anduril3019

I was told by Mountune they would be available "soon".

The roller rocker question was more out of curiosity, no need to measure. I sent you a PM.

That's a beautiful engine, love the intakes! Is the half crown removable? Do you know if the black rocker cover was used with roller rockers and if there are any internal clearance issues?

I saw one of the Ford covers on ebay recently. These guys will do a custom version: http://jrcast.com/?page_id=145 Check with some of the Formula Ford and vintage engine builders. Ivey shows the Ford version on their website, not sure if it's available: https://iveyengines.com/parts/

It's like an Escher drawing. My brain is confused, but I think I like it.

I'm responsible for a couple of websites so I'm experienced in the thankless part. With that in mind... Thank You! One of the reasons I love coming here is the visual "tidiness", easy functionality, and intuitive navigation. My first click is usually "Activity" to see what I missed over night, and I'll check the map about once a month to see if anyone new has popped up. @Vovchandr Have to say I was a little disappointed after clicking on your "Free Prizes" visual. :-(

Good point! It's not too hard to find an engine stand on Craigslist or, dare I say, Harbor Freight.

I might be able to loan a pair. Do you have a rough idea of how long you'll need them?

Looks like it just needs a diagonal brace for the roll bar then it's track ready!

I've got a pair of 10" wide cycle fenders and mounts, but that's the outside dimension with 3/16-1/4" fiberglass thickness. Not sure if that will work for you or not. Let me know if you're interested.

No longer constrained by a mortal body, her soul has achieved ultimate lightness! Anyone who enjoys anything Lotus related owes as much thanks to her as to Colin. https://jalopnik.com/hazel-chapman-co-founder-of-lotus-cars-dies-age-94-1848214166

Richard, send me your email address through the message system and I'll send you drawings. After sorting through all my files, I think I've got quite a bit of info you can use.

Agree with you on Locost USA, but I have come across some good fabrication tips there. I actually considered using a Spridget drivetrain on mine but finally settled on a Cortina rear end, transmission, and pre-crossflow 1500. Keeping it simple and old school. I’ll send you the S2 drawings in a few days, I also have a pretty detailed parts list I’ll share with you, it may or may not help. Hope it goes well, I’d love to see your progress as it comes together.

Do you have graphic or technical drawing skills and or software? If not, I can make you some scaled PDFs. My drawings are in Illustrator (an odd platform for technical drawings, but it works for me!) Front end on the 7 is Triumph Spitfire and Herald, Steering Rack, Uprights, Brakes. You could probably make the Spridget parts work, depends on how authentic you are trying to make it. You'd have to work out A arms and associated geometry. Spridgets use lever shocks, with the lever acting as the upper locating arm. With the Spridget stuff, you'd still have a period correct "special," just not quite original. Have you visited the Locost USA forums? (http://locostusa.com/forums/) Tons of build information there, and as many opinions. The main thing you might run into in discussions regarding building something kind of original is, "Why bother?" There are better, cheaper, easier to find components, as well as easier ways to build and complete your project. Personally, I'm taking a similar route to yours. Why? Why not! It won't be a "real" 7, and it won't be the fastest 7, but it will be fun, and it will be mine, that's reason enough. Message me about drawings and what file formats you can work with.

There are several S2 chassis drawing sets floating around out there on the internet, some "original", others with various modifications from DSK, Pat Prince, and a few others. They've been handed down through various internet forums and such, so no guarantees as to provenance (or copyrights). I've done a full scale layered version to compare them for my own version, an original looking slightly enlarged S2/3 to fit long legs and big feet. If you're interested, let me know.

Most 7 drivers are a little dodgy, so, it sounds like a match made in heaven for someone.

This looks interesting. Maybe a stage or two below the recent BAT project. https://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/d/frenchtown-1962-lotus/7389624914.html Could be a great project if the frame isn't too rusty. Looks like a lot of original (and non original) equipment that may be of interest to the authenticity discussion. Same seller also has an Elan and a Mini. https://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/d/frenchtown-1966-lotus-elan/7389645609.html https://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/d/frenchtown-1962-morris-mini/7389607684.html

Awesome, that was fast! 1/2 way there. I'll message you.

I'm looking for a Caterham type upper and lower steering column/shaft. Preferably straight, not concerned about condition otherwise. Thanks!

I'm using bugeye lights on my Locost project. The bugeye units are Lucas L549 for the tail lights, and L594 for indicators. Bugeyes use the L594 on the front also. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/71 I think the L551 is correct for the indicators, but I think the L594 (bugeye) looks better. I might use something like the L551 for a high center brake light. "Correct" can be somewhat subjective on a 7, and especially on a replica. Original tail lights had an angled plinth to fit the fender angle, depending on where you mount them on the fenders, you might get a way without it. Not my car, but here's the look I'm going for:

Mind if I ask what you used for the red? The color looks great!

Hi Jason, I'm in Los Angeles and could put these and the spacers to good use. I sent you a direct message also. Thanks!