unlikely to hit the fender http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif. If you clear everything, you still want to have the correct offset. the offset basically determines the center of the contact patch. If you draw the line from the upper A-Arm mounting point, to the lower A-Arm mounting point, to the ground, and mark that point, and then compare it to the center of the contact patch, the further those two points are from each other, the higher the steering effort. There are more factors involved, but those are the ones that pop in my head. slngsht2006-11-13 11:45:44

I have a set of exhaust covers and radiator grill on order with Martin. I'll post up after I get them.

is there a prize? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrinjester.gif

b

Gert, the Johnsons at the Dragon had a really simple setup on their bikes, with a tiny joystick on the console that controlled a servo for orienting the camera. If you want, I can find out where they bought that.

Makes sense

Gert, I love the music with that vid http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif this is the vid that made me think of doing this: Edit: Later up the road, the turns get even tighter. Anyway, this is mostly something for me to tinker with. It is more "want" than "need". It is a standard RC servo. I already have a mini PC for running my dash, so a USB controller for the RC and reading the potentiameter will be very simple to implement. Perhaps instead of reading steering angle, I can turn the camera to show the face of the passenger when the car exceeds 1 lateral G http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gifslngsht2006-11-10 23:00:26

While looking at the trip vids with Al, I realized that on tight corners, most of what the video shows is the trees you'd plow down if you didn't make the turn... So, I started playing with this: Most of the hardware to control it is already on the car, so it'll be easy to do it. In the vid, I'm controlling the motion with a mouse. In the car, it'll be controlled with a potentiameter hooked up to the steering shaft, so the camera will turn in the direction of the steering wheel.slngsht2006-11-10 22:01:53

Secondary to this discussion, but... For autocross purposes, the real difference between a 'Seven' and a 'Regular' car is not power-to-weight. It's really weight and size. A typical 150 hp Seven has pretty much the same power/weight ratio as a 400 hp C5 Z06. Z06 has really no chance against a Seven in an autocross. Watching Sevens go straight through offset gates is frustrating when in a regular car you have to tap the brakes and flick the wheel from side to side to clear the same cones.

what scares me more than trucks on the dragon are these: >http://www.killboy.com/ Go about half way down and look at pics of the nissan 240 SX.

there are only 2 ways out of Robinsville... we saw one stuck on the dragon.

on both the Pacific Northwest Tour and the 7/7/07 events: >http://www.rmsci.com/5287/1106.pdf

>http://mlis.state.md.us/cgi-win/web_statutes.exe?gtr&22-413 hmmm... from what I can tell, only rear fenders are "required". This is not helping motivate me http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif

Great, now I can tell for sure that the Seven IS more aerodynamic than a brick http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif

We're having a warm day today http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gif so I took Frankn7 to work to try out the new fender mounts. They do OK at speed, but tend to shake on bumps. I can add another mounting point (I have 2 right now, near the front and near the back), but I'm not sure if that's going to eliminate the problem. BTW, my fenders are Aluminum. I guess I should've never driven the car without fenders. Eventhough my fenders really hug the tires, the no-fender look is much better - legal or not

Russ didn't let an inch and a half of rain stop him. I doubt the cold will be a problem http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif. I have no weather protection, so I drove my other car to the last school. I typically run the SCCA schools to get more seat time than SCCA events - I just don't have the time to spend almost an entire day for 4 runs. At least with the schools, I can get about 30 runs in. The practicality of all this depends on the availability of a lot to run in. If a reasonably priced lot is available, we can run far more runs/$$ than just paying SCCA. More importantly, there is more freedom on how to setup the course to work on specific problems.