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Just leave a light bulb on, say a 60 watter incandescent and see what happens. :hat: I stored my Birkin on Kumho V700s in an unheated garage. Nothing unusual happened. Since I don't actually race or time attack, I wasn't too particular. m

Santa contracted out a rebuild for the engine to the Easter Bunny, and a starter rebuild to the thanksgiving Fairy over the last year. He'll contract out a Torque reduction starter to one of his agents this spring..maybe. m

As a person who despises texting alpha-numerics, I'm ashamed to say that I had no difficulty in reading the code. m

Yeppers. They have a similar defective genome as 7 owners do.:hat: m

I figure that I'm funny in the head for using a 7. These guys who run a single back wheel and aim between the heads of an H-D or V-Twin are the true Nutters. :jester: m

The black will look good once it's dirty,to my taste. A Satin black as opposed to the gloss would look good as well. :cooldude: What Muffler is that? m

There may be a loose blue wire with an insulated female spade lug that has power via the brake light switch. Location is in the vicinity of the right hand rear light cluster on my 2001. m

1, You must remove the rust...aggressively or the paint won't stick. POR 15 won't tolerate the heat. 2, Duplicolor hi temp engine enamel works well if #1 was done properly. 3, Comes in rattle cans. m

I think the E Type is the only car that looks like a living thing. Best looking car ever, imo. Congrats, Bruce. m

Orange Cat for me please. m

I use a Garmin Fortrex 200 as a more readable at a glance supplemental speedo. It is mounted on my steering wheel. It is accurate with the Birkin(obstructed by steering wheel) and the SPA speedos on the same car but cannot keep up when accelerating, Um, enthusiastically. It looked from the vid that the speedhut jobbie was having similar issues. The finish on the clock face looks a little cheap to me. It would be a good addition if one were designing their own dash layout, but is otherwise compromised when located behind the steering wheel. m

Happy Thanksgiving. m

An experienced recovery outfit that spends nothing on equipment. Who would thought that. Then they compound the error by poor placement and having to lift the car at least 10x higher that necessary. :banghead: m

Jez Coates said that it failed because the Elise also came to be, and it was more expensive than the Elise. It was a doomed conception. m

Thanks for the replies. Battery is fine. The delivery voltage stays above 12v. If it dropped to 10v when the key is at 'start' (crank) I'd suspect it. I'll try a Gustafson torque reduction unit, as the clutch kit is not stuck, or some other mechanical fault. m

I have a No start situation on my Birkin. It is a fresh rebuilt ZX1 with Kent FZ2001 cams and 10+:1 compression. I rebuilt the engine and switched to Weber DCOE X2 with an Alpha ignition system bought used from a owner of a ZX1 Powered Tiger in the UK. I bought an aftermarket Miata application battery. Things were ok for 250 miles. Then It seemed that the starter would strain to turn the engine over...Slow grind, then burst into life. I was thinking that the starter was stopping at a dead spot. Parked it for a couple of weeks. Went to use the car one day and the starter just thunks. No turn over at all. I took the starter in to a repair shop. He said the brushes looked good, but the solenoid was iffy so the solenoid was replaced. Put the new starter in and Same thing....a good strong thunk from the starter but no turn over. I put a wrench on the crank pulley bolt and the engine turns over normally. I rotated the engine x2. Put a Voltmeter on the battery...12.74 volts dropping to 12.1v on crank which is good. Ground cables are intact...battery to head, and block to frame X2. The only thing I can think of is that it behaves as if the starter is trying to turn the gearbox as in the whole gearbox physically with the flywheel. Anyone got any ideas?? It is looking like I'll have to pull the drive train out and see what's up in clutchville. m

Get a decent set of tyres under that beastie ASAP. :driving: m

I always thought that a downward pointing exhaust wouldmake less noise.( bounce the sound waves off the ground and so they would be reflected upward and dispersed in a semi spread bore pattern). The guy who welded my Birkin Exhaust commented that in drag racing circles, a downward aim of the outlet makes things louder. So now, I'm m

I recently converted to side exit, but replaced the muffler(Ultra-Flow ss). Mine is definitely louder with a lower tone. I miss the rasp. I'll keep the noise comment out of the opinion as it is down to what muffler you buy. The Good: 1, clothes no longer reek of exhaust/fuel Emissions. 2, Less weight. 3, Looks better...maybe. 4, Sweeps the floor, good leaf blower. The bad: 1, The turn out/down may inhibit egress. 2, You may need to fab up the heat shield if you change Muffler brand or dimension. m

I used 16 Psi cold x4 on 205 50 15 Kumho Victoracers which were R comps. If I carried a passenger, I would raise the rear pressures by 2 psi to prevent nasty understeer. Adding a passenger increases the vertical load on the rear tyres, and so shifts the balance of grip rearwards. Other members on this forum have used higher pressures. m

You get my vote for hardcore Se7ener Of 2011 Hope your shoulders DO get better though. m

"Trick" is not an appropriate response in this day and age. Oh well. I guess Gangbanger punks still like candy. m

I have the chrome on my car. I toyed with the idea of going flat black with the headlight buckets, but then I realized that I was using them for rearward vision blindspot checks. Eventually I'll get the car dechromed. Yellow and Black looks Mighty. m

Being a flat four, I doubt that it would fit a narrow bodied 7. A friend of mine had a 911 2.0 flat six in his standard dimension 7 years ago. being wide and air-cooled, the side panels on the car were..abbreviated. m

The Honda calipers use a bolt. No capture nut. Use blue locking compound and torque to spec. They use two 7 or 8 mm(key) Allen bolts. the bolts are orientated with the heads on the inside center line, going through the bracket first and then fixing the caliper. The caliper mounts on the road wheel side of each bracket. On my 2001 chassis. m