Christopher smith

Not sure my approach is practical for most Caterham owners but I will share in case someone wants an extra emphasis on safety for a clone build. I took my 1959 series 1 completely apart when I imported it from the UK so I was essentially starting from scratch. That was before external cages were invented, so I followed recommended practice for SCCA class D Production at that time (even though series 2 were the official Super 7s of the time). That was to have an internal roll bar or cage that went all the way to the floor for attachment. I also attached my cage to the top part of the frame thus adding stiffness. I also have 2 horizontal side bars and triangulated the front of the cage forward on the frame. It all adds weight but series 1 were very light to start with. For driver's side extra crash protection I have a rectangular panel employing a sandwich of 304 stainless steel with 4 layers of Kevlar cloth, a polycarbonate sheet and 4 more Kevlar. That is an attempt to stop/slow any penetration. SCCA was running a mix of classes on the track so I did not want to get hit by a Corvette ( like I had seen at Watkins Glen). Since I am 5'11 ", 150 lb and size 9 shoes I can just fit. It is tight, but no worries about having a special seat to control lateral G force effects. Between the driveshaft tunnel and the side bars is very cozy.

Great article-----The book mentioned in the article should be considered a "must read" for anyone building from scratch or substituting hardware that is not purchased to meet the exact spec. of the original ( I like to use better than original if a failure was encountered or is anticipated). 7s tend to be driven less conservatively than most cars, thereby heavily loading fasteners and vibrating, so should be treated to racing/aircraft grade hardware and assembly techniques for safety and reliability.

Just a thought on loose fasteners--- locknuts come as various types and some are prone to degrade in locking ability with reuse. I expect manufacturers have engineers that understand which types to use. However, if any critical ones seem to come loose, then you want to consider extra measures. Of course correct torque is essential since bolt stretch is supposed to preload the assembly and that should be designed in. On critical items where failure would be a disaster, additional measures like safety wire ( properly done) or correct use of Loctite may be appropriate. If Loctite is to be used on parts that may need to be taken apart later it is important to know which grade to use.

hey guys--- this is great. I particularly like the bolt info and tightening sequence for the dual 40DCOE and exhaust flange. Pretty close to what I figured out after trial and (many) error attempts without a manual a few years ago. many thanks!

Thanks- that does sound correct I seem to recall seeing a workshop manual many years ago but not sure if it was series 2 or 3. If anyone can get some copies run off of one, I would love to have one.

Did I understand correctly that Lotus could not print a manual early on for legal reasons? I heard somewhere that British Law would not allow cars to be sold for assembly by owner if a build manual was available. That may explain why 7A ( as in export to America), with the AH Sprite motor, had a manual.I also heard that Lotus had a teardown manual at one point and you just had to go from the end backwards to have instructions for assembly. If anyone can find a copy and have prints made, that would be of great interest. I have a spiral bound Cortina manual from Ford that covers the 1500 and 1500 GT in fine detail. Of course it does not cover the 40 DCOE as used on the super 7. Happy to share copies of a few pages if any interest.

Sorry about my terminology. I wrote "real 7" but hope that will not offend owners of other 7s here. Some of them are probably superior in chassis and suspension design ( with decades of improvement time available) compared to my very early one although I have no experience with other manufactured 7s. They certainly gained a few pounds but most of us did. I noted that there seems to be some stronger feeling about originality in the UK given that Caterham was licensed. Building one from scratch I assume they can sneak in an extra few inches in cockpit length and width, particularly in the critical pedal area. Anyone have better guidance for some of our bigger enthusiasts?

Hope you can find a fit. Perhaps that Caterham can work but doubt any other real 7 model would be ok. For my series 1, my mens size 9 shoes are maximum and even my racing shoes which have a little narrower sole are marginal. For height I have a relatively thin rigid urethane seat cushion covered nicely ( thanks to my understanding wife) with red vinyl typical of Lotus practice. My cockpit width is not a good indication since I am one of the very few with a full roll cage that is internal and goes all the way to the floor with 2 side intrusion bars per SCCA recommendations back in the 1960s. Adds 80 lb, but I was not going to win anyway. So at 5'11" and 150 lb I am a tight fit. Add the width of the 1.5 inch bars and you have an idea how tight the fit would be , so maybe ok for a 180-190 lb person? Wishing you good luck.

Based on my experience I would guess a full reskin at a minimum and perhaps some repairs to rusted frame areas? Rebuild/replace brake/clutch electrical likely needed so quite a project. But it does look like a genuine Lotus from the pictures. I already have mine but could possibly drive there to have a look anyway, just for fun.

At the price I paid for my 7, way back when, anyone would have been crazy to try and make a fake one to try to pass it off as original for a profit. That is unless their labor cost was $0.25 an hour and parts were free. Even decent, running series 2 were closer to 1000-2000 pounds max sale price. Not so sure now, given the prices that real ones in good condition can sell for. Oh I wished I had $18,000 back in 1962 or 1963 when I first got (real) close to the team 250 GTO at Bridgehampton Double 500 races. That is what a new one sold for back then. I think there are some replicas going around now, but obviously not worth the $36,000,000 or so a real one might sell for. I am hooked on the 7 but if someone gave me a T61 or RSK or 250 GTO I might be even happier.

