shiva

Here is the cage that was built on mine last year http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo86/bimmershop/IMG_2779.jpg http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo86/bimmershop/IMG_2778.jpg http://i364.photobucket.com/albums/oo86/bimmershop/IMG_2796.jpg Only lacking part is side impact. But since it's mostly a track car, t-boning protection is not my main priority.

I'm using the Davis Craig EWP115 with controller. The thermostat was completely remove as the instruction suggested. While warming up the pump will run 10 sec then off for 30 sec until it reach a certain temperature. Then it will modulate (PWM) the pump to try and keep the temp at the defined setting on the controller. It works very nice so far. Only trouble I had with it is that my alternator isn't able to feed enough power when the fan and pump are running. The voltage dips below 11v so the water pump controller fall in warning mode and lights the RED led I installed in the dash. It's not really plug and play, but once installed works very nice. Cold temperature can be troublesome since even when pulsing (10s on, 30s off) it cools too much and the engine never really reach operating temp. I need to tape off my nose code air entry a little in cold weather. But since my car is 90% track... not too big a problem for me. I wouldn't run that setup on a daily driver. (no thermostat)

The SR20DET runs slightly hot in my seven. Last winter I decided to attack the problem. It helped a lot, but still could be better. Ducting will probably be my next step. Here is what was done: - Installed a Koyo Civic radiator (model R1952 53mm) - Switched the fluid to Evans NPG+ - Removed the whole water pump assembly and installed a block plate with Temp sensor - Installed an electric water pump with PWM controller. I might have to change my fan to a good SPAL too. But otherwise on the track I run 90% without the fan. I just turn it on during the cooldown lap. The temp can rise up to 110-115c during hot day and hard driving. If I lift a little and drive 9/10 or 8/10 temp will go down to 105-110 quickly. Keep in mind that the SR20 runs good up to 120c so it's not as bad as some other engine that need to run cooler.

I can only imagine the feeling of having the blower 6 inches from your head! The sounds that thing must make! sweeet! Always loved those NSX.

Yup top notch company! Been using them for years and will keep doing so! they have freaking everything! lol

True... I didn't see that was you that posted the question. If you want to test you gauge. We could swap my gauge and see what's wrong with yours. Or even the sender if needed. I you want, email me in private and I'll send you my contact info. Jp

I have the same gauge on my car. Start looking at the wiring to be sure there is no mis-contract on any of the spade and wire. With the bulb hole in top looking at the back of the gauge Center is ground Left is signal Right is +12v Here is the installation diagram that says which wire is which. http://www.caigauge.com/_wp_generated/wp5d115bab.png

There are some good ideas on that car... Some are really bad. That would be a rain nightware. Exposed fuse box and battery. But I like the front fender and wing. And the dash is nicely layed out And no comment on the whole rear section of that car!

Nice! congratulations are in order! First picture look orange, but that's probably the camera! Enjoy your new toy!

I was wondering why my brother's 12 year old kid said it was his favorite movie! After going and seeing it, now I know!

The battery died on me since it's been too long since I started it. There is definitly a current draw somewhere. I'll try to trace it back when I start putting all my car's christmas gift in her! I miss riding in it for sure. But even is there was no snow everywhere it's still way too cold for a heater-less car. (-10c average) 3 more months and I'll be time to let her out!

Yah but those are Teachers!!! Wish I had a school with those kind of teachers too!

Most Volvo (S60 and up) are rated to 3500 lbs. Perfect for a small trailer and the Seven.

Earplugs are a great thing to have with those car. I always wear a pair when I do highway. Keep the ear buzzing away and the dizzyness

Been using the R888 as double-duty track/street tires... It's great tire, never seam to wear out. I've got over 10 track days on the same set and they are still full of thread (sadly! lol) But they don't have the grip of real slicks. A good threadwear 40 tire will be a couple seconds faster each turn that your average 100 TW (RA-1, R888, etc). But for the fun they provide, excellent starting rubber! And will last at least a full season.

You should try the Carbotech products... They are road (Bobcat) and multiple street/race and race compound. I use XP8 on my car and drive it on the road and can easily lock my front tires. And plenty of bite even with 300rwhp and 30mins track session.

Seamed to be exactly the feeling I had from passenger. I can stick in the back of Z06 corvette in the backstraight at Mont-Tremblant circuit. Speedo says around 220-230. But most of the time, my surge tank gets empty at 200ish. Depends on how hard I take the corners before the straight. The lotus has really poor drag coefficient.

If I remember correctly, the RA-1 has "wear dots" around the rubber. You can use those too as wear indicator. As Mike said, they are just starting to get good. On my miata I normally use them until there is no more line left. Great tires.

McLaren everytime... It has a purpose... a real one!

I just ordered a set of Toyo R888 in 225/45/16 front and 245/45/16 read. I've used the R888 before in 225/45/15`s on my miata. Hope the 16 are as good. Sometimes the sidewall can be a little different from one size to the other. Never heard of the NT05.. are those in the "extreme performance" category? We see of lot of new tire in that category lately (toyo R1R an such)

I'm so glad I had mine made. That's one of those thing that you wish you hope never to use. But when the time comes and you have it on, man you're glad! Same think with my Hans Device and nomex suit I use while racing. There are plenty of Seven, but only one of me!

you mean the car dodging photograph?

Interesting stuff... Only problem is that it would be hell to get the tank out and install those. I'll be using a solid state pump. Which has no wearable part. So sucking air from time to time shouldn't be much of a problem. Guess I'll see soon enough.

CAI as some nice gauge too. My seven is equipped with their whole catalog. RPM and speed has stepper motor. their oil pressure, water temp and boost gauge are pretty nice. Summit racing sells pressure switch. I'll be installing one in my fuel line. They are adjustable so you can fix the pressure threshold. Around 40 bucks I think.

Have the same problem on my car. Long right sweeper and I'll pump air instead of gas... Noooot good for a turbocharged engine. Anyhow, my solution is to install a surge tank in between the master tank and the engine. A low pressure pump fill the intermediate tank (2 liter) that would then gravity feed the high pressure pump. The design is simple but does add another pump. But this way I'm good for a good 30sec of full boosted WOT gas. Plenty to reach the next stretch and have the low pressure pump fill the small tank.