HOTTTCAR

No, thecable runs inside next to the floor and the vertical tunnel wall basically under the seat and exits thru the back panel behind the seat. No good pics but here is one with out the protective cover, with the cable bracket clamped in place before welding it in place. I had to use the chain and clevis to allow the whole thing to operate smoothly and last thru many cycles without failing. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=17553 Gale

Have you thought of putting it in the passenger foot well just in front of the seat. It also keeps the cable out of the tunnel and is very convienent to get to. Mocked up it looks like this. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=17553

A Miller mig with a spool gun for aluminum is the best for me. It's easy. I am not coordinated enough to tig any thing.......using two hands 1 finger, one foot coordinated by both eyes in the dark......it would take a lot of practice for me to get an acceptable weld. I just don't want to spend the time when Mig is so easy. Gale

I had Brunton add a very heavy couple of layers of 90 degree glass on the inside bottom of the hood where the hinges are bolted. It's the same stuff they use for extra structure in glass boats, very stiff.... 1 prop in the wind is no problem now but I still use 2. I will do the same on the XL. Gale

I bought mine from McMaster but this place has the biggest variety of rubber molding I have found and they will ship you samples so you can try it out inorder to get the right one for the job. Literally hundreds to choose from. Gale http://www.restorationspecialties.com Gale

For those of you who don't know Bugsy. He is also very fast in that car. The most famous race at a USA7s meet was between Bugsy and John Meyers in his 500 hp Storker. They are both real racers. It was fun to watch.:hurray: Gale

I think it is at the point for a redirect if you type in Storker.

jevs n Brit You are right, part of it came out of my GTM when I switched to cable shift. I have used this extension idea twice. Once on 119 above the tunnel and on this car under the tunnel top. Both joints on 11 have a thin but large surface area Teflon bearing to allow smooth shifts with no play in the mechanism. The bolts are tight enough to get the feel i like. The shifter on 119 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=15947 is an aftermarket product and works well but not being made of as substantial materials as 11, makes it less precise. You can't tell from shifting 11 that there is an extension. 3000 miles of spirited driving so far with no problems. Gale

Brit Here is another simple way to move the shifter in front of the dash and put it in a more convenient place next to the steering wheel. It allows you to still be able to use the lower dash for instrumentation and switches. In this case I cut the bottom of the dash off and glassed it back on with the bottom tilted slightly out infront of the shifter stub. Gale http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=17720

Love it. Very nice design. Simple and clean.

This is the current pump/sump/intank strainer sock assembly i am using. http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/fuelpumpassm_zps8b94cd15.jpg I had changed the sock to a much finer after market sock from Walbro if i remember correctly. THis proved to be problematic. I developed a fuel flo problem and when i pulled the pump assembly I found this jel which looked like glass beads covering the sock. Inside the tank there was more. It has the consistancy of jello and is very flammable. It acts a lot like the napalm we used to make in the lab. Any ideas? http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r280/HOTTTCAR/tankjell015_zps39a58896.jpg

I used the summit 230105 filter at the engine. I used a slightly altered Silverado---Bosch Automotive 67381: Electric In-Tank fuel pump assembly minus the sender. (Already had a gauge specific sender) It has two check valves in the bottom, one that fills the sump tank thru a sock and the other without a sock. The return line pumps into the sump tank, so on long high G corners or acceleration with a low fuel level you don't run out of fuel (theoretically). It is easy to remove and install the sump tank/pump assembly (4 SS bolts & 3 quick disconnects). The assembly is spring loaded so it is held solidly against the bottom of the tank (I had to extend the leg tubes however to fit my tank) The problem with this device is that it was designed to pump 50 psi fuel to LS truck engines and would not supply enough fuel to maintain 60 psi at 7000rpm at full load on an LS7. The pump had to be changed to a Walbro 255 lph, high pressure pump, which fits well and solves the problem. The Corvette fuel filter regulator also does not work with an LS7--It puts out 50psi instead of 60 psi. Gale

Had that in a car a few years ago. A couple of the u-joint needle bearings had failed and the trunnions were rattling around inside the caps. Got it fixed before the joint broke loose. Gale

Have you noticed how easily either of the two ears on a Wilwood master cylinder can be removed....70 bucks down the hatch.

I bought a new 427 convertible grand sport because we liked our Zo6 but wanted basically a ZO6 convertiable......(same engine and trans). This thing is very fast. The LS 7 Storker how ever makes the Vett seam like a family car. When you get used to that much ass twitching power it changes your perspective. I was with an instructor who was showing me how fast a customers 500 hp $250000 special order Porsche was. He was really ringing it out ......all the time telling me that this was the fastest Porsche made. It handled and stopped beautifully like my Vett but it didn't accelerate even close to a zo6 when coming out of the corners. I expected to blown away by this car but a $ 20,000 Miata powered Locost 7 that was on the track at the same time just went off and left the Porsche. I would prefer to have both, the 7 for shear fun in the sun and the Vett to get from point a to point b comfortably. Just for me when looking at value between Porsche and Vett it was an easy choice. Gale

Skinny?? You must be thinking of Lana. I passed skinny 80 lbs. ago. Gale

Very enjoyable to watch. Thanks

I used Dakota Gauges on my sons Storker # 119. It is very simple to to wire up and program. It's a high quality product with great support. I broke a switch and they sent me a new one, no charge, no hassel. Gale

DeanG Your car is beautiful.... Not surprised you won BOS. We were part of the Ambush group you met at the MC museum. Thanks for showing us your car. Gale

I ended up with 570-41900. ...18 inch ....perfect fit for me. The wings on 47700 would get to be a pain {FOR ME} after a while but are great on the track. Would like to have a seat with removable wings Gale

Mine are Kirkey also. The seats in the silver super Storker are also Kirkey but are setting in the car almost vertically. This is not the most comfortable position for long blats or bad bumps. The XL gives you room to recline the seats into a very comfortable recliner like position, and with a little “clearancing” and fabrication , side glides fit also. Gale

They keep getting more and more refined.

We are in Murphy now headed for a fun time in north Georgia, NC, Tenn. .........pre Ambush exploring.

We came down tail o dragon with the RV pulling the Storker on a car trailer......thanks to Garmin.....that was fun. The kid that kindly helped stop oncoming traffic on tight curves got killed the next day ... On the same road on his motor cycle ..... Posted on the Kill Boy site. Gale

Thanks Scannon, that explains it. Gale