BruceBe

Larry - thanks so much for the kind words. If I correctly recollect, that CSR could be the last factory *260* imported into the USA. Croc is right - it became possible to order the CSR chassis once again, but only equipped from the factory with the 210HP 2.0L. So, I guess you're both right. Take the winter to eat well, exercise/rest, and reconsider the self-imposed ultimatums. Of course, if I can be of any help, please do not hesitate to reach out. Cheers, -Bruce

Thanks to all with experience on this in CA. Clearly, Caterham Sevens are delivered as kits, and have an assembly manual. Tom - you might be on to something with the pre-built Hillbank approach. I've always winced a bit, when they put together demonstrators like that. Cheers, -Bruce

Thanks guys. Not a lot of 6-speeds running around. Cheers, -Bruce

How many folks are currently running the Caterham close-ratio 6-speed, or would be interested in a Caterham 6-speed if it were available? We're currently evaluating our investment level, in supporting this gearbox moving forward. This is the Type-9 derivative, not the newer Mazda-based gearbox (5-speed). Cheers, -Bruce

Sounds like a good idea for extending reach and awareness. It's also encouraging that the approach and guidelines for the use of those two additional outlets still retains a center of mass here on the forum. IMO - that part is important. Cheers, -Bruce

Mark 2 Golf. -Bruce

Well, there are a bunch more pins on the CSR tach. In the end, power, ground, and a tach signal make a tach a tach. What year is the chassis? Armed with two sets of schematics, and pins/shells from Caerbont, one could probably get most, if not all chassis side features working on the new tach. Cheers, -Bruce

VW produced a lot of cars over the years.

We have both of these tachs (58055 and 71261) on the shelf. I'm a bit surprised that the 71261 you have is 2-coil, but, there are clearly multiple generations of these tachs. To be specific, we have the 58055A, which is the current CSR tach listed on the UK website. You can always reach us at info@beachmanracing.com Cheers, -Bruce

Spindle is now a custom AP part, as of 2015. It's important to note that *all* car manufacturers utilize an outsourced supply-chain, as it is less profitable to maintain the design/implementation resources in-house. Most of those custom Titan and AP parts were specifically designed for Caterham, to their specifications. Pop quiz and a gold star to the one who correctly identifies the interchange on the CSR rear brake caliper (Croc - give them a chance). Cheers, -Bruce

You're welcome :-) Cheers, -Bruce

Craters/shippers have been notified - this one's coming up to Seattle. Many thanks to everyone who expressed interest and support. And I dare say, Seattle is starting to become a decent locus of Seven ownership. This year, we've got new representation in Seattle x 2, Woodinville, Redmond x 2, and Kirkland. Vroom, vroom! -Bruce

Yogi had a good collection of seats to check out today: 310S SV with leather seats 620R S3 with carbon Tillets G7 SV race car with the FIA Tillet "Big boy" XL seat CSR race car ("Catzilla") with standard FIA Tillets Cheers, -Bruce

Wow Bob - I should put you on the marketing team :-) I've been slow-rolling the pickup on this kit at the factory, but I'm guessing my excuses will be exhausted sometime this week. If you live closer to England than Seattle, and are thinking about a self-build, I believe there will be time and money savings. Cheers, -Bruce

Price on this kit is now set, at under $49K + shipping. The kit is still in the UK, so a drop-ship can be arranged. Cheers, -Bruce

Thanks - gearbox is the new Caterham 5-speed. The only 6-speed option is the sequential Sadev at this point, as the bespoke Caterham 6-speed is discontinued. While the car looks attractive in black, we chose the color based on input from our local body-shop. For those wishing to change the color, black is a good starting point. For dry-sumped kits, we offer professional assembly services at $7K. We will be settling with the factory over the next couple of days, so pricing will be fixed at that point. Then we'll have a few days before locking-in on delivery to our facility in Washington. Cheers, -Bruce

This stock order is now ready for pickup at the factory. It can come to us, or, you can build it yourself and save on some shipping. All the details are on our inventory page, HERE. It's a nicely optioned 420R SV with additional touring features. For a self-build, there's plenty of time to have it on the road next spring. We dynamically price, based on transacted exchange rates, on all ordered kits, to provide the best value to our clients. Thanks to the latest Brexit confusion this week, the exchange rate has drifted favorably for us, putting the kit in the $48K (+shipping) range. Best contact is info@beachmanracing.com Cheers, -Bruce

This kit is now sold. Going to a great owner, who looks to be building it as a family project. -Bruce

Croc posted a very accurate summary. As an addendum, US dealers have recently received ordering information for the new Super Seven 1600. Our inventory of in-stock and available kits/rollers on order can be found HERE. Cheers, -Bruce

To route and confidently secure the hose, you'll likely need more access than what removing the tunnel top will provide. In the past, in a CSR, we have managed to remove the tunnel side panel on the driver's side. Once that was done, we could remove the driveshaft, and then install a new hard fuel-line in the tunnel. It's a grunt, for sure. Croc is right about the hose - even fuel-rated hose has permeability over time. The newer SAE specs (J30 R7) can handle the ethanol that is found in most fuels now, and promises better permeability performance. I would consider a hard line in the tunnel, flared for -6AN at both ends. Then, to integrate with the undoubtedly barb-connected stuff in the engine compartment and back at the fuel-tank, consider using Earls new Vapor Guard line of hose and fittings. The product is specifically designed for user-friendly install, and solves the sweating fuel problem. The system offers fittings (including barb-to-AN), and specific smooth-bore hose clamps for their fittings. Cheers, -Bruce

You want to set the drop-link lengths with the car loaded (on its wheels), as raced. This will prevent pre-loading the bar. Starting with both links disconnected, connect one and then adjust the other to slip right in. We do this on turn-plates, to ensure the car is completely settled on the suspension. Assuming you've had the car up in the air to remove the links, just roll it forward and backward a few times, for at least 2-3 tire revolutions after putting it back on the ground. Ideally, adjust the link lengths such that the angle between the link and the bar is perpendicular. There will be compromises here. I believe there are thin flats on the link stud, such that you can hold the stud while loosening the nut. You'll need a tappet wrench for that. Cheers, -Bruce

Just curious - how much bump travel was that? -Bruce

A couple of quick ones: 1) Tractive want that controller at the mid-point between the front and rear axles. Mounting in the engine bay will not accomplish that - good decision. 2) You might want to rotate those front dampers - the suspension is currently at full-droop, and those banjo fittings are already rather close to the central frame member. I'd rather have a bit of contact at full droop, which involves forces associated with the mass of the suspension/wheel components. As currently positioned, if contact is made under full *bump*, the forces will be much higher, and effectively bottom the suspension on the loaded corner. That will cause infinite spring rate, overload the loaded tire, and result in an immediate under-steer situation. There's no easy choice on the packaging, since those fittings are located in a poor position for the CSR. Cheers, -Bruce

It's all about minimizing unsprung weight. Please describe how fluid is "sloshing". Foaming is caused by cavitation and heat. Cheers, -Bruce

The weight distribution argument, with respect to putting power down is valid. One is a rear mid-engine car (Atom), and the other is a front mid-engine car. I would guess that the Westie's lower tendency to over-steer has more to do with roll-couple distribution, and managing weight transfer due to driving style/skill. The biggest speed part in a car is behind the wheel. Cheers, -Bruce