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xcarguy

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Everything posted by xcarguy

  1. Okay, Duane, Any word yet from down under? :bigear: . . . . . . . :lurk:
  2. Looking forward to your results. :cheers:
  3. If Denver pops up on the radar, I'll give you a shout out.
  4. Thanks. :jester:
  5. . . . . . :iagree::iagree::iagree: Once I started doing track events, I noticed 'hood venting' during high speed runs at the rear of the hood where the hood lip mates up with the scuttle; this issue has been beat to death on the Stalker forum, but thought I'd through it on the table here. To initially overcome this issue, I simply taped up the hood scoop opening which resulted in no hood venting. However, it did result in a slight increase in operating temps on track, but not to the point of overheating. The tape also had a nasty habit of separating itself from the car under speed (see video link below). This led to several hood mods (see link below) and a few test hops (some still pending) to find a two-fold fix; a) stop the hood venting (primary) and b) maintain additional under hood airflow (secondary). The end result was a hood with: • a dual NACA vent just forward of the hood scoop opening to allow for additional under hood airflow (works great); • the hood scoop opening blocked off (closed off to the relative wind); and • a reverse NACA vent, two louvered vents and row of small round vents located in the rear of the scoop . . . all for the purpose of air evacuation. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=26697
  6. Z, Great to see some feedback, especially from an M-Spec owner. You will only get faster. :jester: You'll be faster (less distracted) with the wind screen. I ran at Cresson with and without a windscreen; lots of buffeting there without something to help deflect the wind up and over your helmet. :iagree: Ditto on both. Dang it, Scott! :toetap05: You'll be faster in the corners and will be able to put more power down sooner out of the turns. With my move from a square setup running 10.7/21.5-15 (21.85" dia) to a staggered setup running 10.0/23.5-16 front (23.6" dia) and 11.0/23.5-16 rear (23.5" dia), my sustained cornering G force increased from 1.2 to 1.5. subtle, this is very interesting. Sounds like you and degoetz are locked (sorry for the pun) on to something regarding the power assisted brakes and front wheel lock up. degoetz is running a smaller 9.5"w x13x 20" tall tire vs. your 23x9.5x15. You say you are locking up late (end of braking). Touch base with degoetz and see where is is locking up under braking (early, late, etc.) and compare notes. This info could be very beneficial to power-braked Storker owners. On the street, I consistently see 180 (highway cruising) with no fan running/needed. 210-220 on track seems normal. I basically had the same 'sitting still' issue with my small 10" puller fan. I now have both the small puller and a larger 15" pusher fan installed. I also use a 22psi radiator cap. I have no overheating issues. With the pusher fan installed, I hardly ever use the smaller puller (just peace of mind). See this links for fan and rad cap: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6858&g2_page=2 Nope . . . . You're sharing valuable Storker info. :cheers:
  7. Newtons' law (lessness). :jester:
  8. How has this not shown up here? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YCeIgt7hMs
  9. Madness! Just pure madness!
  10. This photo has been on the Birkin Australia web site for a few years: http://www.birkin.com.au/image/2091/motorsport3 http://www.birkin.com.au/image/2092/motorsport4 You may contacting Birkin Australia for info: http://www.birkin.com.au/birkin-dealers.php
  11. Two clamps on the roll bar. Both are Longacre products. One is to hold my helmet when strapping in or getting out. The other (located behind the mirror) is for the steering wheel, but can also be used for a pax helmet if need be. I learned the hard way regarding the use of a helmet hook. I was strapping in for a session and had my helmet setting on the scuttle. After getting strapped in, I reached for the helmet and succeeded in pushing it off the scuttle and sending it rolling/bouncing across the grid . . . Nothing I could do but watch.
