Hank

Ya'll keep pushing the Caterhams and other Se7en models, but I'd like my Westfield Megabusa to be rare so don't mention them. Glad you got the bug! Wait till you build one.

Megabusa here, Hayabusa motorcycle engine: Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Tranny shares the same oil with the engine and if you don't use a motorcycle oil with specific additives the tranny doesn't last long. Even though it's $9.50 a quart and I run 8.5 quarts I plan to change the oil every race. Ouch!

Car runs great. I took the header off and sent it to Jet Hot to get recoated. Westfield put a ceramic coating on the header but fingerprints and weld slag made it look really crappy when the engine warmed up. I cleaned the header with rubbing alcohol before I cranked the engine. The damage must have been done in the coating process. I ordered a Bailey Morris driveshaft kit to eliminate the reverse box. That should be in next week. I ordered $600 in carbon fiber from Carbon Mods in the UK. Pictures will follow when the bits come in. Woo whoo! I can't wait to weigh her, corner scale her, alignment, certification, then drive on the street! Damn all of these final details...

I demand a recount.

Problem is the entire body is gel-coat fiberglass so it isn't painted. Am I to worry that if I paint the nose and hood it won't match the body which is unpainted? I have to keep reminding myself that it's a race car first and a street/show car second.

Man, I didn't expect it to be that much! Local company quoted me $995 to put a clear film on my nosecone and hood for my Westfield Megabusa. I don't even think the product is that great either, Digishield. Only other 2 I've heard of is 3M and Xpel. Anyone have thoughts on which one I should go with? Keep in mind I'm a road racer so I don't think there is any option in NOT running a clear shield on the nosecone and hood. The front cycle wings + mud flaps might protect the sides of my car. I ordered carbon fiber rear arch protectors. Anybody else deal with putting a clear shield on these 2 pieces? I'd like to see what you paid for it. Thanks.

Sorry to hear your bad luck, but it sounds like you finally got the right combination in there!

Congrats on being published Moti!

That's funny right there. I don't care who ya are.

Congrats! How long did it take to get certified?

Bloody hell!

My plan for the rear of my MEGABUSA is to use the rear fog location for the reverse light. Once I get registered for road use in a few weeks I will remove the reverse box and replace the driveshaft assembly with a driveshaft assembly with carrier bearing. I will then swap the reverse light lense for the fog light lense. I'll definitely use it in the fog and a hard rain storm (if I'm caught in one)! Some forms of racing (professional mind you) require a blinking light in the rear during rain. The hole for the rear fog (reverse light until after road certification) is going to be where the 3 holes are next to my passenger side brake light shown here: http://hanksmegabusa.com/images/020509/05.jpg

Not until I put the car into the alignment rack.

John: I am running front and rear ARBs so my camber will definitely be less in the front. I am running the factory Westfield recommended rake (115mm front, 130mm rear). Dave: see post #3 above. Caster is non-adjustable. Did I mention I will be running 13" slicks for racing and 15" street tires for road use?

Maybe I need to start another thread on race slicks for roadcourse use? I'll probably use the 15" wheels with Falken Azenis RT-615s for autox. No clue on what 13" slicks to buy. Hoosier? Avon?

I believe the Megabusa caster is non-adjustable as it is set by the offset of the top a-arm on the suspension. Thanks for the links!

Okay, so I have a dilemma here. I'm ready for an alignment on the Megabusa, but I don't know what to do. I'd like to run an aggressive alignment for autox and roadcourse duties, but I don't want to kill my street wheels/tires. I do not own any of the track side alignment equipment like other grassroots racers own. And I don't want to go to the alignment shop before every race and then back afterwards. So, how do other Se7en owners deal with setting an aggressive race alignment and then drive your vehicle on the street for extended periods? Here's a fairly aggressive alignment from WSCC regarding the Megabusa. Your thoughts? ~950lb car 15" wheels, 205/50 tires 2 deg neg camber front 1mm toe out front 1 deg neg camber rear 1mm toe out rear I doubt the toe settings would stay the same if I decided to finish racing and dial the front camber back to 1 deg negative and drive on the street for a few days. I'd leave the rear alone. Essentially I'd like to run 1 deg neg all around for street use and the settings above when I race. Comments?

For the record she took 8.5 quarts. ouch!

Happy Birthday old fart. Now out with the pics!

Has the car been sitting up and field mice had access to it? They like to nibble on wiring harnesses. Check for mice poo around the perimeter of the car.

Tap the starter with a hammer?

Thanks for sharing. Very nice video.

Thanks for the compliments. Redline is 10,500 rpm Revlimiter is set at 11,500 rpm

SHE'S ALIVE! First crank (okay maybe the 2nd) of the MEGABUSA.

Congrats on completing the project and reaping the benefits of actually driving/racing it!