BruceBe

This stock order is now ready for pickup at the factory. It can come to us, or, you can build it yourself and save on some shipping. All the details are on our inventory page, HERE. It's a nicely optioned 420R SV with additional touring features. For a self-build, there's plenty of time to have it on the road next spring. We dynamically price, based on transacted exchange rates, on all ordered kits, to provide the best value to our clients. Thanks to the latest Brexit confusion this week, the exchange rate has drifted favorably for us, putting the kit in the $48K (+shipping) range. Best contact is info@beachmanracing.com Cheers, -Bruce

This kit is now sold. Going to a great owner, who looks to be building it as a family project. -Bruce

Croc posted a very accurate summary. As an addendum, US dealers have recently received ordering information for the new Super Seven 1600. Our inventory of in-stock and available kits/rollers on order can be found HERE. Cheers, -Bruce

To route and confidently secure the hose, you'll likely need more access than what removing the tunnel top will provide. In the past, in a CSR, we have managed to remove the tunnel side panel on the driver's side. Once that was done, we could remove the driveshaft, and then install a new hard fuel-line in the tunnel. It's a grunt, for sure. Croc is right about the hose - even fuel-rated hose has permeability over time. The newer SAE specs (J30 R7) can handle the ethanol that is found in most fuels now, and promises better permeability performance. I would consider a hard line in the tunnel, flared for -6AN at both ends. Then, to integrate with the undoubtedly barb-connected stuff in the engine compartment and back at the fuel-tank, consider using Earls new Vapor Guard line of hose and fittings. The product is specifically designed for user-friendly install, and solves the sweating fuel problem. The system offers fittings (including barb-to-AN), and specific smooth-bore hose clamps for their fittings. Cheers, -Bruce

You want to set the drop-link lengths with the car loaded (on its wheels), as raced. This will prevent pre-loading the bar. Starting with both links disconnected, connect one and then adjust the other to slip right in. We do this on turn-plates, to ensure the car is completely settled on the suspension. Assuming you've had the car up in the air to remove the links, just roll it forward and backward a few times, for at least 2-3 tire revolutions after putting it back on the ground. Ideally, adjust the link lengths such that the angle between the link and the bar is perpendicular. There will be compromises here. I believe there are thin flats on the link stud, such that you can hold the stud while loosening the nut. You'll need a tappet wrench for that. Cheers, -Bruce

Just curious - how much bump travel was that? -Bruce

A couple of quick ones: 1) Tractive want that controller at the mid-point between the front and rear axles. Mounting in the engine bay will not accomplish that - good decision. 2) You might want to rotate those front dampers - the suspension is currently at full-droop, and those banjo fittings are already rather close to the central frame member. I'd rather have a bit of contact at full droop, which involves forces associated with the mass of the suspension/wheel components. As currently positioned, if contact is made under full *bump*, the forces will be much higher, and effectively bottom the suspension on the loaded corner. That will cause infinite spring rate, overload the loaded tire, and result in an immediate under-steer situation. There's no easy choice on the packaging, since those fittings are located in a poor position for the CSR. Cheers, -Bruce

It's all about minimizing unsprung weight. Please describe how fluid is "sloshing". Foaming is caused by cavitation and heat. Cheers, -Bruce

The weight distribution argument, with respect to putting power down is valid. One is a rear mid-engine car (Atom), and the other is a front mid-engine car. I would guess that the Westie's lower tendency to over-steer has more to do with roll-couple distribution, and managing weight transfer due to driving style/skill. The biggest speed part in a car is behind the wheel. Cheers, -Bruce

I'll echo Croc's comments about S3 vs SV vs CSR. On the same day at the same race-track in competition, a CSR is far more composed than an R500 Duratec, at similar lap-times. I believe that the SV and CSR are "faster" than the S3 chassis due to this composure - it's just more difficult to click off consistent fast laps, in race traffic, when all that "milking the cow" is going on through the corners. The SV benefits from the slightly increased wheelbase and wider-track - once it hits the limit, the dynamics are similar to the S3 - the limit is just a bit higher. The CSR is a different beast - it feels like a more modern car. Once a CSR takes a "set" in the corner, it's easier to maintain composure, apply power, and keep mechanical grip. Indeed - aero/download cars are a different beast. They are often over-sprung when not "in the air". As a result, they can get a bit twitchy and/or wash-out in slow-speed, tight corners. However, well-designed download cars are an experience from another world, once the aerodynamics are functional. It *is* a driver challenge to become confident, competent, and fast in a download car. Lovely stuff, if you can invest the time and get comfortable with the very dynamic handling characteristics. -Bruce

