Hank

I cannot stand when a website forum makes you register to view damn pictures. Sorry for the rant, but that will hurt people being able to see it.

I ordered carbon mods rear arch protectors for the front half of each fender, and the remaining part of each arch will be covered in clear shield.

Good news, I just talked a local rep into swapping clear shield paint protection for a website. No money out of pocket, and I get to advertise my car on his website for custom work. I'll post up the link when the website is done. FWIW, his quote was $900 (hood, nosecone, front cycle wings) before I talked him into a website.

That's a very nice gauge pod. How much is something like that going to cost us Sheeple?

I would cover the entire sump too because you might hit an obstacle in reverse! Cheers.

Josh, Disregard the PM I sent you asking for pics of your new ride. I should have read the board before I opened my private messages. Looks great! I want to see video. Hank

I'm definitely going to get a second quote on the clear shield as soon as I finish fitting the front cycle wings and minor body alignment this weekend. Damn this takes forever! But, the more time I take aligning the body the better it will look, right?

So Thomas Smith, Technical Director and all, can spell Valvoline but he can't spell valvetrain and he wrote rpms? Fooey. Other than that article I haven't heard any negative press on Mobil 1 at all. Hell, maybe it's a conspiracy.

He is packing the power of 2-3 Se7ens so it only seems fair for him to add weight so the ratio stays the same.

Ya'll keep pushing the Caterhams and other Se7en models, but I'd like my Westfield Megabusa to be rare so don't mention them. Glad you got the bug! Wait till you build one.

Megabusa here, Hayabusa motorcycle engine: Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Tranny shares the same oil with the engine and if you don't use a motorcycle oil with specific additives the tranny doesn't last long. Even though it's $9.50 a quart and I run 8.5 quarts I plan to change the oil every race. Ouch!

Car runs great. I took the header off and sent it to Jet Hot to get recoated. Westfield put a ceramic coating on the header but fingerprints and weld slag made it look really crappy when the engine warmed up. I cleaned the header with rubbing alcohol before I cranked the engine. The damage must have been done in the coating process. I ordered a Bailey Morris driveshaft kit to eliminate the reverse box. That should be in next week. I ordered $600 in carbon fiber from Carbon Mods in the UK. Pictures will follow when the bits come in. Woo whoo! I can't wait to weigh her, corner scale her, alignment, certification, then drive on the street! Damn all of these final details...

I demand a recount.

Problem is the entire body is gel-coat fiberglass so it isn't painted. Am I to worry that if I paint the nose and hood it won't match the body which is unpainted? I have to keep reminding myself that it's a race car first and a street/show car second.

Man, I didn't expect it to be that much! Local company quoted me $995 to put a clear film on my nosecone and hood for my Westfield Megabusa. I don't even think the product is that great either, Digishield. Only other 2 I've heard of is 3M and Xpel. Anyone have thoughts on which one I should go with? Keep in mind I'm a road racer so I don't think there is any option in NOT running a clear shield on the nosecone and hood. The front cycle wings + mud flaps might protect the sides of my car. I ordered carbon fiber rear arch protectors. Anybody else deal with putting a clear shield on these 2 pieces? I'd like to see what you paid for it. Thanks.

Sorry to hear your bad luck, but it sounds like you finally got the right combination in there!

Congrats on being published Moti!

That's funny right there. I don't care who ya are.

Congrats! How long did it take to get certified?

Bloody hell!

My plan for the rear of my MEGABUSA is to use the rear fog location for the reverse light. Once I get registered for road use in a few weeks I will remove the reverse box and replace the driveshaft assembly with a driveshaft assembly with carrier bearing. I will then swap the reverse light lense for the fog light lense. I'll definitely use it in the fog and a hard rain storm (if I'm caught in one)! Some forms of racing (professional mind you) require a blinking light in the rear during rain. The hole for the rear fog (reverse light until after road certification) is going to be where the 3 holes are next to my passenger side brake light shown here: http://hanksmegabusa.com/images/020509/05.jpg

Not until I put the car into the alignment rack.

John: I am running front and rear ARBs so my camber will definitely be less in the front. I am running the factory Westfield recommended rake (115mm front, 130mm rear). Dave: see post #3 above. Caster is non-adjustable. Did I mention I will be running 13" slicks for racing and 15" street tires for road use?

Maybe I need to start another thread on race slicks for roadcourse use? I'll probably use the 15" wheels with Falken Azenis RT-615s for autox. No clue on what 13" slicks to buy. Hoosier? Avon?

I believe the Megabusa caster is non-adjustable as it is set by the offset of the top a-arm on the suspension. Thanks for the links!