bsimon

John, It looks as thought the relay does not have contacts to disconnect the alternator. This setup would work OK as a battery disconnect, but not as a kill switch since the alternator will still power the ignition after the battery is disconnected. You could add an additional smaller relay for the alternator.

:thumbs: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1251424246_IMG_1300.jpg :jester:

Here's the build manual

Make sure you align the disk with a pilot tool or an old input shaft before bolting up the pressure plate. If you don't, the clutch plate will be off center just enough to keep you from getting the transmission to slide home into the bell housing.

An older image of the "real" Mark III http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1202579135_Beau.HazelGrinsR500.jpg

LMU3 looks to be a Lotus Mark III or Mark IV. Maybe not the original but a good facsimile thereof.

Thanks for checking Seth. I may still want a complete diff to rebuild when I find a lowered geared CWP. that way I could keep my original intact for later use. Send me a private message with an idea of what you might want for one of those diffs.

Hi Seth, Don't pull them apart. Just turn the input shaft and count how many turns it takes to make one complete revolution of the output splines. I may be interested in the housing as well.

Not common, but maybe someone has a 4.10 or 4.44 crown wheel and pinion sitting around that they no longer want? I know can get a new set from Kam Diffs for an extravagant price. -Bob

Been using Solidworks since version 2001 for product, and injection mold design. Naturally, Seven parts get some significant development time on Solidworks as well. The current project of interest is a dry sump tank for Tom M's Cosworth/Duratech narrow chassis Caterham. We're fitting the tank around the passenger's extended footwell. I think you'll really enjoy learning Solidworks. If you have any stumpers, please feel free to bounce them my way.

Amazing results Neil, congratulations! I'll send you Dave's e-mail addy via private mail.

Skip, I'm not sure what the schedule is this weekend. Connie had relatives in from the Midwest for most of the week. I figure I'm owed an extended kitchen pass for the weekend. I'm just not sure when the diplomatic time to execute that leave might be yet. :blueangel: I was hoping to shoot a round or two of sporting clays sometime this weekend too. I'll be up by 8 bells tomorrow. After I log the morning watch, I'll let you know when I can get to Jeff's. It may be on the way back from shooting. I gave Tom the wheel speed sensors today. I understand he'll be plugging along on the new car all of the weekend, regardless of who shows up.

Skip, The differential pressure gauge I have is scaled at +-15" of water. Bob is correct. We need something that measures in the 0-1" range. Let's fabricate a u-tube manometer by gluing some clear PVC tube to a board. We're not concerned with actual numbers, just relative changes in pressure from place to place on the car. I had to miss work yesterday with some medical issues. I believe the speedo sensors should have been delivered in my absence. Tom M. is stopping by today to pick up his six speed and bell housing. I'll make sure he gets the sensors. Maybe I'll see you this weekend at Jeff's.

As I recall, Mike had sliding draft gates on the inside of his footwells to stop ingress of water during wet sessions and cold weather. I would imagine those vents had to be ducted between the side skin and the footwell skin. From a aesthetic standpoint, the scoops should be painted the same colour as the side skins, or maybe even carbon weave. Those tip out persplex vents are burned into my memories as I spent quite a few hours getting rather green in the back seat of my father's 7CAB Citabria as a kid. I think the exercise was to see how swimmy eyed Bobby could get before spewing a frozen-reheated FBO sandwich onto the carpet, but I digress... The vent provided a cool change of perspective to the unwilling victim of the back seat during aerobatic maneuvers. Dad, can we go back to the airport now?

Hmmm, Must be a 5-10" gauge, not 50-100". Will look tonight.

Saw these on Mike Biddle's Caterham RST V8. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/751266918_scoop.jpg

Skip, I have a Magnehelic differential pressure gauge, ranged either 50" or 100" H2O (can't remember off hand) that might give some insight to pressures around the engine bay. You might be able to find some innocuous location on or about the body panels or bonnet that produces a large pressure differential. I'll loan you the gauge the next time I see you. There was a discussion on BC a few years ago about extracting air from the engine bay. One individual propped open the back of the bonnet with good results as I recall. Although probably not practical, or at least not very aesthetic, it proved there was an abundance of heated air waiting to escape the engine bay. Also there was a thread on high pressure in the prop tunnel. Go for a drive without the tunnel cover and you'll see what they're talking about. Here's one idea; The propshaft tunnel seems to have high pressure from all sides. The engine bay, open bottom, and rear suspension area. If one could get it to flow somewhere, it might extract the engine compartment. The air flow under the car effectively boxes in the bottom as though a panel was riveted in place. Somehow the rear suspension bay and wings create a high pressure zone that locks air in the prop tunnel. I believe the back of the tunnel needs to be sealed and ducted into a low pressure zone, or better yet, create a low pressure zone in the rear suspension bay. I wonder if a combination of rear diffuser and blanking in the chassis bottom might work to create a low pressure zone under the suspension. There would be some small amount of aerodynamic benefit as well, not big mind you, more like putting wheel pants on a dumpster...

