HOTTTCAR

What's wrong with the front fender... That can't be right, can it?

They are better than Wally World plastic chocks.....you don't have to have some one pull em for you and jump in

I have also used Wilwood parking brakes. At least from my experience I would say...Don't waste your time or money they are virtually worthless. Looking for a better way. Gale

I have a great local supplier in Joplin that I can go in with a shank length list and measure each one to get what I want. There were still a couple that I had to add a grade 8 washer to the nylock side to get a nut on properly. Gale

I am an old air plane builder, so I noticed the thread loading problem also....... I bought all new grade 8s that had the right shank length and of course removed the excess thread to save weight. When I disassembled a Vett on another project, I noticed all suspension parts were fastened properly also so it is a practice that has found its way into autos also. Gale

Haven't had any problem with the rear end yet but it's all after market stuff. This car has never been on a drag strip but it gets driven hard ...... track n street. The first car we built ....stock 3800SC super Storker is amazingly bullet proof....and is still going great after thousands of wide open miles. Gale

Nope. Sorry, not something I was interested in remembering . When experimenting with this much torque and big wide stickey tires you find all the weak links pretty quickly. Last time I pulled the balls out of the upper heim joints in the trailing arms, causing the differential to rotate, which also broke the u joint and little pieces off my elbow. Hope I have no more surprises. That would be good. Gale

I used a quick time also. A More likely scenario that has happened to me twice.....rear u joint failure causing major damage to your elbow when the loose drive shaft comes thru the tunnel. 550 ft. lbs. snaps off both s10 trunnions very cleanly. Had to have a new pinion yoke machined to accept .77" solid trunnions and caps. Finally installed a drive shaft retaining loop to keep it from flopping around, if it breaks again. Gale

I put a 3.23 in mine and it is perfect for me. I will do the same in the XL. With r88s and 4 inches of travel on the peddle, wheel spin is easy to control. It's very close to the ZO6.....just a lot more acceleration in every gear. I have a tko600 which is way too slow to shift, but for the street its fine. The first time I speed shifted my TKO 600 at 7000rpm I thought I had destroyed it, but instead of missing the gear it just didn’t go into gear. At high rpm it takes so long for the synchronizers to line the dogs up that you have to be patient. You have to apply force to the shifter and be patient until it goes in gear. This is to slow for racing. Tko makes a faster one. They do it by getting rid of the brass cone clutches, widening the slots for the dog teeth so they will engage faster. By doing this you get what is called a Dog Box or Crash box, which shifts very fast but when the dogs engage it is not syncro-smooth…..clunk. I will use aT56 Magnum on the XL. Gale

Prolifically inebriated .

The reason I asked.......my LS7 crate came in with clutch pressure plate and flywheel. Gale

Did you specify a flex plate or is that standard issue for a crate LS3? Gale

JEVS Is that a crate ls3 or an ls3 E-ROD . Would love to see uncovered pics of the front and back as they have shipped it, either way. Gale

Jegs also will do a price match and they also seem to stock most of the big ticket items I have needed. Gale

The fuel sensor usually is specific to the gauge. That brings up another issue....placement of the fuel cell. In a seven there is not a lot of choice but I would like to get a bit more distance between the back of the car and the fuel cell. I like the removable storage trunk between the fuel cell and the back of the car like Westfield. In an M XL This would put the fuel cell above the rear end and most likely would require three ( custom ) oddly shaped tanks. With the reclining seats however there may be room behind the seats like Corvette, GTM, etc. Gale

John The way my silver car is now I am setting almost straight up. There is not enough room to get me into a semi reclining position. This results in tall roll bars and the big bird affect, or possibly no problem if you are short. The XL allowes you to recline the seat making it way more comfortable for long runs and a lot less damaging to your back when you hit a bad road. It's like setting in a recliner......very comfortable. This also allowes you to shorten the roll bars, which makes the car look lower and wider. I like that. I also like the 3" diam. Roll bars. The problem is getting the rear end higher on the bottom side like an ultra light or a RCB. On a classic it's easy just cut the lower non structural frame work away and weld up a more tilted up floor. This will require a different fuel cell and will cause more of the differential to be visible like an ultralight. On the MSPEC XL it doesn't look to be quite as easy.....due to the IRS structural frame components but it is doable. Gale

John I am sorry. That is a little confusing. I bought an M Spec XL which I will adjust to look like a straight hood classic by changing the rear clip. And Scott is correct this car looks much larger. So now they are also building an XL Classic and an XL M Spec? Gale

John These cars are made in Germany by RCB. Love the back end of those in the shop. It makes the car look wide and very cool. Following an ultralight on one of the Texas tours got me hooked on the way that car looks from the rear. A RCB is similar but more refined, I believe. Beauty as you know is in the eye of the beholder. By the way, I am the other person that purchased the components to build a classic XL. We seem to have some similar ideas on what we want, as I bought the no bump hood plus scuttle. I had Brunton Auto (Scott) band saw a classic rear end in half and ship it to me so I can use it as as starting point for the new rear end. Having a starting point helps making a new part less time consuming. I can’t say I like working with fiberglass but the satisfaction you can get by building a cool part blows me away. Its going to take a bit of cutting and welding on the rear clip supporting frame work to get what I want but that part is easy. I will bend up my own windshield frame from 1.5” DOM for the same reason you stated. This car will have a new emod LSA and a t56 magnum. This gets the torque and HP up over 500, which I have grown accustomed to. I also have a GTM,… an early one #77…. chop-chop-cut–cut, jeez. You learn a lot on that car. Its still not finished. I got caught up in building and driving Storkers This will be our third Storker build. Always wanted a real Mini and was ready to buy one at Carlisle a few years ago but as luck would have it my better half talked me out of it. Still wish i had bought it Gale

John How do you like these rear ends. http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/Decorated%20images/12213_zpsae9f8650.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/Decorated%20images/12213_zpsae9f8650.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/Decorated%20images/thumb6_zps586815ed.jpg Gale

Thinking out of the box a bit, why not just increase the size of the master cylinder to a 1 inch so you can leave your foot on the clutch pedal. This increases the force required to depress the pedal so you will not accidentally slip the clutch. A 1 inch master pumps more fluid, so don’t forget to put a stop behind the pedal so you don’t blow out the slave. http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/12-30-12016_zpsfdb8b8c2.jpg

We were leaving Out Back, just getting into the car when this guy pulls up behind us in his big new pickup. He leaned out and yelled "did Obama buy you that car?" My wife who is very quick responded ..Fu*k no i'm a Republican. The guy drove off.....still don't have a clue what that was all about.

I sat in it also. I'm 6'3" and 240lb. I fit me so well I bought one also. It's a beautiful well built car. MB7....enjoy!

I forgot to look at how Scott moved the shifter back when I was there also. But this is what I did and it works very nicely. There is a very thin silicon lubricated Teflon washer between the moving joint at the shifter stub. I still had to cut the dash and tilt the bottom bit out slightly to clear the shifter stub. This set up is somewhat throw adjustable also. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=17720 Gale

NVP66S You are correct it was a joke no matter how politically incorrect. It was a good speech. But My wife makes the bed.........:rofl: Gale

Now i know why I didn't get any thing done yesterday. I didn't make the friggin bed.