xcarguy

Tap into an existing brake light wire...easiest course of action.

Rookie scammers. :iamwithstupid:

Try the iDashboard app.

Mike, Thanks for the morning read. The Charlotte Craigslist ad has scam written all over it. $16,400 advertised price along with the ‘copy and paste’ description containing a $44,950 price; offered at $44,950 in the Hemmings ad.

Tom, Just so you’ll know your not alone, I was having electrical issues (low voltage light coming on and voltmeter dropping to zero). Took the long way around to discover the alternator was fine (maybe loose ground light; fixed itself once I took off and reinstalled alternator) and the voltmeter was bad. Live and learn.

Days off worked out with fellow pilots and home office; NJMP is a ‘GO’. The Barber HPDE allowed for a bit more sorting of the Storker. Been trying for the past two weeks to do corner weighting, but I can’t seem to stay home long enough to get it done. Tom, I trust your track day went well. Looking forward to chasing ‘old yeller’ or ‘orange crush’ around the track. :auto::auto:

Nice job bringing the car back to life.

Russ, I’ve held on to very last trying to align family commitments and work schedule for the Gathering. However, it’s just not meant to be this year. And it’s soooo close to me. Maybe next year. Shane

3M. Available at O’Reilly.

While I may not be able to go to Spain, I can drive my Storker in the south where Spanish has become a second language! :jester: Great photo!

I'll have the Huevos Rancheros...but make those eggs over medium, thank you! :drool:

If the issue is recent, then yes, I’d cut open the filter and check for metal. My best guess is the bearings are wearing.

Kitcat, in rereading this thread, I have to ask; has your track oil pressures always been in the 35-45 range following warmup? If so, I’d might try using the lower viscosity 10W40 per jfgw’s suggestion and see if pressure picks up following warmup. If you did this and, pressure drops, then bearings are very suspect.

Starting to sound more and more like bearing wear (too much bearing clearance, time for replacement). However, with that being the case, I would first change to a higher viscosity oil (using a lower viscosity oil at this point would most likely result in an even lower oil pressure after warmup) and record the pressure during startup and again with the engine up to operating temp. After that, let’s revisit this thread. Fluctuations in pressure may not be as great, but will most likely still be there. If oil pressure still isn’t adequate after using a higher viscosity oil, and I were going to then pull the pan and dig out the pressure relief valve, I would think about going ahead and replacing rod and main bearings while I was there. If you did a top end rebuild, I’m assuming you replaced cam bearings.

Kitcat, Aaeration is normally associated with a higher than normal oil level; excessive overfilling, which results in the engine crank actually making contact with the oil in the pan during rotation. Think of whipping up egg whites with a mixer as an analogy. But I don’t think this is your issue since quality engine oils will contain an anti foaming additive that dissipates the bubbles. As for checking for aerated oil, check the dipstick following a drive. If you have bubbles on the dipstick, you have aerated oil. The aeration itself doesn’t change the oil properties (damage oil viscosity), but it can cause a loss of oil pressure at the bearings (where oil pressure is produced) due to air rather than oil finding its way between the bearing surface and the metal component (rod, cam, crank bearings). If aeration is an issue, the first bearings to wear/fail will most likely be the rod bearings (they take a downward pounding with every power stroke). Having said all this, I’d see what oil pressure is now (using your current viscosity oil) given the warmer temperatures that are rolling around with May vs. the colder temps of March and April. As a side note (comparing apples and oranges here, but....) I have a 5.5 qt. oil pan and run 6 qts. for track events along with a 3 qt. Accusump system. In addition, I run an after-market oil pan baffle along with a crank scraper/windage tray combo, designed to prevent/minimize/maximize: - baffle: uses a series of trapdoors to maximize available oil for the oil pump sump to pickup and distribute -windage tray: minimizes oil-to-crank contact (keeps oil in the pan/ baffle which, in turn keeps oil available for the oil pump sump) - crank scraper: removes (scrapes) excess oil from the crank allwing it to migrate back to the pan - all work together to minimize/prevent aeration/oil starvation thus maximizing available oil (theoretically, results in consistently good oil pressure)