Sure is different From 1978 when I searched the UK in person for a seven. Lucky I found a series 1 in need of help for 400 pounds that is when the fin began I meant fun

I am sure SENC has it correct. There were only a few Coventry Climax engined Series 1 made. I think Graham Hill raced one with great success. My 1959 series 1 was an oddball. Perhaps the original owner could not afford a Coventry Climax engine but did not want to go slow with the tiny Ford side-valve. He installed a 1300 Alfa twincam.

I may not be able to help much on the proper plate aspect. My series 1 No.475 was from 7 Tottenham Lane, Hornsey 29 April, 1959 which was a bit before the factory moved. The receipt is from Lotus Engineering Co, Ltd to R. G. Stern in Sydenham, London. But it changed hands over 5 times before I found it in Southampton. I doubt anyone would try to stamp a plate already attached to a 7 given how thin the aluminium is on the cowling. probably better to identify a real 7 by noting details on the spaceframe and where the steering rack attaches. Mine has the rack in the proper place of course but apparently the first few 7s had a box. I had picked up a box with steering shaft attached somewhere years ago ( and various other bits) but I do not recall why. Anyone interested is welcome to visit, like I did with Larry, very early in my project to be sure all was right.

Great start on a very interesting topic. Just for fun, this week I visited the dealer who has the 1962 car completely apart (as accurately shown in the video). The circumstance is very much like my 1959 series 1 Lotus #475 was in 6-7 years ago. After shipping it from Southampton UK I had sandblasted the frame, reinforced the front of the frame following SCCA specs for the old D production class where Super 7s used to run, added a roll cage and then it sat for 20+ years while I was too busy with family and work to get much done or go racing again. But I did collect various parts since it originally was built with a 1300 Alfa twincam motor and I have all the original Lotus receipts from 1959 and much more on MOT, owner(s) history etc. So the 1962 in Lancaster , PA car certainly reminded me of where I was before a couple thousand hours of fabricating/fitting/building and then installing a 1500 pre-crossflow Ford built fairly close to Cosworth practice. The 1962 frame has lots of aspects that must have been specified by the same engineers that did my 1959 and looks genuine to me, but of course it has all the series 2 differences to account for steering location and rear suspension differences. I looked at the number plate on the crossmember at the brake/clutch assembly mounting area but am not an expert on that (series 1 originally had pedals hinged from a bottom crossmember). It does appear that some previous owner felt the need to add some reinforcing tubes in the lower engine compartment and up at the front suspension area ( around the radiator) that I think are not original series 2 practice but a good idea ( the series 1 had a stressed aluminium floor pan all the way from the very back, up to around the engine so very different). The 1500 non-crossflow has the correct numbers ( 6015 on the block) just like mine ( so a mid 1960s type with the good 5 main bearing set-up). The dual Weber set-up is there but looks pretty old and needs cleaning/ ? rebuild ( like mine when I got it from an ex-racer). I did not notice an aluminium driveshaft tunnel ( which is structural in a 7) but was not really looking for it and the rear aluminium bodywork is missing but can be fabricated from 3003T16 ( ask me how I know). I look forward to seeing more inputs on this topic as 7s of all ages are great fun in many ways.

I used to watch George racing his Alfa Romeo powered Cooper formula car many years ago that was great I wonder if he would be interested to know that my 1959 series 1 originally had an Alfa Romeo engine

Thanks I had viewed that info a few times and it is indeed very good. I guess what I was curious about was the the differences in space frame and suspension designs. I have looked at some images to try to see the differences. Caterhams are quite different. I guess they noted some of the defects that came out on hard use and designed "fixes". SCCA had circulated quite some time ago their "allowed" modifications to the 7 frame with 3/4 inch round diagonal tubes up in the area of the radiator. I installed those as I did not want the frame to crack near the front suspension attachment points. adds weight but seems like a good idea to stiffen up that area given the dramatic differences in tyre traction since the skinny 15 inchers were in the original design.

John-Thanks for catching that. It would be interesting to know in the evolution of Lotus , then Caterham just what changes were made and the effect on weight (other than engine/gearbox of course with some big weight differences). The series 1 had aluminium floor pan all the way back with a big round cut out under the center diff area. I presume that was to facilitate oil change. And they did not have the suspension attachment point under the center of the rear. If my various reading sources are correct, the changes post series 1 were not so much Chapman directed as he apparently put his attention toward making the race cars faster (as in the 18, 19, 23 etc.) and then keeping the company alive. i certainly admire the newest 7s layouts

I noticed that a new Caterham model is claiming the lightest production 7 ever. Not 100% sure but I see data that indicates my series 1 Lotus )1959 #475) was probably down closer to 725 lb back then. It has certainly gained some weight since new but is still pretty light.

Just joined but have my 2 quart unit up front with -8 aircraft connection close to motor with manual ball valve controlled by a push/pull mechanical connection to driver area similar to the old "choke" control units from decades ago. You need to keep connection somewhat short and minimize bends for smooth operation. I use it a few seconds before start-up to prelube bearings on my 1500 cc Cortina ( old Cosworth style as used on Series 2 Lotus) and then leave it on until a second before shut down. Most racers just have unit in passenger side.

Ken- I have a very old nosecone from my series 1 that is fiberglass so I am betting it is a series 2 cone. really rough when I got car from UK but looks like it could be fixed up. You can have it since I am using a series 3 bought from Caterham years ago. Left you a message to call me 215-233-1666 ( leave message as we get too many bogus calls to pick up)