yellowss7

Thanks Jeff. I ran the mic across the top of the trans. up under the dash just ahead of the shifter, so i don't think wind was the problem, it just has really low volume, and poor quality. It came with the bullet cam and is part of the wires that connect to the bullet cam. Even in the house the volume is really low even with the video camcoarder volume up. I have seen video's with horrible wind noise so I know what you mean. Off to Radio shack. Tom

Fired up the Beast for the first time since Mid November and took it out for a nice Blat. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Thought for a moment that Al had jinxed me, it cranked over for about 10 seconds without firing up. Fired up on the next turn of the key. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gif Tried out the next Bullet Cam set up. Camera works great. But I'm not at all happy with the Sound quality. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gif Anyone have a mic recommendation. I'm using the one that came with the bullet cam system. But its not loud and sounds really tinny. Not even close to R1's example. Should I just get one that plugs into the Camcorder?? Tom

Ok Al,Lance, and any other 7 owners in the Philly area. The 2007 Philly Region SCCA autox season begins on Sunday April 15th at Warminster Community Park, which includes the old Airstrip on which we compete. It's a great venue with course length in the 50-60 second range for 7 type cars. It's only a few of miles off the Willow Grove exit of the Pa turnpike. Check out Phillyscca.com for directions, and other info. Hope to see more 7's competing this year. Tom

Al, I don't have a zetec, but I do have the Jenvey Throttle bodies and I find that to start mine up, I do the same with the fuel pump, wait until it stops, then when I turn the key I lighly feather the gas pedal to help it fire up. Has worked well for the past 7 years and I'm still on the orignial banner battery, and with a 12.4:1 compression ratio that's saying something! (I plan to get it out on Thursday or Friday as the weather forcast looks promising. I hope the 2 foot drift in front of my garage bay melts by then) Tom

Thanks for the Pics Al. I just hate drilling holes in my car.

Al, if you get a chance, could you post a photo of where the doors attach to the car? I bought a set of the same doors, but never put them one. Thanks Tom

Engine choice is wide open as long as it fits. You can bring engines into the US as Auto parts. Customs and the EPA are ok with it. However, you may be subject to your local state inspection regs. Tom

Thanks Bart. That's easy enough to test. I got that pressure from Michael Dougherty, he's using the same. I'll switch the springs once it warms up a bit. Anyone have experience with an adjustable front and or rear anti sway bar? I know Freestyle in the UK sells them. Thanks guys for all your suggestions, it gives me somethings to check at the next test and tune. Come on Spring. Tomyellowss72007-02-20 17:12:36

Birkin42, stock springs are 170 front 150 progressive rear. Yes currently stock. Front and rear swaybars are stock. Car handles great other than the roll. I could lower the ride height but since I'm only running 75mm clearance under the sump, I'm hesitant to go too low, since I do drive it on the street too. Tom yellowss72007-02-20 06:01:25

The original tires were Avon CR500's on 13 inch wheels. They are Radial design. The Slicks are 13 inch Bias design, that I run at 12-12.5 PSI. I seem to recall that the overall diameter stayed pretty much the same. Never had the problem with the AVONS, and the tail pipe was always oriented that way. The swaybars are the stock superlight set up. Green bushed 18mm up front and I believe 1/2 in the back on the front most setting.yellowss72007-02-20 05:16:09

I'm currently running stock Caterham springs and shocks with a wide track front end. After having George Alderman at Midlantic Caterham cornerweight it and adjust the toe and camber, the car handled really well, i.e. no understeer, and just a tad of power on oversteer. However, on Slicks, I find that the car does have a significant roll to it on hard turns. So much so that the side exhaust pipe actually scrapes the ground on hard right handers. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gif (See attached photo) I bought a set of 250 lb front springs to try out, but I know that if I stiffen the front up I will probably get more understeer. I could go to a smaller front anti roll bar but it's the roll I'm trying to limit. Any suggestions? Tom http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070219_165859_Copy_of_philly_.jpgyellowss72007-02-20 05:50:09

Chip Bond the Caterham dealer in Va. is very responsive. I bought a couple of rear wings from him and he only charged $7 for shipping and they arrived in 2 days. George Alderman at Midlantic Caterham is also a good guy, and I've also had good results with RMSCI. in Denver. Tom

Just had an order of parts shipped from Caterham and it too cost me about 41 pounds to ship. A couple of front springs, spark plugs and 5 oil filters. Not a bargain by any means. I had an engine shipped over and it was only 500 dollars shipping. BTW, I got charged $12 dollars Custom fees in addition to the shipping on the parts order. Tom

Sounds awesome, though I'm not sure that overdriving it like that is the fastest way around the course. But it sure looked like fun. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gif Tom

I'm not the one running a boat anchor up front. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cryin.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cryin.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Speaking of G's, in a couple of autox's last season, my codriver and I found ourselves out of breath at the end of a 55 second run. We're still trying to figure out why? Was it the g's from the hard cornering/braking/accelaration? or were we just holding our breath to brace ourselves against the pull of the harnesses? I like to think it was the G's http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom

Hey! Don't hate me because my car only has 197hp and only weighs 1164 lbs. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rofl.gif I was only trying to reply to the new guy's inquiry as to what to look for in a seven. Just didn't want to scare him off if he didn't go big. Even with a 150 hp these cars will outperform almost anything up to a Porsche Turbo or new Z06. Tomyellowss72007-02-14 16:05:59

Skip, Point taken, on the track the extra HP helps overcome the poor aerodynamics. Although you have to have pretty huge ones to keep the pedal down for long with 3-400 hp. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/yesnod.gif Tom

That kind of HP is probably only good if you drag race. I doubt very much that you could fit tires wide enough to hook up and as for the Turbo, I doubt that it would give any advantage in an autox. More likely it would be a liabilty. IMHO. Tom

How's the old classic... Life's too short to drink cheap wine. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gif Buy a 7 and you'll bring smiles too everyone you pass, except the M3 drivers. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rofl.gif Tom

Nah, don't bother dieting. You need the weight to get the rear wheels to hook up. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif Unless you're looking for top end terminal speed on the track, it's not an issue. Tom

When I ordered my Caterham, The Zetec wasn't standard, the Crossflow was but I wanted more power so the Rover K series, that was used in the UK was my choice due to the low weight (under 200 lbs) and the different levels of tune available. BTW total build time on mine was 80 hours, spread out obviously but the kit is pretty well put together and I'm no mechanic. The Ford Duratec looks like a good engine choice now with low weight and incredible levels of power available. On the subject of Power... Becareful what you wish for. I've driven a 135 hp Caterham that was much easier to handle than my 195 Hp beast. In autocrossing I find that the extra power can induce oversteer very easily if you are not smooth. The power is addictive for straight line acceleration, but that's not what these cars are all about. I went with the Caterham, but the Birkins I've seen are just as nice. Haven't seen any of the others so I can't comment. It's definately more cost effective to find a used one. But you are then limited to what's available and someone else speced. I'm 6'1 220 and fit very nicely in the standard body, but foot room is the limiting factor. That's where the SV is worth it. You can wear normal shoes, as opposed to having to wear dedicated driving/race boots.

I'll second the Kodiak wheels. Although mine are 13x10. Michael Dougherty turned me on to them. Tom

The yellow one is a Series IV Lotus 7. Fiberglass body panels. Also referred to as the dune buggy 7.

Red Baron, I showed photos of you XJ13 to a buddy of mine who has a 1937 Jag SS100 and he said if you ever decide to sell it he'd be interested. Let me know if you ever decide to sell. Tom