  12. Hehehe . . . . . love it. Some sticky Micky's and launch right at the end of the last yellow and . . . . :party: Mike, If I can ever get out to Denver to hook up, I hope it's on a weekend so we can hit the drags. Watching your vids brings back a few good memories of Baileyton, Alabama. . . . . :cheers:
  13. . . . . . . . :ack::willy_nilly:
  14. I'm running roll cage mounted side mirrors and a roll cage mounted rear view mirror: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=27443 The rear view mirror is a 17" Longacre unit with short brackets: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/Longacre17InchMirrorKits/Longacre_Mirror_Kits The side mirrors are originally designed for the sand rail industry and are just about bullet proof. The mirror housing is rigid mounted with the mirrored glass adjustable independently of the housing. A couple of sources: http://www.blackrhinoperformance.com/Products/Trophy-Side-Mirror__CON150525.aspx http://www.appletreeauto.com/VW-EXTERIOR/AFTERMARKET-MIRRORS/
  15. So, is the straight six is now mentally competing with the Busa V8? . . . . When's the install? :jester:
  16. jevs, I'd like to ‘very respectfully’ caution you on using the Kirkey 41700 seats. As you already know from researching seats, the 41700 is designed solely for drag racing applications; straight line acceleration and positive longitudinal G forces with no lateral support above the rib cage (at the shoulders). Again, if you plan on tracking this car at all, trust me when I say you will want good above-the-shoulder lateral support in the turns beyond what the 41700 will offer. Essentially, you’re putting a straight-line seat in a car designed to turn left and right with great authority. When I’m on track, my straight-axle dinosaur is capable of pulling 1.5 G’s sustained in turns and has, per data logging, hit in excess of 2 G’s. Under such conditions, shoulder support is a huge plus, especially after several minutes of high performance driving. Have you considered something along the lines of the 47500 or 47700? As for tweed vs. vinyl; I’ve used both. Open top, no AC; I can’t scream loud enough TWEED!!!!!! :cheers:
  17. Could this possibly be the car? http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=30&highlight=2000+birkin
  18. . . . . . . . :drool::drool::drool:
  19. Thanks! . . . . . . . I do like that forum name. :cheers:
  20. Ouch! And that's a somewhat optimistic price.
  21. jevs, Cerainly enjoying your (and toedrag's) build. I run the Ultra Shield Rally Sport; good all-around seat for the money. Where I to build a new Stalker today, these are the seats I’d use. However, this is one of those areas where you need to get what YOU want depending on the car's primary use. My car has migrated from mainly street driving to mainly track, so the Rally Sports serve me well. For long distance cruising (which I don't really do much of) they aren't the most desirable, but for the track, good bang for the buck. Whenever I decide to do a few highway miles, a small seat cushion goes along way. My Rally Sports are rigid mounted and sit atop two rectangular tubes that have been welded in place (laterally) on the steel tube frame; the forward seat bottom is bolted to one bar and the other is there for peace of mind as the only other thing that separates my ‘a$$’ from terra firma is a thin piece of aluminum flooring. A mounting tab is welded in place for the back to mount to. The link below pertains mainly to seatbelt mounting, but the photos also show where/how the seats mount. Having said all of this, if you plan on tracking the car at all, get a track-worthy seat with good lateral support for G-loading in the corners . . . . You’ll want that. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=21959 :cheers:
  22. I don’t think Suave would take too kindly to being strapped to the hood . . . again. :jester: I tried that once, but as I sat him on top of the Lotus badge, his tail feathers caught on fire and his head spun around uncontrollably. :devil: He has since expressed an interest in something a bit less stressful, like parasailing behind the non-existing Storker on the straight at Lightning. :jester: Besides, if I cover up the badge, nobody would talk about it. :smilielol5:
  23. Tom, Just for you, pal. :smilielol5:
  24. I agree, LED's should illuminate heat and vibration issues.
  25. jevs, Just some FYI you may want ahead of time; I used the chrome bullet type on another car I built and had trouble out of them from day one. The problem was three-fold: the lens actually melted from the bulb heat in two of the lights; the bulbs burned out in all the lights in a very short while (I think this was more due to no vibration dampening as replacements didn't resolve the issue); and the lens-to-body fastening was cheap at best (seemed more like an after-thought). As for the black housings, I like that look better, but still have concerns about no vibration dampening. . . . . . . :svengo:
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