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Mine is secured with twisted safety wire.

This Kent engine has one of those fabricated oil sumps like the second one I destroyed. Pretty car.

BMW also uses TTY bolts quite a lot in suspension and structural fittings. My Z4s had a thick aluminum plate in front under the engine; a lot of folks thought it was just a skid plate but it was also a structural member of the chassis. All of the bolts were TTY. Torque was to X lb/ft, then another 90 degrees. Standard practice was to use the "single use" bolts two or possibly three times. I wouldn't do that with head bolts...

I got some cheap stick-on fuzzy thingies to put over the mics on my GoPro. They work remarkably well to muffle wind noise while letting throaty sounds come through.

I once saw a fellow named Hal Keck drive a 427 Cobra up Duryea Drive in Reading PA during the annual hillclimb event. He drove it like a sprint car around the switchbacks. Chuck it in, gas it to get the back end out, hold that pose until he saw daylight, then bam -- full gas. It was an unforgettable sight. (This was back when the Cobra was still a "new" car and race tires weren't as gummy as today.)

I will paypal you! Expect it any moment...

I braved the changeable weather yesterday and went to an all-English car show in nearby Hellertown PA, put on by the Keystone British Car Club. They tossed the 7 in with the "Lotus" group, which also included this. I must admit that it doesn't look quite as awkward in person as it does in pictures. The little bumblebee garnered a moderate amount of attention. People seemed to particularly like gawking at the engine. At the last gathering I attended, the horns decided to start working independently of any outward impetus, and continued blaring until they fried the relay (as I later discovered). It was mildly embarrassing to say the least. So I finally gave up on trying to make the horn button behave and installed a momentary toggle switch next to the steering wheel, where I can reach out my index finger and give it a tug. I think it looks appropriate.

I like the new logo and HUGELY appreciate the effort that has gone into it so far. I wish '.net' was going the other way though...

Good progress! Be sure to loosen all of the motor mount hardware while adjusting the transmission location. Get everything centered up, then tighten.

These are super helpful. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

Because Google's AI isn't all that intelligent, apparently. Despite my inclusion of the year, it insisted on giving me the PCD for the newer, FWD Elan.

Why do I keep seeing 4x100 for Elan bolt circle? (Mine Elan has knock-ons).

I have 5 JPC 13x6" wheels that I have decided to part with. They fit the Spitfire 3.75" bolt circle. They're in moderate shape, could use refurbishing to look their best. One of them has a rough looking mating surface. There are tires mounted on 4 of them now but I plan to have them removed. I haven't the slightest idea how much to charge for these so please don't be afraid to insult me with a lowball offer. Shipping can be arranged, I guess; I've never shipped wheels but I imagine boxes can be found. I can also bring the wheels to NJMP next week if anyone would like to see them... More pictures here: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B2BJtdOXm0fbDJf

Nixon. To save gas. You are correct, it did not go well. https://www.washingtonian.com/2022/03/15/the-us-tried-permanent-daylight-saving-time-in-the-70s-people-hated-it/

I expect you will hear a lot of folks tell you to go with 13" rims for weight savings, if not tire choice. I have 13" wheels on my Lotus twincam powered Caterham.

I recently learned that there are two flavors of VR1; semi-synthetic (I think?) and fully synthetic. Full synthetic comes in black bottles. I believe the biggest downside of high zinc in modern cars is that it can shorten catalytic converter life.

* Just pay shipping I found this module last week while diagnosing weird headlight and turn signal problems. It was bolted to the firewall behind the dash. It looks to have been a standard item, not added on by one of the owners for whatever engine they were putting in at the time. I don't need it, maybe you do.

Those are beautiful. Nice work!

Here's information for a Lotus Cortina conversion, may be helpful. https://www.lotus-cortina.com/electric/convert.htm

The website is woefully outdated. I also got what appeared to be an invitation to install a few viruses. So be sure your antivirus software is up to date before clicking! Here's an email address gleaned from the website: blugg@msn.com Google yielded a phone number: (847) 688-1234

I'm contemplating the same for a 1967 Lotus Elan. I've been told it's pretty straightforward. One tricky bit on that car is the tach, which is electronic and needs to be the correct ground. I would replace the generator altogether in my case. If originality is important they make alternators that look like generators.

"About dodges three times" LOL! Reminds me of the translation in the original Datsun 240Z owner's manual; "Beware deep puddles, for therein resides the Skid Demon."

It's tempting to go to a self-cancelling arrangement, I must admit. But I don't think it would solve the fast flash. I am going to double check the front wiring once more but I suspect what might eventually happen is some kind of electronic flasher such as this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/fl2-red-led-bulb-electronic-flasher-2-pin-red-american-flasher-and-bracket

That last picture is the only thing resembling a wiring diagram in my owner's manual. I think that may be due the car being specced with no engine; the wiring diagrams appear to be engine-specific. I sourced a Ford engine diagram, which helped me figure out why the high beams and low beams were working backwards. Also verified the turn signal wiring for the front lights. The wiring to the front lights on this car is a bit of a mess, a lot of amateur electrical work. Reading the relevant pages in the assembly manual doesn't help much; they read more like suggestions.

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