Kitcat, A few thoughts/considerations: worn bearings (rod, main, cam). Any/all will cause a reduction in oil pressure. Clogged oil filter. Oil viscosity. It’s possible to use too high of a viscosity (oil too thick, can’t flow fast enough to create sufficient oil pressure; keep in mind here that oil pressure is produced at the bearings, not by the oil pump). Temperatures come into play on this one; thick oil + cold temp = possibly lower oil pressure. Worn/leaking pressure relief valve. Aerated oil. Foaming. Tiny bubbles. Worn oil pump. A couple of questions: What viscosity oil were you running prior to 20W50? Are you getting any valve chatter (indication of lifters not filling with oil)?

Very long story with many unhappy endings, mine being one of them. Search posts for TMW and see what you find.

Stewart, Glad to hear recovery went well. Sorry to hear you are selling your Cat. My vote is for the the current lump; 1740cc BDA. Can you posts some pics of the car?

Chris, I'm sure Cat owners will chime in,but I’ll start from a perspective of someone who runs race seats (Ultra Shield) in his car. My car is street legal, however, I drive it less and less on the street. Some of the reasons are: I have a full cage and it’s a hassle to climb over everytime I get in and out of the car. My race seats are a very tight fit; great for track duty, but not so much for long road-going trips. While I’ve installed aviation foam (1” thick firm in the bottom and 1” thick medium at back) that adds to the comfort/safety of the seat, it’s still not as comfortable as a street oriented seat. Just as the roll cage, the six-point harness is a hassle for street use. Again, all these features are great (necessary) for a track oriented car, but the trade off is long term comfort and overall dual purpose usability. If you are going to use your car primarily for street use, I’d spend the money to have the existing seats recovered. You’ll be money, and comfort, ahead.

Using all rubber nuts at this point will most likely be the easier route.

I dint trim mine. Used the rubber nuts all the way around (uniform). I also used fender welting in between the Fender and the body panel.

Bravo! :hurray: Congrats, Croc. Look forward to flying (opps), I mean ‘seeing’ the car. :lurk:

Chris, The nut will compress on the back side when bolted in place (see photo). As for the thickness of the flange, you can always reduce the thickness with an xacto knife. Part number 93495A310 provides a thinner flange, however, it is for thinner material (see photo).

In adding to the thread’s momentum, plans to attend this year’s annual USA7s festival are moving steadily forward in my household. Still have to align the planets with work, but it’s looking promising. Here in the deep south, the jaunt northeast has morphed from my singularly joining likeminded track enthusiasts for another amazing NJMP HPDE outing to family vacation/adventure. Thanks to Croc’s help, we (the wife, kids and I) were able to secure a full villa trackside at Thunderbolt. This should up the ‘first impression’ ante with the family for hopes of a future return. Even my mother-in-law is flying into Philly and coming over. Now, let me say this about my wife’s mother; she’s not your typical mother-in-law. And I mean that in positive way. Since her retirement in 2008, she has traveled abroad around Europe, taken introductory flying lessons, bungee jumped from some insanely high bridge in New Zealand (something not even I would do) and hot-lapped Texas Motor Speedway at 160mph. Like I said, not typical. However, I’m certain that while we are boring holes in the wind with our Sevens, her and the gang will be shoehorning in visits to the Jersey shore, wineries, etc.; new adventures in a new location. And none of them would hesitate to get on track if given the opportunity (all have done laps at a HPDE, including my daughter, the youngest of the clan). As for the Storker, it’s fairly well sorted after two earlier HPDEs this year (VIR and Barber) sans some ongoing suspension tuning/tweaking; but this really never stops. Since I managed to knock off (destroy) the front aero wing at VIR when a cone sacrificed itself as I exited turn 7, I added a new wing (the Storker’s third) and built a spare for those ‘just in case’ moments. Who knows, the spare wing may come in handy if Croc decides to show me a quicker line with the new RS. That’s the latest from my end. Looking forward to coming up and having some long awaited and anticipated fun with everyone. To making a few more new memories. :cheers: :seeya:

Tom, I failed to disclose that Croc and I are co-driving. I’m bringing the plow. :jester: