xcarguy Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Okay, guys. I know several of you, as am I, are using Wilwood brake assemblies on your cars. Earlier this week, while replacing the front pads, I decided to remove the dust covers for a quick visual (peace of mind) inspection. Even though I had (continue to have) zero slop in my assembly, I simply wanted a peak. The photos below are what I found. :ack: That sparkly stuff adhering to the grease on the cotter pin, the castle nut and the end of the spindle is aluminum shavings. :svengo: Those are also aluminum shavings in the dust caps, and were once part of the dust caps. It seems the cotter pins (both sides) have been rubbing against the inside of the dust covers since installation. Luckily, there was no damage other than the dust covers. However, bearings are being replaced for, again, peace of mind. My words of advice?......go back, remove your dust covers and check your assembly for cotter pin-to-dust cover interference…..just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Ouch! Not a good find although well done on being vigilant and awake to the possibility of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Thanks for posting. Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 On the plus side, it should resolve that pesky mystery scraping noise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 I think the friction is what kept me from running a 1:08 at NJMP. And I'm pretty sure that's why I kept having trouble with turn one. Wait! What's that smell . . . . It sure ain't break dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 It sure ain't break dust. Damn right! It must have been brake dust! :troll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Have I mentioned just how much I hate spell choke feature of the Bat phone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 ......and the fact that I delete articles in sentences? D)#% it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 The aluminum powder should make a good anti-seize additive to the bearing grease :smilielol5: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1Steve Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hi Shane, What brand of pads are you using and what compound. I'm due for pad replacement and have used Wilwood pads before. I would think it's time for new wheel bearings also. I also got caught up watching your in the wet videos you reposted from NJMP today.. big fun. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 The aluminum powder should make a good anti-seize additive to the bearing grease :smilielol5: Veeeery funny . . . . . . . :toetap05: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hi Shane, What brand of pads are you using and what compound. I'm due for pad replacement and have used Wilwood pads before. I would think it's time for new wheel bearings also. I also got caught up watching your in the wet videos you reposted from NJMP today.. big fun. Thanks. Steve, Running Wilwood BP-20 pads. Wilwood basically has three levels of brake pads; BP-10 (mainly street), BP-20 (street/track) and BP-30 (full blown performance pad). The pad o’ choice in the world of Wilwood-adorned Storkers is the BP-20. The 10 is pretty much worthless for serious high performance driving and the 30 tends to eat rotors (or so I’ve been informed), thus making the 20 a good, all around pad. My pads, after 8,000 + miles and two + years of track days, were right at 50%. Here’s my part number: . . . . :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMike Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Thanks Shane - I'll let you know what I find. I have about 3900 miles on my Storker now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedwagon Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hi Shane, What brand of pads are you using and what compound. I'm due for pad replacement and have used Wilwood pads before. I would think it's time for new wheel bearings also. I also got caught up watching your in the wet videos you reposted from NJMP today.. big fun. Thanks. This problem not directly related to Wilwood , but is a cotter key installation error and can happen to any spindle mounted hub that uses a key locked nut. And specifically for the superformance guys-- are you aware that on the early models the master cylinders were too large. This can be rectified by using s new 5/8' in the front position and switching the front to the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1Steve Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) speedwagon, Thanks for you input. I'm sure most of us are aware that this problem can happen on any car. I am aware of the master cylinders on the early cars. My S1 is at the end of the production run ,so I never had that problem. Edited December 19, 2014 by S1Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboeric Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Isn't this just the ghost of Colin Chapman machining away excess weight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Isn't this just the ghost of Colin Chapman machining away excess weight? So that's why my spare wheel bracket came adrift:eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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