RossD

If the sequential gear box is a Quaife, then yes. Taylor Race has a price of $875 for it: http://www.taylor-race.com/items.cfm?category=Transmissions&subcategory1=Quaife&subcategory2=Quaife%20Parts&subcategory3=Quaife%20General%20Parts And maybe another $329 for the sensor. Edit: Thinking of a potentiometer attached to the 'drum' with some relays set to pop at specific rotation of the pot to illuminate a number of LEDs corresponding to the number of gears could work. I think...but I'm no electric engineer.

I have been looking for a DIY solution for a dry sump for the zetec. I havent figured out the specifics yet but I do have general plan. Leave the zetec pump to provide oil pressure to the block, but pipe a new pick up to a bulkhead fitting in the aluminum oil pan. The steel pan will be even with the alum portion. For scavenging, I found that the duratec has a chain driven oil pump and could probably mounted and run off the front of the engine. This mostly just back of the napkin thinking right now... Armstrong dry sumps have a nice kit

The "normal" kent block newly available from ford is $1299, while the lotus block is $1599. Pegasus is probably selling the kent version. I dont know the difference.

Drive down to your local Ford dealership and pick up one of these: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12181

I would argue that swapping from a xflow to a Zetec can be cheap if you don't mind doing your own work: *The only reason to swap bellhousings is the relocated starter on the Focus Zetec. If you ignore that, you will just have one bellhousing bolt not lining up with the block. (I believe, the Zetec (ZX1) from an early Contour/Mystique has the standard xflow starter location) *You'd have to figure out an oil pan modification by adding wings or just buy an ARE drysump system with pump. *If you kept the wet sump, you'd have to knock off the portions of the ally cast sump on the Focus' Zetec to allow for the standard xflow starter location. *Reuse xflow starter, flywheel and clutch parts. *There are manifolds for DCOE for the zetec and then you could keep the fuel system intact. Or run a factory Ford EEC or megasquirt. Either way (carbs or FI) you'd need a computer system to run the ignition so you might as keep it FI. I bet you could get a Zetec running in place of a xflow for around $1500-2000. The nice thing is while you're saving money and finding parts you are still driving the xflow around. Guestimations: $250 junk yard Zetec (what I paid) $656 drysump system with pump (http://www.drysump.com/price.htm) $200 for Megasquirt and misc wires (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-programmable-efi-system-pcb22-kit-black-case-p-128.html) $105 electric high pressure fuel pump (http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/2225/10002/-1) Total: $1211 Add in all the odds and ends and we get to $1500 to $2000 (Modify your wet sump oil pan yourself and save a portion of that.) I would agree, however that a xflow to Duratec swap would be quite expansive as you would need a new bell, clutch, flywheel, and the intake and exhaust are on opposite sides...

I picked up a Zetec for $250 for a junk yard. From what I've been hearing getting a set of ITBs, a nice exhaust header, tune, and cams should get you to 170 hp pretty quick. I weighed it complete from throttle body to exhaust mani with no accessories hanging off of it and it came in around 250-260lbs. I believe there was some fluids in it but probably not full, and it had a automatic flywheel attached still. Since I found this site through the Locost side of things, that a pretty good deal since I picked up a trans to bolt to the engine for $150. Now if I had some more cash to throw around, a Duratec would be my pill of choice. Hell, if Megasquirt 3 can operate direct injection and VVT, I'd get the turbocharged Mazdaspeed3 engine (stock 263 hp), since it's the same block as the Duratec.

I had a dead fuel gauge in a '53 CJ-3a (6 volt to 12 volt conversion done wrong). Since the tank was under the driver's seat, I could drive and shove a stick in the fuel tank while I was driving to check the level. A wet stick meant more driving! (I was 16 years old at the time, cut me a break!)

http://www.taylor-race.com/framedmap.cfm?drawing=sierramap&category=Transmissions&subcategory1=Quaife&subcategory2=Quaife%20Parts&subcategory3=Quaife%20Sierra Taylor Race is located in Texas and I've heard good thing about them. They show a 7" input shaft and a 8.25".

Since no one is chiming in, here are some of my guesses: Any chance the starter is from a Contour/ZX2/Focus? Either that or a xflow from 1978-1980 Fiesta, early Pinto, early '70s Capri. A starter from a 1.6/1.9 liter CVH Escort might work too.

http://www.gapmiatas.com/ Miatas at the Gap! I'm not going but would love to make it some year.

I've heard good things about http://www.taylor-race.com Maybe give them a call and see what they suggest (ie. new or rebuilt box). They are in Texas so that won't help your mechanical problem.

What year is your car registered as? Could you argue that it's grandfathered in?

Neat picture. Can you identify the specific makes of the sevens for us?

I'm using my new to me '91 Miata as a finacial stepping stone until I can pull the trigger and purchase a Seven. Although I'm hashing out a 5.0 swap in my head at the moment. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/media/img/readerrides/IMAG0095__t352.jpg I drive it like I stole it and I still get at least 28 mpg.

I should add to my previous statement: "I think..." or more appropriately "I'm guessing..." -Ross

I found this on CL; no affiliation: http://montgomery.craigslist.org/ctd/2413135052.html Lotus Super 7 - $11,255 (Montgomery) This little Lotus was professionally built by Champion Motorcar Company in 2001. It employs a very reliable and upgraded Toyota Carolla T-3C motor with Weber carburetor, headers and racing cam. The suspension was also upgraded in 2003 by Champion Motorcar Company using Mazda RX7 components, custom coil over shocks, and tubular A arm suspension. The car has been carefully stored since then and used only about 4 times in autocross events. This little Lotus has lots of power and handles like a shifter kart. You could have a great time in this street legal race car. For additional pictures and other inventory please go to mitchellclassics.com. For serious inquiries call 334-224-0337

You're too close with the sensor now and at the higher speed, it can't 'see' the difference between the highs and lows as well as it can at low speeds. Then the signal get interpreted at a going 0 mph. Or....the angular velocity of the wheel sensor and/or tooth count got past the limits of sampling the speedo does to calculate speed. Can you change the toothed part at the wheel?

Its a pre crossflow kent.

Closed at $11,200 with 14 bids.

I've heard good things about Megasquirt, and the online community is huge. Matt from DIY Autotune sells them, co-wrote a book about EFI, and is healthy contributor on Grassroots Motorsports' forum. Lots of options on amount of time or money you'd like to spend and what you want your end result to be.

If you change the 'K' at the end of the part number to a 'L', the block is setup for the Lotus head. Lotus Block: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12181 Kent Block: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12142 Valve Cover: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=12478 Ford gets it.

I'd have the block at least checked by an engine/machine shop. They can magniflux it to verify its condition and clean up all the passage ways by hot tanking it. At that point you might as well let them machine anything that needs to be done, but thats it. Then you pick up the engine and you build it. It makes sense to me, why get all new parts when the block you're sticking them in could be crap? It will probably make better use of the go fast parts as well. Just my opinion, YMMV

http://www.lotusowners.com/Miscpics/Type%209-Ngearbox.pdf Repair manual courtesy of LOONY Lotus website

http://www.merkurmidwest.com/catalog/c7_p3.html These guys have two on their site. I dont know anything about them though.

A normal Focus Zetec has the same type of returnless fuel rail. The older Zetecs from the Contours/Mystiqes have the 'usual' return style, IIRC.