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bsimon

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Everything posted by bsimon

  1. If in doubt...swap about. Swap #3 and #4 injectors and try again. It's only two screws and a couple a Jesus clips.
  2. Hi Gert, That's what i have in mind, only I was going to make the hose from the FPR to the fuel rail a bit longer. I was talking to a chap that races (drag) a Mitsubishi AWD something or another . He mentioned that most of the racers don't dead end the fuel rail to keep the fuel cooler. There's less heat soak before the engine consumes the go juice. Also, air can get trapped and lean you out on startup. Newer cars are all dead headed to keep the hot fuel in the rail until it's used up. Just the oposite of what the ideal high performance setup would be. It seems the heated fuel creates more vapor in the fuel tank and makes the evaporative emissions systems work overtime to keep those vapors in check. I have a feeling that the issues the rice racer brings up are one of those 10/10ths improvements that keeps them from trailering early at a race. I'm leaning towards retaining the loop system, mostly because I've figured out a simple way to access the front of the fuel rail without a long hose run. I have some mild concerns about heat soak from the elevated temps under the bonnet of a Seven. I got pretty handy with the hard line bender and made a return tube that clamps right to the fuel rail. Now, all the hose connections will come of the aft end of the engine. I'll post some piccys when the engine is back in the chassis.
  3. I posted this on BC as well... A virtual spaghetti factory of hoses and wires has been created under my bonnet with a few years of upgrades. Now the addition of a dry sump system exacerbates the situation. I want to clean up the engine bay. With the engine out of the chassis, I've already neatened up the wiring and breather lines. The fuel system is the next job. Currently I'm running the pressure line to the front of the fuel rail and have the FPR and return line mounted on the rear. This was the classic method suggested when I first installed the fuel injection. Not very neat, but it works well. What if I mounted the FPR (3 port type) on the chassis with the pressure and return lines attached, then run a single short hose to the fuel rail? The other end of the fuel rail would be capped off. The fuel system would be all 3/8 (-6AN) hard lines through the chassis with a 10 inch run of -6AN Goodridge 910 hose from the FPR to the rail. My fuel pump is a 255lt/hr. rated unit out of a Camaro. I don't think there would be much in the way of pressure fluctuations with this setup. Any thoughts? I see the current CC chassis are doing essentially this by mounting the FPR in the tank or rear axle area and running a single line through the chassis to the fuel rail. Cosworth recommends this setup with their 250 HP Duranail lumps as well.
  4. Ah yes, a perfect example of the benefits of Keynesian economics and nationalization. /sarc Welcome to Zimbabwe my freind.
  5. I hope someone chimes in here with the proper torque specs. The Caterham build manual has you nick up the 12mm bell housing and gearbox bolts to 45 ft lbs. This sounds about right considering the size of the fastener. Typical 7mm clutch cover bolts are usually 11 ft lbs with Loctite 243 bolt gradoo. I strongly recommend a cross check with a Haynes or Ford manual for those clutch cover bolts. They're somewhat critical. I'm in the process of putting the engine back into the chassis of my car as well. All I can say is check and double check everything as you go. We don't need to be pulling our engines out for the sake of missing some little detail. The weather is getting too nice to be spannering in the shed.
  6. The Ecotec would be a good choice for a Se7en. There is some historical heritage in that particular powerplant and Sevens. The Ecotec is the latest evolution in the long line of Generation II GM engines that began with the Cosworth KB, also known as the Vauxhall/Opel/Holden C20XE. Caterham offered these Gen II engines in their HPC chassis in the 90s and early 00s.
  7. Ditto the comments on the ShiftI. I had one in my car for 3 or 4 years now and it's absolutely brilliant! I mounted mine on the scuttle above the steering wheel. My seating position puts it in sight right over the top of the wheel.
  8. Odd as it may seem, most modern CRBs are designed to stay in contact with the clutch fingers. This alleviates the need to touch off and speed up the bearing thereby saving finger wear. I don't know if your particular setup is meant to work this way but most Fords are. Ford even does this on their cable actuated release bearing setups. Modern release bearing technology has come a long way since the old graphite carbon throwout bearings that would die quickly if ridden.
  9. This web site pretty much sums up the culinary possibilities.Clicky
  10. Mobil-1 15W50 There seems to be a lot of people that think solid lifter XEs like that stuff.
  11. Too bad the drawings aren't available in some type of vector format.
  12. Stumbled upon this today... http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/cldetails?mid=18a2c470b3e6ce98ac0c05b8eb4d8560 Nice renderings of Se7en components. The chassis looks to be the CSR variant. Fits right in with Martin's "slow day at work" work.
  13. No. The wing didn't change. It's still the same as the S-3 Lotus. Only the protectors where made larger in 1996. There's still a left and right part, the left being shorter. Give 'em a break, Duratecs have only been around a couple of years. Caterham will probably *shorten* the right wing to match the left about the time they're converting to some new engine line with the exhaust back on the other side.
  14. I see that in the catalog now. The tall spats are an 1 1/2 inches taller than the ones on my car. It looks as though they changed the length and width in 1996.
  15. The short spat is for the offside and the long spat goes on the drivers side (right side for those of you with unconventional steering:)). The left rear wing of a Caterham has the bottom cut short 2.25" for rear exit exhaust.
  16. West Marine has the stuff. Here -Bob
  17. Mazda, Here's an idea. http://www.colehersee.com/04resource_Productinfo/infoX_Bus00.htm These gadgets are similar to the high end power distribution modules used in real race cars. Still pricey, but 1/3 the cost of the offerings from Motec, Kronenberg, and Stack. I'm not sure what data buss protocol the Cole Hersee units use. The 'spensive PDMs use a CAN buss.
  18. Not sure where the term originated, but I've heard it on numerous occasions; "there's no substitute for cubic inches."
  19. One thing to note here in regards to the R500; The R500 never had a Cosworth engine in it. CC used another supplier since the inception of the Duratec R500. (Caterham Powertrain ?) The difference in HP has to do with the higher RPM it achieves through it's short stroke. It's only a 2.0 liter engine. I don't know how or what Caterham is supplying for engines for the R500 in the US market.
  20. bsimon

    Spam posts

    uhh, Joseph E. Seagram & Sons. 1857?
  21. Actually, I'm a Septic. I was exposed to many endearing British terms by my ancestors. Reading in the loo is a pastime enjoyed by most cultures. I know that it's expanded my education excrementaly... The new missus limits my resources to 10 or 12 periodicals these days. Too much clutter I'm told.
  22. Bog Browsing? I can't seem to get through the stack of Racecar Engineering and Road & Track that's accumulating in the WC.
  23. David, Start with talking to the agent that carries your current tintop insurance. Most of the big name carriers have collector car insurance available with replacement valuation these days. It may actually be cheaper than going to specialty companies as you will get the mult-car discount. The larger companies use Hagerty, Zurich, and Grundy to underwrite their collector policies. Progressive and State Farm are examples. I use Progressive. If that doesn't work go to Hagerty or Grundy.
  24. Another 7-ball gear lever knob! Excellent choice. I've had people look at the billiard ball and ask me if my car has a 7 speed... Car looks great. Bet you can't wait to give it some welly on the open road. You mentioned that all the ally is anodized. Are the body skins anodized as well? How'd that work out while riveting them?
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