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Mount the bike mirrors to the Persplex defectors. I made some little alloy brackets that bolt under the hinge screws. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1823892321_IMG_1635.jpg Here's what it looks like from a distance. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1007465124_IMG_0199.jpg Of course, this solution won't work when you have the side screens on.

Second hole closest to the pivot is for the return spring. Both nuts are on the outside, locking the cable length adjustment. I keep a pre-adjusted spare cable in the boot for emergencies, although I've never had to use it. The skills involved are minimal. It can be done on the hard shoulder in a jam. Just be careful not to drop anything into the lever opening of the clutch housing. Here's a piccy.

Skip, There's a fellow that lives up Big Thompson Canyon at Viestenz-Smith Mountian Park that has a real nice example of a Maxton. He brings it out to the Loveland Friday Cruz Nites occasionally. I can't recall his name, but he's an employee of the City of Loveland. The car is blue with a 13B, single 45DCOE Weber induction. He's got all the weather gear and such as well. Looks very much like a Seven inspired chassis design, but with improved creature comforts. I was shocked at the roominess of the cockpit. Even more room than the SV Caterham. Footwell even has room for a dead pedal.

With the AP two pot rear calipers, my "handbrake" is an 8" bit of 2X4. Not real convenient to deploy at stop lights.

There are a number of things to consider here, one of which is the transfer of rotational torque to the chassis. (flex and twist of the wishbones) Since the diff is mounted to the chassis, the wishbones are not transferring any acceleration torque, however if the brakes are mounted to the uprights you still have to transfer braking torque. If the calipers are mounted to the diff the wishbones transfer no rotational torque. Inboard brakes will allow a substantially flimsier system to be used.

I say "Lotus Caterham Seven". Usually most don't ask the kit car question as they are baffled by the steering wheel on the shoulder side. "Why is the steering wheel on the wrong side?" "I deliver mail to pay for the petrol." -or- "It puts the driver on the inside of the race track." (This one gets the NASCAR fans scratch'n)

A 1000lb. extinguisher will seem inadequate when you see your pride and joy begin to ignite.:cry: I figure 2.5lbs. should handle a Seven fire and still be small enough to stow. I use 5lbs. in a tin top. Your mileage may vary... As a guideline, most sanctioning bodies that allow(require) hand held extinguishers require 2.5lb. edited to add: When you go to track days and autotests, have your own 10lb. BC available in your paddock area. That's were many fires start or get noticed.

Halon is still the best agent for fire fighting. Only the Europeans have fully banned haloalkanes in their never ending grasp of pathological "green" science. There are other alternative gasses such as FE-13. Much more expensive though. Halon can save your life and your car. Regardless of one's opinion of the ozone depletion propaganda, preservation of life and property comes first. All the discharges of fire fighting agents in history amount to zilch in terms of environmental impact. Remember, they are only used in an emergency. Hopefully you'll never have to use yours. If you do, it can be refilled. I use the Amerex halon 1211 hand held bottle in my car. It sits longitudinally in the victim's foot well. I tried mounting it laterally, but it would be hard to remove for use by the driver. Your larger chassis might have a bit more room allowing sideways mounting in front of the seat. If you want a cheaper ( "greener" ) alternative, get a BC rated sodium bicarbonate extinguisher. This is the DOT recommended fire fighting agent for the trucking industry. Unlike the typical ABC rated monoammonium phosphate Walmart extinguisher, sodium bicarb doesn't dissolve aluminium and pot metal. Since there is no "A" rating it won't extinguish combustibles like wood and fabric. Not a huge problem in a Seven. AFFF foam extinguishers are another possibility. Many plumbed in race car systems are using this now. Make sure you take the tank inside come winter as it will freeze and burst. IMHO,too much hassle for a street driver. CO2 is not an acceptable alternative for automotive use. Pegasus sells the Amerex Halon 1211 hand held extinguisher I found this really good buy on Kidde BC extinguishers. I think this is the size you need. Better go to the Kidde web site for dimensions though. These are probably refillable, but at 26 clams I'd just bin it each year.

Tried three different browsers with no luck. Maybe we're full up. One more try... http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/829027044_IMG_1617.jpg Hey! now it works again!

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Thanks for the Pistonheads link, Sean. I hadn't visited there before. I noted Pistonheads is were the Blatchat poo flingers now seem to congregate.

