IamScotticus

A handy 240v outlet when you need one. Nice

The main reason I suggest a SV (I don't have one) is you had stated that there is an interest in the riding comfort of an afore mentioned " Missus": "if I can squeeze in, I'll do it, I can live with that, as will my missus have to" So, have you ever had to sit in an airline seat with a guys shoulder in your cheek for hours? Yea. That's an S3. IF you want a happy Missus, SV! The S3 can be your doghouse car, the car you put on- you wear it. It's intimate, lts all you.

its an Artificial Intelligence generated image. they're always fun. this was created with the description "Lotus 7 Christmas tree on snow" and this I suppose the more detailed description you give the generator, the more concise image you can generate. Tis generator I used doesn't ID Caterhams or Lotus 7s very well. But this is AI. I hope it doesn't get too smart.

Go SV. Don't be so focused on the track performance. Get a 7 you can enjoy tooling around in. Comfortably. That will be your keeper. Super 7 2000 Here's your car: https://caterhamcars.com/us/models/the-range/super-seven-2000?view=article&id=56%3Aconfigurator&catid=9&configuration=%2BBOOPITV%2BBPTPCBL%2BBST%2BCLB%2BCTS%2BDSHPDSS%2BE00%2BFST%2BFWG%2BGS5%2BHHL%2BHTR%2BIC7PP7I%2BINSPINM%2BINTPINCINRPINC%2BISB%2BITTPITV%2BKBT%2BLPO%2BLRSPBLK%2BMCP%2BMINCAOPDCUCAIPSLV%2BN7R%2BNAP%2BNBS%2BNDR%2BNGG%2BNRM%2BNSD%2BNTK%2BPIPPBLK%2BPNBPFYS%2BRAB%2BRBCPGBS%2BS2K%2BSGA%2BSIGCHASSIS%2BSIGHEADLIGHTBOWL%2BSML%2BSRB%2BSRD%2BSTU%2BSWL%2BSZV%2BWLW%2BWST I didn't see a LHD option. LSD is nice if you can pay for it. Lowered floors is a personal choice but I would not choose it if you don't need it.

Another thing, if the seats you want have steel mount rails, they should have steps that fit within the frame. Should measure that too. I found out that a squab seat bottom from my car didn't fit a 1985!

It not unusual for there to be variances in tunnel widths. My 1996 Classic Crossflow long cockpit chassis measures 16" for seat width between side panel and carpeted tunnel. Odd, I always thought it was 15 inches. I guess it grew around the waist.

Here is a nifty tool for the Triumph hubs, a hum puller/extractor available from Rimmer Bros. The concept is to apply enough pull for the hub to separate after wacking the hub, something fairly elementary when dealing with tapered connections. It was this or a hydraulic press. This is portable. Staged for demonstration Caution must be taken to not warp the hub.

@Christopher smithSir, don't apologize for anything! You are an official subject matter guru! I'm taking notes!

Yes, I generally wish to avoid all methylene chloride products. The alternative strippers, according to what I can glean from the Tube demonstrations, appear to be a much lower odor and toxicity and work well. This is important because I will be working in a shack attatched to the residence in which contains a very sensitive odor alarm that will scream at the first offending scent. My other concern is reactivity with Bondo. I don't want any existing fillers to dissolve.

Thanks, good to know. I did buy a small quantity of Coopers taking advantage of free shipping and a bonus 50% more striper (don't ask). The reason I did was to see about the specialty rinse. It has waterless anti-rust properties I am looking for in a non- petroleum dry coating as an alternative to WD-40. One takeaway from my stripper research is the old standard Aircraft Remover had been neutered by the EPA, removing the nice toxic stuff that made it so crinkly good. If you still have any of the old formula, conserve it.

Yes, as exciting as watching paint dry. But for today, I am interested in removing paint off 60's Lotus plastic without damaging the original gelcoat. No, I'm not going restore the gelcoat, I just need to get repairs done. I have been searching for a safe stripper, if there is such a thing, and found Cooper's Strip Club Paint and Varnish stripper and rinse kit out of Kiwi land. https://coopersstripclub.com/marine-lpp1/ Can anyone vouch for this product? Or recommend another one?

I like letting letting Rocky Mountin help you move it. They can host it on their site. You can list it here for RM. Didn't RM help you get the 7? Dance with the one who brought you. Let Josh or Bruce flip it. Timing? Forget all that. $45k knows no seasons. Someone who can drop that on a toy isn't a seasonal impulse buyer. They're likely looking all year for the "one", or a seller looking to flip it. I suggest picking an agent and all advertising you do, Hemmings, etc, lead to that person. Let a 7 expert handle your showing, negotiation, sale and delivery. It is very possible the buyer will be exporting. You don't want to handle all that yourself. I'll keep talking. I think there are too many of these later Cats up for sale. This is a one-percenter car, a niche fan base. Your target clientele has many options, like other 7 copies, Slings and autocycles. In a country that puts 5" tall speed bumps in the roads. Tiny cars are a tough sell and the 7 being the most fragile of them all, you have to already be a fan to even consider a 7. Its not a rational choice. I have heard that Cat is aiming at increasing north America sales. Wait too long to sell this and you won't get your price. BaT? Our friend in Hawaii's BaT buyer backed out on him. Apparently BaT selling has its own share of shenanigans to deal with.

