anduril3019

I wonder about durability also. I'm obviously not worried about mechanical failure on this part, but curious to see how it holds up to UV.

Craftcloud was great. A wide selection of materials and processes and pretty fast turnaround. It's a crowd sourced service, so once you set all your parameters for materials, finishes, quantity, etc., you're given a choice of vendors. I've printed the same model with several different vendors to test consistency between them, and have been happy with the results. I've also done another project through them where I needed 1000 prints of something, and was also happy with the results. One glitch I had was that the first time I uploaded a model, it said my file was corrupt. My friend who built it couldn't find a problem with the file. It turned out that Craftcloud wasn't interpreting the scale, so the solution was just to click through the warnings and manually enter the overall dimensions, which then sets the scale in Craftcloud.

Well, here goes, I'll take a stab at the first post. I'm working on a long term Locost build dubbed the Fauxtus 7. I'm a long way from completion, but thought it would be fun to take a little diversion from fabrication and work on a hood badge. Full disclosure, I did the 2D design, a friend did the 3D modelling and some of the prints, other prints were made using an online service. The goal was to try and come up with something that could work as an old-school enameled badge. Mainly, that meant making sure all the elements were completely bordered and isolated so they could be paint filled. The 2D design was extruded, then the foreground and background intersected with a sphere to get the domed shape but keep all the lines parallel in the Z axis. The model was printed by an FDM and an SLA printer (I don't know any detail about the printers). The line work ended up being too fine for the FDM to hold the detail, and even though the resin printer reproduced all the detail, I'd make some of the line work thicker next time. Using the resin prints, we painted some directly and also made a silicone mold and cast a few using metal filled epoxy, with varying results. Again, as with the initial prints, the silicone had trouble with the fine line detail and began to deteriorate after several castings. I also sent the model to craftcloud3d.com and tried a few different materials including a bronze filled PLA. With this material and the metal filled epoxy, you can get something approaching a polished metallic surface. The red and blue version is the bronze filled PLA print painted with Testors model paints in candy colors which are a little transparent and let some of the "metal" show through. Top surface was wet sanded and finished with fine scotch bright. Next I may try completely filling the recesses with clear resin then sanding it flush and polishing to get a completely smooth top surface. Overall diameter is 2.5" There you go!

Just messaged you. I'd love them. I think it's a good home, jury's still out...

Here's a great source for Cortina parts: cortinaphil@cox.net I bought a complete rear axle from him a few years ago, he had several at the time.

Here's a nice little project for some brave soul. Looks like an early Series 2 with drum brakes up front. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/7572270477.html

Here's a manufacturer that list by size. Something I've been trying to find for a long time. If you click through on the dimensions, it will also give you the original application it's from. Champion Cooling Systems

Great looking car! What's your radiator from? Is it custom or something off the shelf? Thanks!

It'll be fun to see how the power grid holds up, as well.

Or not move back...

This is not meant to be a political discussion, so posting here. I'm interested in hearing peoples thoughts or inside knowledge on how this might affect the specialty, classic, and used car markets in California. For now, the ban is on new car sales, but I could see restrictions on older combustion engines, such as yearly mileage limitations. Specific to special construction vehicles and California's SB100 program, I wonder if this will be targeted and become stricter. I'm building a Locost that will need SB100 to title, but I'm probably a few years away from having it road-worthy. Guess I better get a move-on!

Can you give approximate dimensions and weight so I can estimate shipping cost to the other side of the country? Thanks!

Nice work!

Try searching Craigslist nationwide via Search Tempest or something similar https://www.searchtempest.com/ Like MV8 said, make your search general, like "Triumph wheels" or even just "Triumph" in auto parts. I came up with things like this: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/warren-triumph-spitfire-parts/7499586817.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/warren-triumph-parts-tr3-tr4-tr6/7499586423.html https://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/d/decades-of-mg-triumph-jag-xke-parts/7485340249.html These all look like they're worth contacting at least. And here are a couple of ebay sellers I've had luck with contacting directly and asking if they have something not advetised: https://www.ebay.com/str/katzklassicinc https://www.ebay.com/str/britishautoworks https://www.ebay.com/usr/rw_auto_classics

It's been a while since I've seen it, but from memory and the diagram, there's a cross drilled hole perpendicular to, and between the rails. The pin sits such that it has to be pushed aside, right or left, by one rail or the other. When both rails push at the same time, it has nowhere to go, so neither rail can move. It is a detent system, but separate from the 3 detents accessed by removing the top cover.

The lockouts are at the front end of the case, circled in red, #7233.

On the 3 rail transmission, there should be a lockout detent that prohibits the 3/4 selector rail and the reverse selector rail from moving at the same time. If the gear shift is not pushed all the way to the right, it engages both rails and moves them together if the detents are not working well.

With my similar transmission it was possible, after a lot of miles, to engage reverse and 4th at the same time by making a quick or sloppy shift into reverse. The proper solutions are mentioned above, but with careful reverse selection, mine lasted another several years.

I worked for Dave for a couple of years around 1990, I'll vouch for his expertise and friendliness!

Try these: Should be a Lucas L516 https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/981/category/72

Any chance the roll bar is still available?

David and Greg, while respecting your privacy, I, for one, would love it if you continued this conversation online. I'm building a Locost with a chassis design inspired by some of the DSK info I've found online. David, I thought I read somewhere that you had some connection with Dave Bean, is that true?

I was told by Mountune they would be available "soon".

The roller rocker question was more out of curiosity, no need to measure. I sent you a PM.

That's a beautiful engine, love the intakes! Is the half crown removable? Do you know if the black rocker cover was used with roller rockers and if there are any internal clearance issues?