Anyone been able to connect to Blatchat in the last several days? All I get is an SQL server error.

Look into the Piloti line of shoes. They are a bit more expensive than the Nikes, around 80-100 clams. although they are sold as "racing type"shoes they are not Nomex and I would only use them for casual driving. IMHO, the shoes seem to be rugged enough for everyday use and the styling is rather good. Pegasus Racing and Safe Racer have Pilotis in stock.

There are quite a few Se7eners using this solution for indicators. In fact, there was a recent bulk buy put together on Blatchat: Signal Dynamics I believe this is the same module (and price) offered by Speedway motors. Here's a link that shows how to wire the SDC module using a replacement momentary indicator switch in the original Caterham location. This circuit retains the original Hazard switch function as well. SDC Wiring -Bob

The red is stunning!

Just to clear things up...or muddle them more; The 15" rear wheels on Tom's car are 9" wide CSR wheels. I've had them on my pre 96 chassis with no issues, save maybe the stock over-running ARB. My ARB is highly modified to fit.(bent) The offset is just a tiny bit less than the 15 X 9 Kodiaks and 225/50/15 tires that I normally run. The tires on the Kodiaks run a good .250". away from the radius rods. I don't have any scuffs in the powder coat. The CSR wheels and Avons run 3/8" away.

I think I figgered it out. I cleared the USA7s link from my bookmarks and speed dial. Typed in USA7s on the address bar and re-saved the link. Now everything works well.:thumbs: Seems Opera was sending an "images=0" command to the forum software with my old link.

I just switched from Mozilla Firefox to Opera 9.50, mostly for speed reasons. The Opera instalation on my home laptop does weird things with the USA7s forum. No pictures and the top half of the forum is blank. I have to page down to see the listings. The install at work doesn't seem to do this so I know it's something I'm doing wrong. I doesn't seem to matter wether I'm logged in or just visiting. Anyone else using Opera? Any suggestions?

Thanks for all the tips Gert. After looking at the problems involved, I determined it would be easier to wait until winter and post my Emerald back to Karl and have the K3 update done. It seems that serial numbers after 41272 can get the hardware/firmware upgrade to the K3 model for around 30 quid. My serial is 42379. I understand they also install an internal baro sensor that would render the whole external sensor exercise academic. For the time being, I purchased a cheap, light weight Win2000 tablet PC to dedicate to the car. It's small enough to stash behind the victim's seat as well. Should work nicely for data logging. I plan to have a high altitude map available to flash the ECU when required.

Hi Gert, That's exactly what I was looking for! My M3DK was one of the last to go out the door without the internal baro sensor. I'll contact Karl and see if I need the updated firmware for the injector dead time situation. Can the updated firmware be flashed onto the Emerald, or is it a chip change? I know the proper thing to do is ship my ECU back to Emerald for the K3 upgrade. I just don't want to be without a car during the summer months. Maybe this winter... Altitude comp became a goal after the trip to Aspen for LOG 2007. For the most part the car ran fine. Going over Independence pass it was a little down on power, being a tad rich, but very drivable. Over 8000 feet the idle became quite rich, loading plugs and such. I'm comparing this to earlier trips with Weber 48DCOEs. Surprisingly, the Webers worked quite well during the mountain pass segments of USA2005. The pressure sensor I have in mind is the Freescale MPX4100AP. The output is linear, 105kPa =4.8vdc and 20kPa = .3vdc @5.0Vs. I think this should be rather easy to calibrate for. I'll let you know how I get on.

I'm adding a 1 bar MAP sensor to my ECU to be used for baro compensation. Does anyone have some starting values for the Emerald "Manifold Pressure Compensation" map? I can guess the ignition corrections but I'm a little at loss for the injection corrections.

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/805046478_Image24.jpg

I don't know the exact calculations, but I was getting 90 miles per fill up. Standard Caterham tank with 48DCOE Webers. The fuel injection is much better. I can go nearly 170 miles now. Personally, I find treating a Seven as an economy vehicle rather impossible. How can one resist the urge to firmly plant the welly at every possible opportunity? :thumbs: This post to be read by enthusiasts only. The author can not be held responsible for adverse reactions from spouses and/or parties with controlling influence of the aforementioned enthusiast.

Sevens and Elans or Rocky Mountain Sportscars should have them in stock.

I get that stuff on a blank page after posting a reply. A reload doesn't seem help. FWIW...Mozilla 2.0.0.2