xcarguy

Installed oil / air separator: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23806

Great 'track beast' photos! :cheers:

Another 7 owner and I have discussed the possibility of doing a track day together next year at Barber. Anybody know what it would take to get a dedicated 7 day at the track?

Attachment is much better. Thanks for sharing. I'm corner weighting my Stalker this evening. We'll see how it goes. :smash: :deadhorse: :seeya:

I heard from Glen Minehart today. He told me Brunton Auto is preparing an all new web site and thatvut will have a new Stalker forum.

Okay, I was finally able to post a new thread using Google Chrome. The new format apparently doesn't like my current version of Internet Explorer. :cuss::bs::banghead:

Well, if I wasn't confused, I certainly am now. :svengo: This is what I see on my PC when I first open Groups: :deadhorse::deadhorse:

I can't post a new thread, reply or anything else.

My computer also. Won't do squat.

For those of us who are loooong-time yahoo groupies, this is killerrrrr!!! This USA forum is great (love it!!!!), and serves a great purpose, but the Stalker Groups forum had tons (years) of useful data (tech files, etc.) for both new and long-term owners! And now . . . well!!!! :banghead::banghead::banghead: Aaaaaaahhhhh!!!!!

Oscar, Glad to see you got her home. Thanks for posting the photos. And welcome aboard.

Gale, If you want it to, the tranny will shift very fast, especially well above 6000rpm (6500 for me). Day and night diffenence in this tranny and a stock TKO . . . very pleased and money well spent.

Any Stalker owners on here besides me who absolutely hate the new Groups format? I can't access S#!T !!! :cuss: :banghead: :bs: :svengo:

Gale, Had a TKO600 built for track use by Liberty Gears. If interested, here is there site: http://www.libertysgears.com/

The clunky metal sound during the gear changes is the faceplating modifications on second, third and forth gears . . . kind of sounds like two hammers competing for the first blow with each change, especially when shifting at low rpm's. :smash::smash: Cresson on the 14th will be the truth-teller for the mic and its location.

I still have the R1R's but they are 15" and won't fit the 'look' of the WCM fenders. Sending you a pm.

I believe Steven Gines is the Stalker owner in Utah.

Bloodnok, Welcome aboard! :seeya: Please repost your arrival and new car in the Members Rides section of this forum.

Had a Birkin; lug bolts in the rear. Changed them to studs. You'll need screw-in studs

With the wheel setting outside of the fender, have you checked to make sure you won't have fender/tire interference (rubbing)?

Just went out to the shop and confirmed my suspicion; my 10" wheel is 11" wide overall. On the opposite side of my 4.5" BS, I have 6.5" of wheel; 11" total.

My rear fenders are 12" wide. As for the discrepancy, wheel widths are actually measured (I think) from wheel bead-to-wheel bead (the inner side of each wheel where the tire actually mates to the wheel. Therefore, a 10" wheel (with lip or bead roll, for lack of a better term) may be closer to 11" wide overall. My 10" wheel, for instance, with its 4.5" BS and -25mm offset would then make sense (lip or bead roll equal to approximately .5" So, .5" BS + .5" lip = 1" or 25.4mm, hense the -25mm offset.

Here are the specs for my wheels I use for track day events. The back spacing is 4.5" (4.5" measured from the outermost inside-rim edge of the wheel to the wheel mounting flange). With a 10" wheel, this moves the mounting flange of the wheel .5" off of the wheel's center (.5" toward the inside/back of the wheel). However, the advertised offset is a -25.00mm. One would think the offset-with a 4.5" backspace-would be a -12.7mm, not a-25.00mm. Hmmm. Just to clarify, wheel offset is the measured distance between the wheel mounting flange and the wheel centerline (positive to the outside and negative to the inside). Here is the link to my wheels with advertised measurments: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-571-5161ps

Okay, I'll ask the first question, what is the purpose of the one inch spacer? Would it not be simpler to just remove the one inch spacer and use the zero offset or am I missing (probably am) something.

Can you load photos of the diff/ball joint area?