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Have you ever tried RT615s on a heavier car? Say a Mustang?

Lets make it shorter since there are a lot of cars that don't have this much room. Besides, "shorter is lighter"...or was that "length doesn't matter" As long as it's still under 95dB at WOT.

Are they any good? The price sure seems reasonable. Vehicle is an 86 SVO Mustang, mildly warmed over (chipped, 22lbs boost). I don't need the ultimate in grip, just something that's reasonably priced (cheap) for darting about town. The car doesn't see many miles, so longevity isn't a big concern. Any other brand suggestions for cut-rate stickers in a 245/50-16 size?

Welcome Jeff, Any input you might have to this discussion would more than likely be received graciously. Just a few things you should probably know about Seveners and their thoughts about exhaust cans; 1) Weight is a big concern. The typical Seven weighs in under 1300lbs. Ideally we would want a zorst to tip the scales under 1 lb. Obviously, this is not a practical vision and more than likely a complete fantasy. That being said, if you could offer something under 10lbs., we'd probably be rather content. 2) The 95 dB limit at WOT raises it's ugly head at many track venues. More and more tracks are adopting this standard everyday as urban crush encroaches on our hallowed ground. 3) Many of these engines pump great volumes of gas. High RPM and/or ported heads play a great part in maximizing horsepower from these pea shooters. Engine builders tend to use rather large pipes (2"-3") for the typical 120 cubic inch engine. On most cars, the entire exhaust tract is under 6 feet long from exhaust port to the tip of the blewey pipe. There's only about 30" of space in that tract reserved for a can. On some cars, a more elaborate 4-2-1 collector systems may limit this space to less than 24". 4) Cost is a big concern as well, although I'm sure you've heard that before. There are great exhaust cans available from the UK that meet these requirements, but most of us are a bit reluctant to shell out 900 clams for a stinking muffler. I know it sounds like a big order, but we'd certainly like your input and suggestions.

I fully agree. most of the baffled or split flow mufflers attempt to mix sound waves traveling different distances to cancel each other out. The internal distances are tuned to cause this canceling effect at the loudest part of the noise frequency spectrum. This all sounds good on paper, but as the frequency spectrum of a engine is rather wide, lots of sound at the un-tuned frequencies still escapes. If you want quiet without backflow restriction, it takes a packed/wrapped type straight through muffler with lots of internal volume. To get below 95DB WOT at 50ft. with a big exhaust flow engine (Duratech, VX, ported Zetec, etc.) count on using 2-3 feet of 7" zorst packed with e-glass.

Before supporting or refuting any hypothesis deemed to be "scientific", one should probably read this and have a basic understanding of these. :deadhorse:

I especially like the "roadster at speed" piece with the slanted wheels. He captured the nuance of the focal plane shutter in sculpture. Brilliant!

Interesting artistic talent here.

Shopping trolleys with four casters are easier to parallel park! :leaving:

Hi Gert, FWIU...3DS Max is a raster visualization format. There is no vector information to convert into real CAD data. The best you can do is to convert into other raster formats such as .jpg, .gif., tif, .bmp, .wmf

Back to the drawing board. BAT no longer has springs. They had a disagreement with their supplier. By looking at the price structure I imagine the supplier was Faulkner in the UK. I guess I'll have find something else.

New Kent blocks, made in USA by Ford.

Actually, I'm only changing out the fronts. That would only be 450 extra pounds. No wait, the old ones were 175lb apiece. I'll only be gaining 100 lbs....

Didn't Westfield already build a coal burner sometime back? I don't know if it ever made it into production. As I recall, it had a Pilbeam designed ultralight composite chassis and enough batteries to light up a good sized casino.

I'm looking for a set of 225 lb springs for my '94 Caterham chassis. As it works out, 7" seems to be the right choice for length, leaving plenty of range in the spring adjusters. I've made new conical damper eye seats to use more common 2.25" formula car springs. Dampers will be installed upside down. Problem is, all the usual suspects (Eibach, Hyperco) don't have 7" springs in the rate I need. 6" seems to be the only thing they offer. I can go to 170 or 180mm X 60mm springs, but they're over $120 a pop. I noticed British American Transfer (BAT) has exactly the right parts in their FF catalog. Quite good pricing as well. $40 each. Has anyone had any experience with BAT springs?

A dog box is a transmission with no balk ring syncronizers. The hub faces have simple dogs that engage with the gear sets. This allows the fast clutchless shifts you see in the video. In septic vernacular, they're sometimes called crash boxes.

Kent block, dog box, and clamshells...Impressive! :hurray:

It depends on the design of the coolant passages in the head. Some engines do use the heater circuit to effect flow in certain areas. Most modern designs have eliminated this method of cooling for reliability reasons. Some newer designs bypass the rad internally when the 'stat is closed as well. A good rule of thumb; If the original heater circuit uses a 3 way bypass valve, chances are the engine needs that circulation to cool something that might be vital. If the heater valve is a simple throttle, the engine probably has properly designed internal passages that preclude the need for external circulation. As always, check with a reputable builder that is experienced with the particular prime mover in question.

Derek, Bring the "old guy" along. I'm sure he'd get a kick out of seeing all the fine English motorcars pi$$ing oil in the grass. I'll throw a mirror in the boot for Sunday.

Yes Luke, come on over to the dark side... I never could quite understand the logic of having a heater in a 200HP Seven. It's like installing a cab heater in a steam locomotive. :ack:

I won't be along for the Ride on Saturday. Just the show.

This weekend. http://www.thecoloradoconclave.com/ For newcomers; there is usually a section for Caterhams & other Sevens, next to the Loti. Ask at the sign up table. BCNU

http://www.taylor-race.com Good folks to work with.

Ferodo DS3000 Short warm up, great modulation control, fantastic disk life. Be forewarned, the squealing and night time fireworks do take some getting used to.

The type 9 will grind from 1st to 2nd after very little fast shifting if the 'box has the OEM ratios. Even the long 1st (2.83) BGH 'boxes will start to grind if you fast shift them 1-2, although they do so after a longer interval of time. The 2nd gear syncro can't handle the differential in shaft speed if the shift is made before the engine looses it's inertia. That's what creates the gold dust looking stuff that collects in the gearbox sump. My VX lump was particularly bad as the flywheel weighed 26lbs. That's probably why cars like mine were normally spec'd with a close ratio gearset (2.04 1st).