blubarisax
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Everything posted by blubarisax
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So, I got the cams and MBE 9A4 ECU. The dyno results show 263 rear wheel HP in Dynojet numbers. So, if I assume a 15% drivetrain loss am I at 309 Brake HP??? Either way it sure sounds good! The tuner tells me that the Mainline dyno he uses is very conservative and to compare to others using the Dynojet numbers. http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/Dyno2_zps1f83363a.jpg http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/Dyno1_zpsf44bf560.jpg
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can't wait to see cousin John.
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Weekends are far better for me. Teackdaze is nearly identical to SCDA in tone. The weekend I attended last year was great. I think was the Saturday and Sinday before the Monday and Tuesday SCDA Seven event last year. By the end of the third day I was shot! If the main event were Sunday, people could have the best of both worlds. You can sign up for single days with both groups.
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I ran with Trackdaze last year at Lightning. They ran a nice event and it was not too crowded in the intermediate run group. I've marked my schedule!
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I'll be at a couple of NASA Northeast events at NJMP. (April 20/21 and May 18/19)
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Can't wait to see your new toy on the track (or street if we must).
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I'll be there with any luck.
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They have Michelin radials in 24/57-13, 22/54-13, and 20/54-13. The price depends on condition. 90% were 100€ and 70% 50€. Rain tires at 95% were 150€. Shipping is the killer. I have always got them with wheels or other parts.
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Tom is correct, these are 4x108 bolt pattern. The wheels are 8x13 offset 8 in the front and 9.5x13 offset 15.
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They are 8x13 fronts and 9.5x13 rears. If you want a set, I have room in the box for them. They are set to ship from Germany tomorrow.
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Used 90% slicks and new wheels. http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/image_zps285679b0.jpg
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No competition here! Just trying to compensate for my fears going in to the corners Croc style!
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Mike, I wanna see if you can get air in the Mustang! This is going to be exciting!
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I think we could help you squeeze a new Corvette LT1 motor in!
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Quick get them to the basement to keep them nice and warm
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I've got my fingers crossed!
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The operation was a success. http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/image_zps324d20f6.jpg
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Hey Boys, I am ordering some Michelin slicks, rain tires and BBS wheels from mog-racing.com There will extra room in the box if anyone wants to place an order and combine shipping to save a few dollars. They do have some fun go-fast parts!
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Good news, only two cam lobes needed additional clearance. So the grinder came out (sorry Croc) to take off a couple of millimeters in two spots. The head is off the car and getting put back together tonight. Just waiting on the uprated head studs and head gasket from Cosworth. As an interesting aside, the cam to cam bucket clearance was not as good as it should have been. With any luck the motor will be better than new soon.
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Thanks for the help guys, we are in! Filed the sides of the stud flat.
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Jon, Thanks for the tips. Hopefully we will get it sorted out tomorrow. Lots of work to do before getting on the track March 9 & 10.
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I don't want to have to remove the dry sump to get the stud out. This should have been an easy job. So, unless Cosworth comes up with another plan, I'll just cut a slot in the end of the stud and back off the nut.
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can't say that sounds good
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I like the slot idea of Martin. It seems the stud connects the dry sump to the front cover. I really don't want to pull the motor (again). Once the nut is off, there is not much room between the tube frame and the cover. Maybe just unbolting the motor mounts and transmission, then lifting the whole drive train up a little will give me room to get the front cover over the stud. Mike, your are welcome to come for a beer, but I am leaving the work to Radical Motorsports. I'm just micro managing!
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Martin, I'm hoping not to have to pull the dry sump just to replace cams!