Can this tap be used for DS extraction?

Amazon Marketplace If they allow cars. IDK Find the Porsche guys with Gulf cars. They may need another one.

Looks like a sump pan that can be used for a dry sump. You obviously have a wet sump pickup tube in there. Anyway, if you have a finger filter, take it out and inspect it. It is a maintenance item too. It could be keeping gunk from leaving the sump when you drain. It's porpoise 🐬 is to protect the scavenge pump, if you had one. You may also have an O ring behind that blue head needing replacement. Consider a using a Dowdy seal that fits. Pegasus is good for those. Nope, definitely not a DS Nothing wrong with wet sump, a lot of potential problems will never occur. Very solid and reliable.

GT40 grommet covers will fix that. Trying to find it for squab builds

These were supposed to be cheap throw away club racers that anyone could afford. Cat did a fine job building them up into pretty tightly packaged techno marvels you don't dare put a scratch on. Guess what? 0-60 in 7sec and rollercoaster road Manners, harness tails slapping you in the face, burnt ankles, entry exit gymnastics, and getting stranded any time can be had with a 40yo $18-20k used beater. Not many cars hold value as well when cared for, but loose so much when wrecked.

There is a history of 7 body parts from DSK, Dave "The Man" Kaplan. According to the site anglocanadianlotus7/lotus-seven-parts-suppliers-list/ Pat Prince of Prince Race Car Engineering (815) 625-8116, www.sports.racer.net, who's thing is fiberglass bodies, "took over" some components from DSK. I don't know if that translates to body panels, but there is a good possibility.

Look at this https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/on-off-rocker-switch

The best advice I've ever heard is to ring him on the phone. I expect he is swamped with orders and no secretary on staff to track and follow up. I've made a few inquiries that went cold. No money, no foul. You have every right to keep shopping and he has every right to service the orders he can, and pass on one's he can't, or put them in eternal limbo. I've never heard of him not provisioning a paid order. Just keep in mind that there are plenty of other parts he can provide. Try buying something small you need, like a clutch package. He's good for that and may keep you on his radar.

Did you pay for them? CM is a man of few words

Even at Haggerty, you must find an agent familiar with 7s. After my self induced "accident", which was minimal damage, I told the claims agent about it, who was then set on sending me to a body shop. Um, no thanks. ***Hijack alert*** Interestingly, in 2025, Texas will be dropping the safety inspection requirement for road vehicle registration renewals. Yet, emissions will still be required in various counties. I can't think of a dumber thing. The logic of it, that I have heard, is without someone looking and telling you of a safety issue, the owner will be more attentive to the particulars. HA! These people here rotate through used cars straight out of the Insurance write-off auction yards. They sell them back to the dealers for another car before the registration deadline to avoid being on DMV records and having metal plates the police and plate readers can identify them by. We, enthusiasts of outstanding moral character, hit these registration and safety and emissions compliance walls trying to do the right thing. There are much bigger problems afoot. And once you get out there, you have to worry about being squished. So, things have to be kept simple. A banana is a banana no matter what sticker it has, right? Dole, Chiquita, etc. The registration is concerned with how to TAX your vehicle, they don't care about the history. So you stick with something familiar that is recognized by the people processing your application. In our case, they recognize Lotus, and maybe the 7 as a model. It doesn't matter who made it. For tax purposes you have a 4 wheel convertible top passenger road vehicle made by Lotus in 1967. That's your banana. The sticker on it is Caterham, or Robin hood, or Birkin, or Zero, Westfield, etc. If you have a jurisdiction that has a registration for replica cars, the snag they might have there is emissions may need to be compliant with the year of manufacture, not the year of replica. This may not be a problem for a current owner, but might become a problem for the next guy who's jurisdiction is enforcing year of manufacture IM standards. And there are kit cars, gliders, etc. It gets too complicated. This is why we just register the 1967 banana as a 1967 banana. This is not professional or legal advice. Just a schmuck who over complicates everything.

What charger? An AGM type I hope.

Too thin a backing wood will warp and bow from the cover when it shrinks, or if covered to taught. I estimate my back squab wood to be 3/8", 10mm. The back seat is very warped from age and bad storage practices. Fortunately it didn't bow laterally and is usable as is. I measured my Cat squab back to be 24" tall. I measured my rear seat bulkhead to be 24" from top of top square chassis tube to top of bottom square chassis tube. The bottom seat squab sits afore of the seat back cushion. I would suggest some Velcro to keep the top secured. 61 cm = 24", very close to the Lotus spec.

@Bill What is this clamp used for?