I hope those instructions can help you sort your porous head problem. I understand this is the technique that Swindon used on the General Motors heads they sourced to Caterham for the Evolution series upgraded HPC engines. Most of the Swindon Evo engines used Cosworth heads, but later ones used GM heads once the supply of Coscast heads dried up. Have a look here for some more information on repairing porous GM heads.

Use the private mail feature and send me your e-maill address.

No problem Skip, Just out of curiosity, did your friend come into direct contact with the Wink mirror during the shunt or was he hit with flying glass projectiles from the mirror as it disintegrated? I'm asking because I have a very large Wink brand mirror in one of my everyday vehicles. Maybe it's something I should be concerned about.

Since the mirrorsforsevens panoramic mirror is my product, I feel it appropriate to address a couple of points about automotive rear view mirrors and tempered glass. I am not posting this as a solicitation for my product. If I am crossing any lines here, I encourage the site administrator(s) to promptly remove this post. The mirrorsforsevens product does not use tempered glass. Most original equipment manufacturer's rear view mirrors do not use tempered glass. The windscreen mirror supplied by Caterham is not manufactured with tempered glass. With a few exceptions, most after market rear view mirrors do not use tempered glass either. For that matter, the windscreen in your car is not tempered, however the side and rear windows are. The problems with glass shards being liberated in an impact are generally handled by using an two-sided adhesive tape or polymer substrate to keep the glass fragments in place after breakage. This is the method used in the mirrorsforsevens product. Windscreens use a similar approach by laminating untempered glass on both sides of a plastic sheet. This plastic sheet also provides a barrier to prevent ingress of flying objects and egress of human bodies in an accident. The reason that tempered glass is not used is purely optical. The surface of tempered glass becomes wavy and rough during the tempering process. When the reflective coating is applied it amplifies the optical irregularities in the surface. This problem becomes more pronounced with first surface mirrors commonly used to prevent glare from the headlights of following cars. I do not know what type of glass is used in the "Wink" brand mirror so I cannot comment on the incident Skip is referring to. The mirrorsforsevens mirror is not a "Wink" brand mirror, although it uses a similar multi-panel technique to provide a panoramic view. As for Rob's concern about glare from following cars; The mirrorsforsevens panoramic mirror does not have any anti-glare properties. It is a simple second surface mirror similar to those provided by Spa Designs and others. Although I find the glare factor at night to be acceptable, some people may not. Since most of us drive our Sevens during daylight hours, the intent of the design was to make daylight driving safer and more enjoyable.

James, If you send me you e-mail addy via private mail, I can send you Word.doc instructions on fixing the porous XE head. At least you could show it to some local shops and see if they want to tackle the job.

Rod, There is a plastic ball screwed to the end of the ARB. The ball fits into a tubular housing welded to the upper A-arm. Since the ball is free to slide axially within the tube, it gives length compliance as well as radial compliance to the bar end.

Most Caterhams built in the Zetec era have a steering column lock. Some owners have removed the lock or not installed it. For taller people, there's an interference issue with the lock and your right knee. Give the seller a call and find out if it's been removed. That being said, Buy a AAA towing policy, pack your cell phone, and drive it home. The worst part will be trying to wipe the silly grin off your mug at the trip's conclusion.

Skip, I finally heard back from APT gauge. Their expertise is somewhat like mine on the subject of inputs for the Caerbont gauges. "try this, if it doesn't work, try something else." "everything will interface to the gauge, eventually" The good part is they do know that AC sine wave signals (VR sensors) work with their speedometers. The input needs to go to pin 7. Since the VR sensor generates it's own tiny AC voltage, only one side of the sensor goes to pin 7, the other to ground. :thumbs: Since the VR sensor produces such a small voltage(1-2vac), electrical gnomes might be able to get inside the signal cable and create havoc with the digital circuitry inside the speedo. The sensor leads may have to be screened(shielded) from the sensor end. Probably not. -Bob