Hello everyone, The title says it all - Caterham UK is now shut-down until at least April 14th. As everyone is hunkered down, whittling away on their Sevens, know that we still have the lights on. Cheers, -Bruce

Thanks everyone! We'll continue to add items to the store, almost on a daily basis. And as store activity and budget allows, we will continue to grow our parts inventory here. Nonetheless, even if we must go to the UK for in-stock items, batching multiple client orders together will almost always yield a shipping savings, which will be passed along. Cheers, -Bruce

Hello all, After many months of preparation and investment, we are proud to announce the first online Caterham parts store in the USA. Organized by category and vehicle system, the online store will continually grow to encompass virtually anything that is part of a Caterham Seven. In addition to factory parts, the online store will also feature upgrade parts to enhance the performance, reliability, appearance, and overall Caterham Seven ownership experience. All performance upgrade parts have been tested and proven by Beachman Racing, under racing conditions. We have been steadily investing in our parts inventory for some time, and will continue to do so, to better service USA owners. As a result, we have rather large and/or heavy parts in-stock and ready to ship. Examples include front/rear wings, fuel tanks, wheel axle-shafts, nosecones, windscreens (every model/finish), wheels - the list goes on. We’ve also focused on maintaining a stock of consumables (wheel bearings, brake pads/discs, wiper blades, etc), as it’s always the week before the track-day, race, or weekend excursion when parts are needed most. While we continue to build-out the store, some of our parts are not yet online - so please send us an email if you can’t find it, we probably have it. As a full-service online store, credit cards are accepted, and two shipping couriers are currently offered (USPS and UPS). Depending on activity and demand, we will grow the payment and courier options moving forward. This is an exciting next-step for Caterham support in the USA, and we hope the community embraces the utility and convenience it offers. This will allow us to further invest, to ensure that the vast majority of available parts are a click away, priced in US dollars, and immune to the unpredictability of Customs clearance. You can find the Beachman Racing Caterham store at www.beachmanracing.com/store. For enquiries regarding parts not yet placed in the online store, please contact us at info@beachmanracing.com Cheers, -Bruce

That would seem to be a very unique combination of cars. Unbelievably, I know someone else who owns a Samurai, an M400, and an S1. Cheers, -Bruce

6 of 9 remain available, prepped and ready to go at $35K. Pick a color :-) Cheers, -Bruce

Ok Greg - it's been a long rainy weekend. Perfect weather for some build progress...let's see it :-) Cheers, -Bruce

Toe is not the problem. With MikeM's car, it involves caster, and the fact that he has an "Autocross" steering rack fitted. It is a super-quick ratio, so mechanical advantage is much lower. I've always thought that car could be faster at the limit with a less aggressive steering ratio, since the effort would be lower to maintain just the right amount of slip-angle with steering corrections. Cheers, -Bruce

Some of that hose will be used for oil-breather routing in dry sump applications. It will become obvious once you get into it. Cheers, -Bruce

Hey Paddy! We do tend to bring in the roller-barrel upgrade without the cams (R400 upgrade), but alas, we did not bring that kit (or the R300 upgrade) in with this last container. We already have a new parts order being built now... Cheers, -Bruce P.S. Paddy may hold a world record for the quickest kit assembly. I don't recall exactly, but he seemed to knock it out in a blink of an eye.

Yes - the famous "shortages" box. In some cases, it's more than one. If you can't find it in the appropriate box - immediately go to the shortages box(es). Generally, these are items that were OOS during the first pick for the kit. Also - for US-spec cars, ignore all references to "IVA" in the assembly guide - you won't have the parts anyway. Cheers, -Bruce

The engines are purchased and imported separately, but associated with the kit - not individually available. If you are looking for a new Duratec build, we'd be happy to help. Cheers, -Bruce

You didn't waste any time! To others: note that Caterham now fit the windscreen and the full weather-gear as standard with kits. This is a somewhat good idea, since the gasket for the base of the windscreen requires patience to correctly fit (heat is involved, and to avoid paint damage, a second set of hands is a requirement), and correctly locating the side-screen hinges so that everything indexes and seals to a nicely-stretched top is another task requiring care, as it is all VERY visible. Greg - this is a great community of owners. Welcome aboard! Cheers, -Bruce

Hello all, This *KIT* is now on the ground, and remains available. Embarrassingly, the original documentation on this order erroneously referred to it as a "roller", hence the confusion. This is an incomplete vehicle KIT. The original post has once again been corrected. Cheers, -Bruce

All good points. I mentioned this forum to him a couple of times. I'll go ahead an email him a link :-) -Bruce

Glad you made it out for the party! And I can say with confidence that the owner group out here was impressed that you made the trip, and demonstrated your 8th-degree black-belt in everything Caterham :-) Cheers, -Bruce