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Alignment settings


CarlB

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Does anyone have some good track alignment settings for a wide track S3? I would be interested in everything. Ride height or rake, camber, caster, and toe.  

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@CarlBWas going to reply to this earlier but forgot

 

Here is what I have

 

"

Core components

Year 2002 imperial chassis with widetrack and K Series (140-145hp estimated), 6 speed box, 3.92 ZF LSD
Powerflex polyurethane bushes everywhere
Nitron dampers by Meteor Motorsport, re-valved early 2016, with Eibach springs

Setup

Weight (without driver): 520kg with approx. 20 litres of fuel, two thirds of a tank
Total weight: 580kg (yes I need to eat more pies)

Corner weights are set to equal diagonals which I prefer over equal fronts.

Front left: 128kg
Front right: 136kg
Rear left: 154kg
Rear right: 162kg

Ride heights (probably not a lot of value since I'm not sure where they're measured from)

Front left: 118mm
Front right: 118mm
Rear left: 134mm
Rear right: 132mm

Average rake: 15mm

 

Geometry

Caster: 7.2-7.4 (full forward on wishbones)
Front camber: -2.7 (I might increase this for track - one turn of the ball joint should be worth approx. 0.3 degrees)
Rear camber: -1.4
Front toe: 2mm in each side (this is for road only, I change to 2-3mm toe-out for track)
Rear toe: 2mm in each side

All of the above was with virtually new Avon ZZR tyres (185/55/13 front, 215/55/13 rear) set to 17.5psi

Tyre pressures: 20psi starting/cold pressure (all round)

Front roll bar: blue (9/16")
Rear roll bar: +2 (0 being disconnected, 4 being stiffest)

Radius arms set to lower position

Front springs: 225lb/in
Rear springs: 150lb/in (plus 4lb/in helper springs)
Front dampers: -8 from full hard
Rear dampers: -6 from full hard
"

 

And this from the assembly manual

 

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1 minute ago, CarlB said:

Thank you - Those specs are very helpful. Hopefully I can get the car aligned this weekend

For the record let me amend my statement.

 

When I say "what I have" I meant, what I came across online from somebody else.

 

I actually haven't done my alignment yet but I would have followed the two references I gave you myself. I have those printed as my guide myself. 

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I would be a little careful with the front toe out. Lots of people like it and you might. It makes the car turn in really quick. You need to be slow with the wheel and get use to it.

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Looks pretty good to me.  For track use lots of negative camber, positive caster, and toe out in the front.  Always slightly toed in in the rear. This is a lot of caster however and will increase steering effort.  When it says full forward on the wishbones....that should be the lower wishbones.  Top wishbones are pretty well fixed. The spring rates are a little light for serious track work but probably a compromise.  These tire pressures seem low but I'm not used to using these tires.

 

Two things people miss if the car is lowered very much for track use.

You need to put bump steer shims under the steering rack to offset the lowering.

You can't use toe plates to accurately set the toe because on most wet sump cars, the rear tape is deflected by the oil pan.

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Yes, it will affect the toe.  You are moving the upper pivot point of the upright out or in to change the camber, so the will affect the relationship if the tie rod ends to the spindle (and wheel).

Edited by dallasdude
clarity
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13 hours ago, dallasdude said:

Yes, it will affect the toe.  You are moving the upper pivot point of the upright out or in to change the camber, so the will affect the relationship if the tie rod ends to the spindle (and wheel).

That's what I thought but wasn't sure. I think some cars the camber can be changed independent of toe but not sure if it's actually possible.

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